Removing intake Resonator... Silicon Hose?

[Andrew357]

Due to some... suggestions at the last Brisbane meet I am going to remove the intake resonator on my MCV36R Camry.

I'm still having a sniff around finding someone who is willing to do such a small job making a stainless tube (with barb) I might as well get the crap that connects the resonator between the engine + airbox.

The rubbery stuff looks pretty ordinary, so I thought I'd use some Silicon Hose to bridge the gaps and give the bay a little bit of flair.

The question is: There is alot of silicon hose out there, is there anything I should be looking out for? Or is most of the stuff out there good enough?

[STYLSH]

Any exhaust shop will be able to do this for you :)

[Andrew357]

Any exhaust shop will be able to do this for you :)

far out.

Went to a few steel places and they were simply 'too busy'.

Thanks man

As for the silicon hose, does it matter what brand I get?

[DJKOR]

As for the silicon hose, does it matter what brand I get?

Not really. It's not going to be taking boost or anything like that. For uses like this, whatever is easiest for you to get and suits your budget. You can get the ThermalFlex stuff (blue reinforced silicone hose) from Autobarn for around $3 per inch.

[Andrew357]

As for the silicon hose, does it matter what brand I get?

Not really. It's not going to be taking boost or anything like that. For uses like this, whatever is easiest for you to get and suits your budget. You can get the ThermalFlex stuff (blue reinforced silicone hose) from Autobarn for around $3 per inch.

Ahh ok, thanks Daryl

Sounds like a cheap trip to Autobahn then. I was having a look @ some prices on some 'real' hose and I was almost going to have a heart attack.

Will have a shop around at some exhuast places tomorrow for pricing on this SS tube I 'need'. <_<

Stupid Thursday night meets. Giving me too many ideas + suggestions.

[Whip Cracker]

Stupid Thursday night meets. Giving me too many ideas + suggestions.

Ah yeah... know that feeling... go to Mooloolaba spit... check out the Rice Burners there... "wow, wonder if I can do that too?"

[lateralus]

for the correct length of reinforced silicone hose, i went to supercheap auto when they had a sale on, and got a length of the "drift" stuff for $25 (otherwise around $35-$40), and bought some hose attachments/grommets from autobarn for $15.

keep in mind the amount of movement your engine has when you rev it hard. having a steel tube with 2 small bits of straight silicone tubing either side will not provide as much flex when compared to the standard intake tube (with the corrogated rubber for more flex). over time, it could possibly crack your airbox under stress. youre better off using just the silicone tube by itself and sticking a grommet in that for the pcv hose.

the above mod, coupled with removing the lower resonator and a k&n filter, gives it a pretty beefy note :)

[Andrew357]

for the correct length of reinforced silicone hose, i went to supercheap auto when they had a sale on, and got a length of the "drift" stuff for $25 (otherwise around $35-$40), and bought some hose attachments/grommets from autobarn for $15.

keep in mind the amount of movement your engine has when you rev it hard. having a steel tube with 2 small bits of straight silicone tubing either side will not provide as much flex when compared to the standard intake tube (with the corrogated rubber for more flex). over time, it could possibly crack your airbox under stress. youre better off using just the silicone tube by itself and sticking a grommet in that for the pcv hose.

the above mod, coupled with removing the lower resonator and a k&n filter, gives it a pretty beefy note :)

Hrmm... Alternatively I can just keep the original Rubber stuff and just pop in the steel tube to replace the airbox.

I pulled out the resonator today to take measurements and it's easy enough to do. If I decide to use the original rubber things, I just have to ask for a shorter tube.

[lateralus]

for the correct length of reinforced silicone hose, i went to supercheap auto when they had a sale on, and got a length of the "drift" stuff for $25 (otherwise around $35-$40), and bought some hose attachments/grommets from autobarn for $15.

keep in mind the amount of movement your engine has when you rev it hard. having a steel tube with 2 small bits of straight silicone tubing either side will not provide as much flex when compared to the standard intake tube (with the corrogated rubber for more flex). over time, it could possibly crack your airbox under stress. youre better off using just the silicone tube by itself and sticking a grommet in that for the pcv hose.

the above mod, coupled with removing the lower resonator and a k&n filter, gives it a pretty beefy note :)

Hrmm... Alternatively I can just keep the original Rubber stuff and just pop in the steel tube to replace the airbox.

I pulled out the resonator today to take measurements and it's easy enough to do. If I decide to use the original rubber things, I just have to ask for a shorter tube.

haha...good luck finding 2.75" steel tube (diameter of the resonator tube)!! i tried that, went to about 10 different places (including a stainless steel supplier), and they all looked at me funny.

[Andrew357]

I'll have a sniff anyway, hopefully someone will make one up for me.

[addy287]

I'll have a sniff anyway, hopefully someone will make one up for me.

u could just use the 3inch stuff they sell at supa cheap. but the only thing then is u'd have to buy the silicon reducers, which i think are about $30 each????

but man, lol the end result is well worth it. :D

[Andrew357]

Asked around and apparently no one can do it cost effectively.

However, went to Autobarn and they can do a setup for me which would work; however, they could only tap in a barb with an ID of what appeared to be less than 3/8" (it was either 3/8" or 5/16"). All the other barbs required a larger tap which they could no do for me.

Would putting a smaller ID tube to replicate the existing one be bad thing to do?

If I get desparate, I might give Trevor @ CES a call; he might be able to help.

[Andrew357]

CES to the rescue:

Going to find some rubber hump hose connectors (not going to use silicon hose) + some silicon hose tubing to connect the barbs and off we go!

[Whip Cracker]

BAM! Made up no probs... it's good when you know people ay..

[Andrew357]

Replace the resonator with the steel tube...

Done.

I couldn't source the Donaldson elbows so I just used the original rubber thingy's that came with it. I'll head out to autobarn and pick up some 1/2" ID tubing; I forgot to take into account the barb size OD so it's stretched over the barbs too much (no need for clamps though).

The engine doesn't exactly roar, but you can hear the whoosh at higher RPM's/acceleration.