zre turbo update

[Plytme]

Its been some time since my last post so i thought it a good time to update the progress of my ZRE.

All was sweet at first turbo ran well fuel kept up on the standard ECU and pump etc. After a month (1,000kms) the factory ECU decided it didnt like the forced intake and kept going into 'safe' mode at random times. In addtion to the HKS airfilter calapsed and the turbo sucked in some. Needless to say the turbo didnt like that and failed on me. A waisted brand new garrett turbo.

2 months later and after a move to Canberra, i have bought a replacement turbo which is being refitted this weekend along with a new 3" exhaust and high flow cat. Monday week it goes to the dyno guys to install a Haltech ECU to cease the safe mode shut down.

Onced Dyno'd ill post my new results.

Anyone remember what the factory kw/hp figures are? (08 ZRE Corolla sedan)

[dutchie101]

OOh interesting!

Dyno results inc exhaust and stock

How difficult was the setup to make? custom exhaust manifold i gather... can you share any info?

cheers

[Plytme]

The guys i got to build the manifold in Liverpool (Sydney) did a great job. Took a week to get all the FMIC piping and manifold etc made. I got the manifold and 3" dump pipe ceramic coated in black to hold in more heat. Im running the SR20 (s15)factory Garrett turbo, new of course.

Im using a Greddy intercooler with a turbosmart BOV. When i get the car back after the Haltec is fitted ill be installing an electronic boost controller and a turbo timer.

I didnt see the point in buying the cheap intercooler etc didnt want the pressure drop.

The turbo on standard ECU made a huge difference. At present im running a 2" exhaust from standard cat which is soon to be increased. Its currently so small as i had the exhaust fitted not expecting to turbo it so quickly.

The intercooler fits nicely behind the sedan front bumper. No need to cut any away. Not sure with the hatch. I personally find the hatch to limited in space and dont like the look of the rear and how the gear stick sits.

Happy to give more info just ask and if i know ill let you know. I figure the more i share the easier it is for others. :-)

[chef]

I wonder if quicker than my sportivo when done?

[Plytme]

I wonder if quicker than my sportivo when done?

I would say yes. If your still in Canberra i wouldnt mind meeting up. I dont know any Toyota fans here? If so PM me. maybe we could compare the cars and really find out which is quicker. :-)

[xoom]

I wonder if quicker than my sportivo when done?

I would say yes. If your still in Canberra i wouldnt mind meeting up. I dont know any Toyota fans here? If so PM me. maybe we could compare the cars and really find out which is quicker. :-)

Now i am speculating that u r running a GT25 series turbo rather than a GT28 series turbo but im sure u can confirm as both were used on the SR20's .... i know u posted up a few photos a while back but put up a few more showing a bit more detail of the setup ..... also was it the guys at liverpool exhaust that did the plumbing for u ?

The answer to the above is that it really depends ...... putting drivers ability aside i would say that u should nudge out a stock standard stivo however u may find that one with the all the bolt-on mods might cause u some havoc .... i would say u would still nudge it out but it would be ever so close ..... in saying this though any mid-range acceleration i.e. not off a standing start but on the track going through corners / up the straight etc i would expect the stivo to struggle as the additional power and torque provided by the turbo would just be too much to contend with i would think & any rev loses on the n/a stivo would have massive impact on its ability to catch-up if at all where as with the turbo it would be more lenient.

i should probably also highlight that it also depends on how far ur prepared to push the stock engine ...... as u could push a crap load of boost through it to smash a lot of car but find that ur cost of doing so reliability ..... i'd say the above would be applicable to moderate / safe boost levels on a stock engine.

However for a fairer fight match it up against a turbo'ed sportivo and u'll get munched ;) ;) ;) ;)

[CHA54]

I wouldn't bother spending money on an electronic boost controller, buy a $100 MAC valve instead and wire it to the haltech, then do the boost control from the Haltech.

Are you going with a full standalone install or is the haltech being piggyback'd off the stock ECU? Which haltech are you going for, the PS1000?

[Plytme]

I wonder if quicker than my sportivo when done?

I would say yes. If your still in Canberra i wouldnt mind meeting up. I dont know any Toyota fans here? If so PM me. maybe we could compare the cars and really find out which is quicker. :-)

Now i am speculating that u r running a GT25 series turbo rather than a GT28 series turbo but im sure u can confirm as both were used on the SR20's .... i know u posted up a few photos a while back but put up a few more showing a bit more detail of the setup ..... also was it the guys at liverpool exhaust that did the plumbing for u ?

