Anyone else have this problem?

[Kenshin X]

yes yes i seem to be a tight azz but the new fluid is only 2 weeks old! :( that's why I wanna save it hehe :P

yeah 6.7L for the 2zzge. dw I use icecream containers for my business so I got plenty of clean ones to use ;) I just hope it wont get to a stage were I can get the ring off and new one on before the whole thing drains out :P ill take pictures for u guys to see if anyone comes past this problem in the future. just plug a plastic bag up there maybe :P

[Kenshin X]

great... none here in australia... they suggested to go to wreckers or bursons and match the o-ring to the original one. otherwise have to wait 5 to 8 weeks for a 4 dollar part from japan... ARGH! i pulled the plug out, it looks like its a bit difficult to get the old one off too :(

[CHA54]

go to somewhere like CBC bearings with the old one. a new one will cost less than $1.

[Kenshin X]

ok I got the new o rings from repco... now the problem I have faced is this. I put the fluid back in after filtering all the foreign stuff out and when I took it for a drive, it warmed up but at idle it gave this rough idling from 500-1k. it usually sits in the 800rpm range. when I hit lift the temp gauge went past normal operating temp and to 3/4 up to hot! I quickly pulled over and found that the coolant isn't circulating and the fan is constantly on. what have I done wrong? I reset the ecu already but coolant still not circulating? I only changed the o-ring andnow the thermostat doesn't work now? help! :(

edit: this are the o-rings i bought from repco.

the one on the bottom off the plug is the other size i got, however i was concerned it didn't cover the ridge on the plug like the OEM did so i got 2 thinner washers and put them in. when i put the plug back in, i felt a bit of a resistance as the plug got to the end. whereas the OEM o-ring didn't have a resistance at all (maybe its its worn in or something) as i took the plug off after the engine cooled down a bit, the hole sprayed out coolant as if there was some pressure inside the radiator and coolant wasn't going past the plug.

also i noticed that only half the coolant drained out (i checked the bottle mark and it was half full) would some foreign object would have gotten inside the coolant system?

[123R-Prozak]

you have a air lock.

[Kenshin X]

you have a air lock.

ok i just googled this up and understand :)

now i did ring up my mechanic uncle and he said that i have to let the heater run on 100% hot when i'm topping the radiator with coolant and the resevior on half full. So i did this and volla! there was some heat running through the pipes and through the heater core in the climate control and all was back to normal.

do i need to bleed the system further to prevent any "hot spots"? when do i know when to stop bleeding? i basically kept the metal cap off when i was refilling it and let the air find its way up and bubble and when that was all fine i replaced the cap back on.

after this i'm going to post a DIY up for the radiator coolant. learn something new every day... ^_^

[123R-Prozak]

should be sweet now, just recheck it later tonight, when cooled down, cap off, u might find its still all the way full, or slightly lower, top it up then thats it

[Kenshin X]

should be sweet now, just recheck it later tonight, when cooled down, cap off, u might find its still all the way full, or slightly lower, top it up then thats it

SICK DIY coming soon! ^_^

[CHA54]

to get the air out of ZZE's I jack the front up as high as my large trolley jack goes, then use a bottle with the base cut off jammed into the filler neck and run the engine up to temp to get the air out while topping the level up. the line to the overflow bottle needs to be clamped while doing this.

The filler point needs to be higher than the rest of the system to have any chance of getting all the air out.

Edited October 18, 2011 by CHA54

[Kenshin X]

to get the air out of ZZE's I jack the front up as high as my large trolley jack goes, then use a bottle with the base cut off jammed into the filler neck and run the engine up to temp to get the air out while topping the level up. the line to the overflow bottle needs to be clamped while doing this.

The filler point needs to be higher than the rest of the system to have any chance of getting all the air out.

thanks, i'll do this once i get my jack back :)

[iVaz]

Well, seeing as this is a radiator thread, I got A LOT OF collant fluid on the Inside of my Bonnet (If you lift the bonnet, there is a black mesh thingy that spans the entire bonnet on the underside of the actual bonnet metal) I have a massive streak line of Pink coolant?

And when I looked at my Engine, the only thing I can see is if I follow that line into the engine, it actually comes of the knob which turns something... (Sorry for not being specific, I'll take PIC when I get my car back) I remember I went to a mechanic, & even they COULD NOT FIND A SINGLE leakage?

Even my Family Mechanic, couldn't think what was wrong... He assumed it might've been the water pump, but when he looked at ALL THE HOSES, they were practically almost like brand new...

& I know I use A LOT of Coolant, my drive way has ZERO & I MEAN ABSOLUTELY ZERO marks of any leaking, does anyone know?

[CHA54]

check/replace the waterpump