Different fuels?

[mech81]

Hi guys,

I own a 2006 manufactured 2007 reg'ed Toyota Yaris YRS. I'm currently experimenting on the fuels I'm using as I found that my consumption was not very good. I was only averaging around 8L/100km with mixed city and highway driving. Lately, I swapped to both Coles express premium Unleaded (RON95) and now V-power (also from Coles Express) and found that at most I was getting possibly an extra 40kms more on a full tank which was disappointing.

My questions are:

1) Should I be swapping over to BP ultimate and avoid stations like coles express and Woolworth caltex?

2) Is the V-power fuel at coles express of lower quality than that of the non-discount shell stations?

3) what max PSI have u put in the tires to get better consumption but not badly affecting wear of the tyres

4) My car's odo is now around 17500km...should i be considering changing my filters (oil and petrol) despite my car not reaching the mileage due for a change (the dealers will definitely suggest me changing it when i bring it in soon for the 2 year service)

Thanks ahead in advance

[Kenneth.]

I have a 2009 model Yaris YRS (2008 Dec build), and I have only ever been running V-Power in it since day one. I get pretty decent mileage out of it (522KM on my last tank - that works out to be about 7.6L/100KM) for city driving. I also just had my first 1000KM service done (changed oil and oil filter). Hopefully I'll be getting slightly better mileage again out of this current tank.

I haven't tried BP Ultimate, so I can't comment.

[Keisari]

There's a few similar threads floating about. I believe the general consensus is that there isn't one - some people swear by certain premium blends, others say there's no difference.

In my own experience, fuels associated with shopper docket scams (especially Caltex) are the some of the worst. But the worst fuel I ever bought was E10 from a United. Off a full tank (46L), I only barely got 400km (my engine can take ethanol) and the performance was absolutely horrid. Normally I'd get between 600 and 650km.

I personally find that BP 91RON is great for my car, can't say anything about premium blends though. Shell is usually alright too, though I've had three bad batches from them in three years and only go there if I'm desperate. I had a bad batch from Mobil once, but I don't go there anyway.

As for your filters, if you've been following the scheduled services there's no need to worry yourself about them.

[mech81]

Thanks for both your feedbacks...I'll definitely try the BP 91RON and see for myself....

The thing with my filters is that I do pretty less than average mileage on my Yaris and I take it for a 6 monthly scheduled service as it says in the handbook..the 2 year scheduled service includes changing of filters which dont make sense if my mileage is below average...but knowing the dealerships they have an interest to suggest I change it...

I'm just wondering what was the consensus and whether I should ask them to change it only when I reach the mileage...

Just asking for the 2 cents

There's a few similar threads floating about. I believe the general consensus is that there isn't one - some people swear by certain premium blends, others say there's no difference.

In my own experience, fuels associated with shopper docket scams (especially Caltex) are the some of the worst. But the worst fuel I ever bought was E10 from a United. Off a full tank (46L), I only barely got 400km (my engine can take ethanol) and the performance was absolutely horrid. Normally I'd get between 600 and 650km.

I personally find that BP 91RON is great for my car, can't say anything about premium blends though. Shell is usually alright too, though I've had three bad batches from them in three years and only go there if I'm desperate. I had a bad batch from Mobil once, but I don't go there anyway.

As for your filters, if you've been following the scheduled services there's no need to worry yourself about them.

[Keisari]

They will indeed be happy to change them for you if you want them to, it's fairly cheap. It is conceivable that the fuel you've been getting is SO crap that it's clogged the filter, though they typically last much longer than the time you've had yours. It might be worth a shot. They might also offer a fuel injector clean, but this is $175, IIRC, and is almost certainly unnecessary at this stage.

Good luck!

Edited February 7, 2009 by Keisari

[david058]

They will indeed be happy to change them for you if you want them to, it's fairly cheap. It is conceivable that the fuel you've been getting is SO crap that it's clogged the filter, though they typically last much longer than the time you've had yours. It might be worth a shot. They might also offer a fuel injector clean, but this is $175, IIRC, and is almost certainly unnecessary at this stage.

Good luck!

I have always used Caltex Vortex except for the time they had a fire and I had to use regular due to Vortex shortage. On Vortex I get 19km per litre !.5 lit Auto) and when I put the regular in it droped to 17.5 on the same trip. Premium fuel in my opinion is much better the regular even from Woolworths. I even noticed a considerable drop in power the time I used regular fuel. It might cost more per litre but it costs less per km.

[Guest]

I always use BP ultimate, i find it give a good balance of power/economy.

[Noodle Boy]

i don't know if the performance of certain fuels in my aurion is any different to the yaris', but i would recommend you to steer clear of shell fuel do to its poor performance. i often get more power which may lead to better fuel economy using BP Ultimate or Mobil 98.

[Ronnyboy]

I use Vortex 98 in my Camry :)

[mr_grumble2010]

In our 91 Echo, (260,00km) I only ever use Mobil or Clatex E10, for me I find it gives the best economy and general feel.

I fill up on a weekly basis and will usually get 650-700km on an average tank (50km highway / 30km Syd CBD) ~5.5 - 6.0l/100km

I have tried Regular ULP and found the economy fell right off as well as the general performance. Premium, I can reflect both economy and performance figures when compared to E10.

I service my own vehicle and have tried different things to determine what impacts economy the most.

Surprisingly, I've found that a filthy Air filter (Ryco branded), gives very little, if no worst economy than compared to that of a new filter, just as long as the muck isn't penetrating through to the other side.

The main contributors, I've found that make the most significant difference in economy are;

1). In tank petrol filter - I've changed out 2 so far (approx 80k apart) and notice a significant difference each time.

2). Plugs - I change mine out every 20k.

3). Mass Air Flow Sensor - Grime builds up around the sensors, particularly the sensor that determines ambient temperature. The grime acts as an insulator, therefore shielding the sensor from the actual ampbient temperature. Result will be incorrect readings being fed to the ECU.

4). Throttle Body - Removal and cleaning the muck that builds up around the butterfly.

5). Injector cleaner - I don't use much of this due to the constant high speeds, however if your in traffic most of the time, excessive carbon build up occurs, then a bottle of this stuff yields an increase in economy every 20k or so.

Other factors like tire pressures make minimal difference and having them over-inflated, just makes the ride hard and will wear suspension components quicker. I have mine set at approx 35 PSI, anything more and ride quality just goes to the dogs.

Your driving style will probably be the biggest overall factor that's going to determine what economy your vehicle will achieve. I achieve good economy due to the highway factor and the time at which I drive in to work, however if the traffic is s**t, I would expect 8l/100km is what you'd have to expect, considering instantaneous fuel usage in slow, stop/start traffic would be upwards of 20l/100km.

Steve