The answer to the above is that it really depends ...... putting drivers ability aside i would say that u should nudge out a stock standard stivo however u may find that one with the all the bolt-on mods might cause u some havoc .... i would say u would still nudge it out but it would be ever so close ..... in saying this though any mid-range acceleration i.e. not off a standing start but on the track going through corners / up the straight etc i would expect the stivo to struggle as the additional power and torque provided by the turbo would just be too much to contend with i would think & any rev loses on the n/a stivo would have massive impact on its ability to catch-up if at all where as with the turbo it would be more lenient.

i should probably also highlight that it also depends on how far ur prepared to push the stock engine ...... as u could push a crap load of boost through it to smash a lot of car but find that ur cost of doing so reliability ..... i'd say the above would be applicable to moderate / safe boost levels on a stock engine.

However for a fairer fight match it up against a turbo'ed sportivo and u'll get munched ;) ;) ;) ;)

Im running the GT28 version.

It was Liverpool exhaust. ive had mixed reviews about the guys but im happy with what i got. The past few cars ive turbo'd i made the manifolds etc myself. This time round with it being at the rear of the engine i didnt want to deal with the crap getting in there to develop the manifold.

Not going to push the stock engine to hard with the boost with the stock internals. Ill wait until i can get a better clutch etc. Nothing out there that i know of? before my last Turbo blew (thanks again HKS) i upset many celicas and late model 6's so im confident ill beat a n/a sportivo, am always happy to be shown wrong without hard feelings.

In 2 weeks once the new ECU and exhaust is finalised ill get under the car and take better pics and post with the dyno results.

[Plytme]

I wouldn't bother spending money on an electronic boost controller, buy a $100 MAC valve instead and wire it to the haltech, then do the boost control from the Haltech.

Are you going with a full standalone install or is the haltech being piggyback'd off the stock ECU? Which haltech are you going for, the PS1000?

Not fussed on the cost of an electronic boost controller, if i was i wouldnt be doing a custom turbo work, i like to know i have the cash there incase something fu*ks up and i can fix it quickly.

I wish i was going a standalone unit. There was only the one that i could find to suit a rolla with the drive-by-wire and i was not prepared to be the test guy. For now im going to be running the platinum interceptor that way i can retain the factory cold start etc.

[Ray89]

hmmm im interested keep me posted :)

[dutchie101]

Thanks for the run down, any chance of a rough pricing guide for the parts listed? Im very interested, but would like to compare the costs involved compares to a 2.4l conversion + blitz s/c setup.

[Ascendant Rice]

Thanks for the run down, any chance of a rough pricing guide for the parts listed? Im very interested, but would like to compare the costs involved compares to a 2.4l conversion + blitz s/c setup.

:o i was planning to do a 2.4 conversion with a turbo set up lol what a coincidence

[Ray89]

E

Thanks for the run down, any chance of a rough pricing guide for the parts listed? Im very interested, but would like to compare the costs involved compares to a 2.4l conversion + blitz s/c setup.

:o i was planning to do a 2.4 conversion with a turbo set up lol what a coincidence

Will mate when you actually stop talking and actually do it ill believe u

[Ascendant Rice]

E

Thanks for the run down, any chance of a rough pricing guide for the parts listed? Im very interested, but would like to compare the costs involved compares to a 2.4l conversion + blitz s/c setup.

:o i was planning to do a 2.4 conversion with a turbo set up lol what a coincidence

Will mate when you actually stop talking and actually do it ill believe u

2012 :)

[master.Cuong]

E

Thanks for the run down, any chance of a rough pricing guide for the parts listed? Im very interested, but would like to compare the costs involved compares to a 2.4l conversion + blitz s/c setup.

:o i was planning to do a 2.4 conversion with a turbo set up lol what a coincidence

Will mate when you actually stop talking and actually do it ill believe u

2012 :)

LOL i will have to agree with ray here :P

[xoom]

reasonably simple to do up a price list ..... a bit of google searching and a few phone calls would do the trick as u cant be spoon fed everything guys :P

what do u need:

injectors

intercooler

air filter

intake and cooler piping

air filter

bov

turbo manifold

turbo

dump pipe

hi flow cat

exhaust

ecu

+

labour and tuning. The fuel pump may be questionable at this stage as im not sure what the stock pump can handle.

mind u this will get u up and running however at this point ..... and u know its only sound advice if u choose to adhere to it ..... u might want to think about brakes, suspension, clutch at a minimum .... LSD if one can be sourced.

in comparing to a 2.4L conversion i did have access to 3 crate motors from a friend at toyota for the bargain base price of under $2000 ;) ;) ;) i dont believe he has them anymore. So the suggestion here might be to get urself a front cut or a wreck with rear damage as it will probably be handy to have access to all the spare bits that the engine and car will have on it ...... i would really need to further look into it to see what else would be required.

i'd say the turbo conversion would be an easier job as dropping the larger engine i think will create more and larger head F@#ks than the turbo conversion ..... that being said i would prefer to see a s/c 2.4L over a turbo'ed zre ;) ;) ;) ;)

[Suprathai]

Would there be issues regarding engineering for a 2.4 replacing a 1.8 not mentioning the fact that you add forced induction??

