Jump to content

Help with STOCK HEADUNIT!!!


Recommended Posts

Okay hey all, Today I decided to play around with stripping the dash of my car.

So I pulled the headunit out, took all the plugs out, and when I go and put it back together, (I put everything back, that was already attached when I first pulled it out) so my problem is, now every time I turn the headunit off, it doesn't show the clock I've noticed that today at night, when I had the headlights on, and pressed the power button (To turn it off) the headunit, the lights on the buttons still lit up, but the screen just turns dead off, normally it would glow orange with the time in the middle... what did I do wrong?

Please help, I donnu what I did wrong, nor where I went wrong.

Edited by iVaz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry to hijack your thread, i have a similar problem everytime i turn the car on and off the clock resets lol

for the ascents are the clocks inbuilt with the headunit? the clock works when the head units on?

did you cut any wires? maybe the ground wires not on properly?

Edited by tiet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have blown your constant power wire fuse. It should be under the dash, use a multimeter to check it.

you talking about ivaz?

if the fuse is blown there shouldn't be power running through it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


sorry to hijack your thread, i have a similar problem everytime i turn the car on and off the clock resets lol

for the ascents are the clocks inbuilt with the headunit? the clock works when the head units on?

did you cut any wires? maybe the ground wires not on properly?

Hey bro thanks for replying to my thread, I did not cut any wire, I only removed the three wires that were attached, the Antenna, & the other two, which were ALREADY connected, there was one cable which was not connected, so I didn't touch it.

I can't change the headunit to SHOW the clock, when I go INTO standby the screen goes blank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have blown your constant power wire fuse. It should be under the dash, use a multimeter to check it.

you talking about ivaz?

if the fuse is blown there shouldn't be power running through it?

Both of you. If the fuse is fine, both sides will show +12 to ground. If not, one will show +12V and the other won't show anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have blown your constant power wire fuse. It should be under the dash, use a multimeter to check it.

you talking about ivaz?

if the fuse is blown there shouldn't be power running through it?

Both of you. If the fuse is fine, both sides will show +12 to ground. If not, one will show +12V and the other won't show anything.

Where abouts under the dash? and WHY THE HELL IS IT SO HARD to detach half the stuff in the '08 Corolla Ascent Sedan? I swear, I felt like I broke everything, because it was so hard to remove the plastics...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

simple solution...

SCRAP THE $20 PIECE OF CRAP and buy a good aftermarket one.... :lol::lol:

p.s if there is no 12v constant to ur unit it will not work at all. tiet do u have to reset any other functions on the unit and is it aftermarket?????

But I like the current one, it's so simple, and well it works well.

If I was to get a aftermarket one, then I need to save money for it again, which I don't want to do :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clock mode turned off?

try pressing "4" and "SEEK ^" (seek up) to turn it back on

K i'll brb in like 2 minutes, i'll tell you what happens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DENNIS, I **** LOVE YOU MAN!!!

OMG!!!

Why isn't it written in the DAMN MANUEL! The Manual only says, HOLD "AM" to enter audio mode (I don't even know WTF audio mode is) --"

Thank you SOO MUCH Dennis, thank you, thank you, thank you so much! :)

Edited by iVaz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW One FINAL question, (I know I asked this before), but if i put a Line Level Converter, into the stock headunit, will it make my music quality suck?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW One FINAL question, (I know I asked this before), but if i put a Line Level Converter, into the stock headunit, will it make my music quality suck?

The line level converter will not put a noticeable load onto your existing speakers. With it in place, you wouldn't even know it's there.

What you put on the other side of it is what matters. For a simple subwoofer setup, the quality will be good enough for most people. With only the short range of frequency it needs to cover with the bass, and the fact that it is so low as well, you wouldn't really need to worry about the quality. If you are using it to feed amplifiers for replacement speakers however, there is the potential for it to sound not so great, but this all comes down to how good your ears are. Most people in general would not notice the difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW One FINAL question, (I know I asked this before), but if i put a Line Level Converter, into the stock headunit, will it make my music quality suck?

The line level converter will not put a noticeable load onto your existing speakers. With it in place, you wouldn't even know it's there.

What you put on the other side of it is what matters. For a simple subwoofer setup, the quality will be good enough for most people. With only the short range of frequency it needs to cover with the bass, and the fact that it is so low as well, you wouldn't really need to worry about the quality. If you are using it to feed amplifiers for replacement speakers however, there is the potential for it to sound not so great, but this all comes down to how good your ears are. Most people in general would not notice the difference.

Thanks, I only need to feed my sub, it's kinda weird thought, I got a 4 CH AMP, but am only going to use two channels for the sub --"

(Bridged 300Watt)

Thanks for the advice BTW, do you know where i can get REALLY REALLY CHEAP enclosures of the sub? Because right now, it's jsut sitting there with nothing...

Also, if I do wire my converter, does that mean I HAVE to cut wires?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice BTW, do you know where i can get REALLY REALLY CHEAP enclosures of the sub? Because right now, it's jsut sitting there with nothing...

Well if want a sealed enclosure and am not after anything that has been perfectly tuned, then you can pick up a box at Autobarn or the likes.

Also, if I do wire my converter, does that mean I HAVE to cut wires?

In most cases, no. The converter is installed parallel so simple wire taps would do, otherwise you can do what I did and mount it in the boot and solder the wires directly to the speaker terminals of the rear speakers... if you have speakers on your parcel shelf.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice BTW, do you know where i can get REALLY REALLY CHEAP enclosures of the sub? Because right now, it's jsut sitting there with nothing...

Well if want a sealed enclosure and am not after anything that has been perfectly tuned, then you can pick up a box at Autobarn or the likes.

