Greeting from Germany // Question about Work CR KAI and Rim Dimensions
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What transmission type is on 1MZ-FE
Hi, please tell me where to post this question. But I have a 2002 Lexus ES300 which has a 1MZFE engine. Stupidly I went to change a tyre with the car jacked up and I used a breaker bar to crack the nut but I rotated the wheel, now the wheel rotates in park. So I think I broke the park pawl. And I want to know if I have to remove the transmission or engine, to fix it. Thanks in advance! -
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HZJ78 TO HJ75 door compatibility
Could someone enlighten me as to whether a HZJ78 Troopy passenger door will fit a 1989 HJ75 ute. Also has anyone had any experience in replacing door pillar chassis sections. Thank you .Jamo new member -
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Recent Common Issue Perth: Brake Noise After Pad Replacemt
As a mechanic based in Perth, I’ve recently seen a rise in customers coming in with brake noise issues shortly after having their brake pads replaced – often by third-party workshops or DIY jobs. 🛠️ Common Problem: Squealing or grinding noise just days after new brake pads are installed. Sometimes paired with vibrations or uneven braking. 🔍 Root Cause (In Most Cases): Cheap or low-quality brake pads Pads not bedded-in properly Rotors not resurfaced or replaced when necessary Missing anti-squeal shims or improper grease on contact points ✅ Our Fix: Full inspection of pad quality & rotor condition Proper application of brake grease & shims Brake rotor machining or replacement if needed Road test to confirm issue is resolved 🤝 Tip for Customers: Always ask for OE-quality pads and make sure your mechanic checks rotor thickness and applies anti-squeal compound during install. Let me know if you’ve encountered this issue — happy to help or answer questions. -
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ZRE152R - rear caliper not releasing properly
G'day, Vehicle is a ZRE152R Corolla which has done plenty of kms without too many issues. A while ago I did notice the rear right caliper dragging, and put it off as I couldn't find a rebuild kit. Eventually it got pretty bad, so over the weekend I've put on new rear pads/disc, as well as a wrecker caliper that was in very good condition. Noticed on the original disc that the back had worn significantly more than the front. As part of this I pulled the caliper sliders out of the original carrier bracket, cleaned/degreased the entire bracket, put on new lithium grease and installed with new seals. Slider pins move freely in and out and have next to no wear. Bled the brakes, bedded the new pads in and took it for a quick drive - everything seemed fine but I thought I could hear a little bit of dragging still. Didn't think too much of it until I got home and noticed that the inner pad was cooked - it had been binding on the side closest to the center of the hub with wearing about half a mm into the new disc already. Since then I've pulled the wheel off, cleaned/regreased everything and checked everything functions as it should. I disconnected the handbrake at the caliper end, and pressing on the brake everything works well - but it doesn't release fully. I can wind the piston in without an issue, and it will extend without the pads in fine. Wracking my brains trying to think what else the issue could be - spoken to a few people who are insistent it's the slider pins binding up, but I've confirmed this isn't the case. Cheers -
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Bought a 2006 Toyota Aurion Prodigy
Yeah just run your vin by Toyota and they'll tell you if the recall has been done I once owned a mint 380 vrx, drove super smooth I really liked that car. Upon selling it, I found nobody wanted it, depreciation was a killer- 1
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Broken wiring --location help
Gooday, I'm new to this forum, hope someone can help. My vehicle is a 2007 Hilux SR {AUTO) GGN15R engine is a 4lt V6 1GR-FE. I replaced the starter motor and in the process broke/pulled out 2 wires one being black the other white. They are in convoluted tubing and exist the loom about 300mm from starter solenoid (towards front of vehicle) and the wires look as if they have come out of a plug, however I cannot see/locate any sensor/join to reconnect to in the radius of the length of wires. With the left front wheel off you can see 2 wires in convoluted tube behind the alternator. The new new starter works perfect however these 2 wires being OC have killed the motor... I cannot see any entry back into the convoluted tube wiring loom to allow wires to join -
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Halogen bulbs to LED 200series Landcruiser
Can you change the halogen bulbs with led bulbs safely -
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Bought a 2006 Toyota Aurion Prodigy