[xoom]

Would there be issues regarding engineering for a 2.4 replacing a 1.8 not mentioning the fact that you add forced induction??

legalities shmegalities ..... with enough cash im sure u could buy ur way out of trouble ...... lol

that being said if u get rid of all engine capacity referencing and use as much of the engine covers and stock plastics it would probably look stock just be a fuller engine bay ...... and u could easily get a s/c engineered ......

now dont think im condoning anyone doing this but lets just say ive seen a few engine bays in my time with cars running larger capacity engine but due to the stock nature unless u r in the car scene there is no way u could tell ......

[dutchie101]

I would opt for a "Blade" front cut probably, far easier, same chassis, same car, everything in one hit. But the RAV4 donk puts out a little more power, not sure if this is ECU related or not. OOOOHHHH crated 2.4l, dont tease!! Any left??!!!??!!??!

Zoom im not expecting to be spoon fed, Plytme said he would offer any assistance he could, just fishing, not looking for a silver spoon

Engineering shouldnt be an issue, as normally if you can show history of the same engine in the same chassis your already half way there.. S/c'ing, well, that might be different!

Ps, ive done a 1j conversion on a Cressy i had a while back, so im well aware of the creeping parts list. The front cut would be far easier.

[xoom]

now i went searching for the latest facts and figures based on the 3rd edition of the adr rules but its gotten even more complicated than before ..... lol ..... plus the naming is even worse for trying to find something

anyway below is a grab from the older version regarding maximum cc's that u can upgrade a car to legally ..... obviously u will still need a eng certificate but effectively if u exceed the figures the engineer wont even give u a certificate

now according to redbook the zre hatch weighs 1275kg's so

1275 x 4.82mL = 6.1455 L NA or

1275 x 4.0mL = 5.100 L with a turbo or supercharger

obviously an engineer will require that everything is adequetly supported and that the car can handle the larger engine in all aspects ..... isnt it brilliant that our fat little corolla's weigh so much ...... lol

[johnnieboi]

PICS!!

[Plytme]

Thanks for the run down, any chance of a rough pricing guide for the parts listed? Im very interested, but would like to compare the costs involved compares to a 2.4l conversion + blitz s/c setup.

Well.. i picked up the Turbo (GT2860R) cheap through a local autobarn (know the owner) for $1,200. BOV was $300. FMIC $450. All intercooler piping work, dump pipe, oil/water lines, silicon joins & ceremic coating $3,000. Car is in the shop on the 16/08 for the ECU install and dyno $2,800. So a total of $7,750ish.

I didnt think that there was that much difference in the 2.4 v's 1.8 considering the extra fuel consumption and i thought the 2.4 model only comes auto?

[xoom]

Thanks for the run down, any chance of a rough pricing guide for the parts listed? Im very interested, but would like to compare the costs involved compares to a 2.4l conversion + blitz s/c setup.

Well.. i picked up the Turbo (GT2860R) cheap through a local autobarn (know the owner) for $1,200. BOV was $300. FMIC $450. All intercooler piping work, dump pipe, oil/water lines, silicon joins & ceremic coating $3,000. Car is in the shop on the 16/08 for the ECU install and dyno $2,800. So a total of $7,750ish.

I didnt think that there was that much difference in the 2.4 v's 1.8 considering the extra fuel consumption and i thought the 2.4 model only comes auto?

Yeah i'd thought u would need to sink about $10K into it & would very easily get up to $15k if u decide to build the bits and pieces around it also ....... the 2.4L based on the Rav4 numbers has an extra 25kw at same revs as the 1.8L & 49NM at slighlty lower rpm & is availabe in a manual ..... its just our camry's that get stuck with the auto. The other thing is as well is as u would know due to the larger capacity when u play with it u would expect the increases in power and torque to be more substantial over the 1.8L .......

Anyway horses for courses either way always good to see someone modifying their car beyond simple bolt-ons ...... cant wait to see the results when ur car comes out of the shop.

I'd be very interested to seeing an under bonnet pic showing all the plumbing and a pic from on top showing the manifold as i'd like to compare this with the stivo in term of how much real estate u had to play with because there was SFA space on the sportivo.

[CHA54]

which haltech are you going with?

[chef]

I wonder if quicker than my sportivo when done?

I would say yes. If your still in Canberra i wouldnt mind meeting up. I dont know any Toyota fans here? If so PM me. maybe we could compare the cars and really find out which is quicker. :-)

Welcome to canberra Not to many nice rolla's in Canberra, finally some Competition