Also, if I do wire my converter, does that mean I HAVE to cut wires?

In most cases, no. The converter is installed parallel so simple wire taps would do, otherwise you can do what I did and mount it in the boot and solder the wires directly to the speaker terminals of the rear speakers... if you have speakers on your parcel shelf.

What do you mean parallel? Like, If I buy the converter from Jaycar, how do i 'parallel' it? Obviiusly I know I gotta pull the headunit out, so i can do something... but i'm kinda lost now...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What do you mean parallel? Like, If I buy the converter from Jaycar, how do i 'parallel' it? Obviiusly I know I gotta pull the headunit out, so i can do something... but i'm kinda lost now...

As in you just 'tap' off from the speaker wires. The best way to think of it is with a good 'ol series vs. parallel diagram:

FUW8CIVFB0B2607.MEDIUM.gif

The diagram on the left is series, and the one on the right is parallel. Just think of your speaker as one bulb and the line converter as the other.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What do you mean parallel? Like, If I buy the converter from Jaycar, how do i 'parallel' it? Obviiusly I know I gotta pull the headunit out, so i can do something... but i'm kinda lost now...

As in you just 'tap' off from the speaker wires. The best way to think of it is with a good 'ol parallel vs series diagram:

FUW8CIVFB0B2607.MEDIUM.gif

The diagram on the left is series, and the one on the right is parallel. Just think of your speaker as one bulb and the line converter as the other.

Crap, does that mean I have to buy 4 line converters? one for each of the speakers? --" crap. I thought it would be easier than that...

BTW, all I need is to make the line converter just from the headunit, to the amp... how do I do that?

and thank you for your help, much appriciated.

Edited by iVaz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crap, does that mean I have to buy 4 line converters? one for each of the speakers? --" crap. I thought it would be easier than that...

BTW, all I need is to make the line converter just from the headunit, to the amp... how do I do that?

For your subwoofer setup you just need a basic line out converter. They come in a two-channel form. You simply connect two wires in parallel with one speaker, and two wires parallel with another. Front or rear; whichever one you use more on the fader control.

From the line out converter to the amp, you simply run RCA leads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crap, does that mean I have to buy 4 line converters? one for each of the speakers? --" crap. I thought it would be easier than that...

BTW, all I need is to make the line converter just from the headunit, to the amp... how do I do that?

For your subwoofer setup you just need a basic line out converter. They come in a two-channel form. You simply connect two wires in parallel with one speaker, and two wires parallel with another. Front or rear; whichever one you use more on the fader control.

From the line out converter to the amp, you simply run RCA leads.

Hold on, how do I know which one is the sub cable? Because I remember looking at the back of my headunit, it just has a **** load of rainbow colours...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hold on, how do I know which one is the sub cable? Because I remember looking at the back of my headunit, it just has a **** load of rainbow colours...

Um... the whole purpose of getting the line out converter is because you DON'T have a subwoofer output on your head unit. You will be using the line out converter to 'mirror' either your front or rear speakers and convert them into RCA connections that are compatible with your amplifier, then you will run the RCA leads to your amp an set the Low Pass Filter so that it will only play your bass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hold on, how do I know which one is the sub cable? Because I remember looking at the back of my headunit, it just has a **** load of rainbow colours...

Um... the whole purpose of getting the line out converter is because you DON'T have a subwoofer output on your head unit. You will be using the line out converter to 'mirror' either your front or rear speakers and convert them into RCA connections that are compatible with your amplifier, then you will run the RCA leads to your amp an set the Low Pass Filter so that it will only play your bass.

I see, so which wires behind the headunit is the rear speakers? Because I think I'm just gonna strip the wiring on the Converter, and plug it into the same wires... or I am very lost...

Honestly, is anyone in Melbourne who can help me? This is my VERY first time even touching a car's headunit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see, so which wires behind the headunit is the rear speakers? Because I think I'm just gonna strip the wiring on the Converter, and plug it into the same wires... or I am very lost..

If you don't get wire taps, then all you do is simply pull back some insulation on the speaker wires going to the head unit, then solder in the wires from the line out converter. Quite simple in that regard. Wire taps are easier though for most people. You find those at Repco and hte likes.

As for the wire colours, if you don't want to search for them yourself (a multimeter and 1.5v battery are useful at doing this), then you will need someone else who knows the wiring on the Corolla.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see, so which wires behind the headunit is the rear speakers? Because I think I'm just gonna strip the wiring on the Converter, and plug it into the same wires... or I am very lost..

If you don't get wire taps, then all you do is simply pull back some insulation on the speaker wires going to the head unit, then solder in the wires from the line out converter. Quite simple in that regard. Wire taps are easier though for most people. You find those at Repco and hte likes.

As for the wire colours, if you don't want to search for them yourself (a multimeter and 1.5v battery are useful at doing this), then you will need someone else who knows the wiring on the Corolla.

I'm looking at some line converters, and they come with colour wires too, don't I just put orange with orange, and red with red? or is that wrong too?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 1

      Drive shafts

    2. 0

      FUSE BOXES ALLOCATION - 1996 SUPER CUSTOM Model (Import)

    3. 10

      Vibration through body (not steering wheel) under acceleration

    4. 0

      possible fit 2015 kluger Grnde driver seat on 2019 kluger GX

    5. 0

      front brake calipers

    6. 1

      Drive shafts

    7. 315

      New to Toyota - 2005 Corolla Sportivo!

    8. 10

      Vibration through body (not steering wheel) under acceleration

    9. 0

      P0420 Catalystic converter below Thrushold

    10. 0

      Dashlight dimmer

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership