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New headunit and speaker install


rawso

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Just finished putting in the new head unit, replacing the cheap Chinese piece of s.hit - Sooooo much better in every way! SQ is amazing!

So here's some photos of the install and parts used. I'll keep this thread updated with new installs etc, going to put some extra lighting in. Also happy to answer any questions anyone has.

Currently:

Front speakers - Critical Mass RS69

Rear speakers - Critical Mass SS69

Amp - MB Quart ONX4.125 1000WRMS

HeadUnit - Pioneer Avic-F40BT

Steering wheel interface - PAC SWI RC

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post-28952-0-74041600-1346856040_thumb.j

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Expensive lol. Headunit $1700, Speakers $900, Amp $300 (i think), Wiring $80, Interface $80, Fascia $50 and another $30 or so for crimps, solder etc etc.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys n Gals

Nice to see all these info , but am lost

Am trying to Install a Pair of Rockfordfosgate Power T1693 (http://www.rockfordf...?itemid=112902) on Front Doors on my Toyota Aurion Presara.. I already have a Set of T1693 on Rear Channels and I love the clarity of sound they produce , So i wanna do that on the Front Doors, But am trying to find out what kind of mounting depth i can get from Aurion Presara front doors.

While installing rear speakers i had a lot of issues with clearances and still the magnet has got 1 mm clearance with boot linkages., I dont want to rip the door panels and end up with a not possible verdict ,so if anyone has done something similar pls let me know.

Below is my set up

Spacers am planning to use is http://www.car-speak...s.php?id=SAK010 they are 1" deep

MS-A1004_001_dv480x480.png

T1693_1_m.png

image.png

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have installed a set of 6 x 9 Rockford Fosgate Punch P1694C speakers in the rear, they are running off the standard head unit, I had to cover the tension bar in the boot with foam to protect the magnet but I get a rumbling at low volume mainly in the right speaker, I have check the polarity and it is wired correctly, it seems to be less at higher volume but the bass seems hollow like the speaker is getiing too much power but the volume is only at 45 on the head unit, it only noticable on certain songs depending on the bass, I can only think there is a problem with the speakers. I only installed them on Sunday. Not sure why it's happening. Also does anyone have a pic of the standard dash tweeter or can tell me the size of it and what would be a suitable replacement?

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

SATORI893 it could very well be that the factory head unit just can feed enough power to your speakers, factore head unit is only about 18watts. With low power fead to your new speakers u could damage them.

Really? I didn't think low power feed could do that, I guess a line converter into an amp would be a good investment to up the power to the speakers in that case.

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Hi, when replacing the speakers in the back did u have to buy spacers? I have a 2011 aurion and brought new 6x9's today and was wondering would I have to buy spacers or does it really depend on the speaker?

Thanks

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Graeme, i dont believe that in line converters up the wattage, all they do is convert your speaker wires into RCAs to give support for amps, therefore you'll still need an amp to run speakers with an RMS >50watts

Alex, check out my post here for speaker mounts

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Hi, when replacing the speakers in the back did u have to buy spacers? I have a 2011 aurion and brought new 6x9's today and was wondering would I have to buy spacers or does it really depend on the speaker?

Thanks

You have to watch the depth of the magnet as the tension rod in the boot doesn't give you much room and then with a spacer to reduce the depth you would have to make sure it clears the rear parcel shelf cover when its in place, the shelf can be trimmed away from underneath but not sure how much depending on the speaker height or if it has tweeters that stick up from the centre you would have to watch the clearance for them to.

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Hi, when replacing the speakers in the back did u have to buy spacers? I have a 2011 aurion and brought new 6x9's today and was wondering would I have to buy spacers or does it really depend on the speaker?

Thanks

You have to watch the depth of the magnet as the tension rod in the boot doesn't give you much room and then with a spacer to reduce the depth you would have to make sure it clears the rear parcel shelf cover when its in place, the shelf can be trimmed away from underneath but not sure how much depending on the speaker height or if it has tweeters that stick up from the centre you would have to watch the clearance for them to.

as far as i know, the type r's i installed have very good clearance from the rods, they give more space than the factory speakers, thats with a 1/4" bracket

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SATORI893 it could very well be that the factory head unit just can feed enough power to your speakers, factore head unit is only about 18watts. With low power fead to your new speakers u could damage them.

Why is it only the rear speakers that have the rumble? I have upgraded the front ones and they perform excellently, could it be the fader settings or because they are a different brand of speaker?

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http://www.elinz.com.au/products/specific-car-stereo-dvd-player/8-toyota-camry-aurion-car-lcd-dvd-gps-tv-radio-player-stereo-bluetooth-cdc-ipod/

just wanting to get everyone's thoughts on this head unit looks alright but yeah not to sure on it, what's everyone think?? thanks

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I got an amp for my rear speakers to boost the power to them, for the REM to switch the amp on, does the head unit have a +12v when it is on to do this? Before I pull my car apart and check could I use the Antenna Booster Amplifier power out or does this only have power when the radio is on? If the factory head unit has no suitable 12v out for the amp switch, how has anyone who has added an amp got around this? Is there a way to do it off the head unit or do I have to install a swtich from another source? My head unit is a Toyota 6 stack with reversing camera (no Nav) in a 2010 facelift Touring model, is there a wiring diagram for the plugs on this unit on here somewhere or in the downloaded manuals? Would appreciate the help.

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When I cut off the stock tweeter it have 4 wires how do I hook it up with aftermarket tweeter with 2 cables?????

One question, why did you cut it off ? its got a plug.

Also, the reason is has 4 cables is because two cables are signal in to the tweeter and the other two are signal out to the woofer.

The way I done it is, on the drivers side, you can feed the cable down all the way to the drivers footwell. However the passenger side is more difficult. If you feed it down the hole, I found a small gap behind the glove box to put the cable through.

Both the boxes for the speakers are in the kickpanels.

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When I cut off the stock tweeter it have 4 wires how do I hook it up with aftermarket tweeter with 2 cables?????

One question, why did you cut it off ? its got a plug.

Also, the reason is has 4 cables is because two cables are signal in to the tweeter and the other two are signal out to the woofer.

The way I done it is, on the drivers side, you can feed the cable down all the way to the drivers footwell. However the passenger side is more difficult. If you feed it down the hole, I found a small gap behind the glove box to put the cable through.

Both the boxes for the speakers are in the kickpanels.

LOL i just tested only running 2 cable to 2 cable but no sound tweeter and speaker dont turn on, then i tape them back it works again.
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i try many ways to get the hezzzzz , woppooo sound to stop i just cant do it i run the rca and speaker cable at the right then power cable at the left... using 4 gauge cable for power and ground.. also did tune the jl-audio amp for my speaker down still dont help stop the hezzsss sound.. i tell you what i have 3 stage of sound problem LOL first: turn the key to first lvl play the music i can hear hezzzzzzzzzzz! second i turn key to ignition i can hear saaaaaaaaa!. third: start engine i can hear whooooooooopppp i rev the engine it go louder ! what on earth is going here im going nuts

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