corolla sportvio diy instruction clutch change

[jeffreymui]

Hey guys, me and my mate are looking to change the clutch in my 2003 rolla sportivo, and as for hondas we can just drop the gearbox right underneath the car, but so this we found out that the subframe might be on the way and we didnt want to be stuck half way through it, so im just wondering if anyone out here can give us some tips and possible a diy thread for the clutch changing? been searching around for a long time still no luck, would be very great if any of you could give us a hand here, thanks in advance

Jeff

[CHA54]

the subframe is notched to clear the diff housing of the box. I usually remove the north-south crossmember to make it easier to get the mounts etc out.

[jeffreymui]

so its just that frame u remove before dropping the box out? is there any other tips i should take note of? thanks a lot btw

[CHA54]

so its just that frame u remove before dropping the box out? is there any other tips i should take note of? thanks a lot btw

Drain the oil before removing the shafts is my first tip.

This is how I remove a box:

-Jack car up and place on chassis stands

-Remove airbox assembly and battery

-Remove shift cables and any electrical connectors on the box (reverse light switch, speedo sender if fitted, ground straps)

-Remove wheels and un-stake the driveshaft nuts.

-Remove driveshaft nuts with large rattle gun and deep impact socket or large breaker bar and SST to stop the hub turning.

For both sides...

-Use a bock of wood and a mini-sledge to knock the driveshaft end back in the hub towards the box, just knock it to move it back 10-20mm so it breaks the seal.

-Remove the two nuts and one bolt at the outer ball-joint in the suspension arm, these are 17mm from memory. Optionally undo the swaybar link from the swaybar or strut too.

-Lever the suspension arm down away from the ball joint and pull the hub assembly out off the end of the driveshaft. At this stage I usually tie the hub assembly so it's held out away from the shaft or get someone to hold it out while I pry the driveshaft out.

-Use a prybar and mini-sledge to knock the passenger side shaft out of the box, there's a circlip on the end that holds it in the diff. I find it easiest to knock out if the shaft is held level to the ground while the inner joint is hammer'd out.

-For the drivers side shaft it's a 2 piece shaft, some people try and unbolt the driveshaft bearing carrier off the block but I prefer to leave the bracket in place and remove the shaft from it. Can take a bit of prying to get out.

-with both shafts out, remove the starter motor bolts and the front and rear engine mounts. The rear mount is a complete bitch to remove. I use a really long 1/2" drive extension to undo the center-bolt from it through the steering rack gap in the chassis. With that bolt removed undo the bolts and nuts that hold the mount to the subframe, then lift/twist/turn the mount until it comes out. The front mount is really easy to remove in comparison but you might find the fan shroud is in the way a bit.

-with the mounts out it's easy to remove the north-south crossmember.

-Remove the shift cables from the box, I use bent-tipped long nose pliers to pull the U-shaped spring clips out from the cable retainers. The clips take a bit of force to remove, once the clips are out and the cables removed from the selectors they can be pushed out and tied up out of the way.

-Support the engine with either a trolley jack and block of wood under the sump or an engine support at the top of the bay and then remove all the bellhousing>block bolts. Unbolt the top engine mount at the chassis rail and remove the plate from the box, lower the engine down a bit and get ready to remove the box.

-At this stage I usually get under the car and basically bench-press the box out. I don't recommend this if you've not dont it before. The box isn't that heavy, it's around 30kg.

-It will take a bit of prying to get the box off the dowels in the block but once it's started it's not too difficult.

Getting the box back in is more difficult than removing it, the hardest part is getting the input shaft aligned with the clutch plate, if you're lucky it will slot straight in first go. If you're unlucky you will spend an hour or two lifting/wiggling/twisting the box to try and get the shaft to engage. It's easiest to put the box in-gear if you get into that situation.

[123R-Prozak]

Getting the box back in is more difficult than removing it, the hardest part is getting the input shaft aligned with the clutch plate, if you're lucky it will slot straight in first go. If you're unlucky you will spend an hour or two lifting/wiggling/twisting the box to try and get the shaft to engage. It's easiest to put the box in-gear if you get into that situation.

speaking of bench press lol i had to put the box on my chest, and while laying down on my creeper had to lift it and slide it in ! it nearly dropped on ma face too, but got it all good....

removing the frame underneath sounds easy but i didnt have an engine bridge for the top and nothing special to support it underneath so did it with the frame in.

still nice step by step !!!

soo smooth now im lovin the HD clutch, pedal is soo soft

[jeffreymui]

CHA54, i was just gona pm you after speaking to super dave, he told me to ask you, just the right timing, u saved my bank man, thanks a lot for the detail write up, DO APPRECIATE HEAPS! thanks x 100000