Hey guys, I just bought a 2006 Prodigy off my grandma, it only has 116000kms on the clock. It’s only had two owners, the Kalgoorlie gold mines and my grandma and I have the full service history (it has been taken care of very well). My first Toyota, I also own a 2007 Mitsubishi 380 GT. Firstly I would like to say, this car is not super mechanic friendly compared the 380, but it’s nothing compared to more modern cars. A couple thing I wanted to ask about, the dashboard, oil cooler lines, vvt lines, the transmission. Firstly, the dash is kinda sticky, and upon doing research (in this forum) it’s yeah a common issue for this time period for Toyotas, is a dash mat the best solution for this? I personally don’t like the look of a dash mat but I don’t have much choice. In 2016 at about 88426kms, the oil cooler pipe was replace due to leaking and I’ve heard that there were problems with the two rubber hoses and that Toyota made a full metal hose part, although I could not find these oil cooler lines when looking for them (18, not super mechanically inclined). Should I make sure the oil cooler pipes were replaced with the superior metal part? (oh and a side question, is the oil cooler in the radiator? I looked at the workshop manual and it suggested this) Now the vvti line oil line looks like the original with the rubber section, this will need replacing with the metal line yeah? (pic below) Also, the transmission has not been serviced, should I have it serviced? Oh and this car has had the stop light switch acting up in 2017, got fixed, then got replaced in 2021 (not sure if it was acting up chances are it was), then it was acting up a couple months ago as well, but I think that was actually the center brake light not working (fixed now). The water pump was replaced in 2016 due to leaking as well. Lastly is there anything else I need to be aware about with this car? Thanks for your time reading this. -
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New to Toyota - 2005 Corolla Sportivo!
Been a fair while since my last update. Not a whole heap has changed on the car since I'm now really just doing regular maintenace rather than making modifications. Back in April, I noticed for some time my drivers side guard indicator had not been working. I went ahead and attempted to remove the indicator cover and the whole lense came off. I found the bulb had actually split and required replacement. I got handy with the blutack to get the lense back on until some new OEM replacements arrived and got some new bulbs. I have to say, I didn't notice the lack of orange on my indicators before changing the bulbs. It's a nice little change and found my current bulbs which I'd never changed before had all the orange film basically peeled off. New indicator lense vs the 2 old units. Part number for anyone needing any, of course in great Toyota fashion the part is shared across multiple models and I just went and found the cheapest shop that had the same part number. As I mentioned in previous posts, I'd had a clunk like noise for some time and I noticed it kept getting worse from the first time I noticed it. One weekend when I finally had some time available, I decided to jack up the car and have a look and what I found wasn't totally shocking. I found that the rear engine mount bracket that is attached to the gearbox, was not attached there anymore. 2 of the 3 bolts were missing and the only 1 left was sitting there dangling. With the help of my mates Alec and Richard, I was able to get some spare identical bolts of Richy and Alec was able to re-install them as it was a job I was able to explain what I needed to do but couldn't get my head around doing it. Alec ended up having to take out the engine mount, jack up the engine/gearbox to line if all up before putting it all back together. After chatting with Alec about it, he mentioned what likely happened was someone hasn't done the bolts up tight enough which meant the bottom 2 fell out leaving the last single one on the top to take all the force before it let go. Once he mentioned this, I realised I started noticing the noise after I'd got my clutch changed before my wedding in 2023 and he agreed that it was definitely at that point it was likely one of the mechanics didn't bother checking the bolts to see if they were tight. A bit annoying but oh well we move on. All the bolts went back although, the single top bolt needed loctite as it's likely as Alec said, it was the last one held in and when it was forced out it's taken some thread out. I'm going to monitor this as for now the car is driving really well and feels great to drive again. If the bolt comes out again, I will have to get the gearbox out and get someone to re-tap the thread for that bolt. Best photo I could get but here's a shot of where a bolt should be. So for the last few days I've finally been enjoying driving my car once again. Once I found out what the issue was, I sat it in the garage and didn't start or drive it for almost a month. Thankfully it started first go. In other news, I finally bit the bullet and bought a snapshade after getting sick and tired of the SCA cheapies that never fit and keep falling down. I got one during their sale earlier this year and after a mix up when I received the incorrect one (part numbers were very similar so an easily made mistake), I finally tested it out and the fit is great. The team were really easy to get onto and sorted the issue out in no time. Stay tuned
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