locked front axles

[miyoot]

as you may have noticed i am not a regular user of forums.

so please, if i am intruding in the wrong section, kindly show me the error of my ways. in a polite fashion. i'm very sensitive.

that being said. on with the show.

have a 1992 hzj75 toyota ute, that has just turned over 400K's, & still going like it doesn't know it's age.

only had minor problems, one's that i can fix.HOORAH! unlike the minor problems that bring the latest computer driven vehicles to a dead stop if not a crawl.

which brings me to my question: the front hubs can locked & unlocked, but the axles do not disengage. hence, what started as a minor squeak that i could not find until the bearings in the rear uni-joint of the front shaft collapsed & the location of the squeak became obvious.

it was then that i found that the front axles had been continuously engaged. the hubs were in the unlocked position but the axles remained engaged .

it makes no difference if the hubs are in lock or unlock, the axles remain engaged.

i've had the hubs of several times to try & work out why this is so, & everything looks as it should.

what am i missing?

i've posed this question before i replace the hubs, (a new set which i have on hand,) just in case it might be a problem deeper within the bowels of the housing, & all my work would be in vain.

HEEEEEELP!

[LivingTheDream]

I am assuming that when you turn the locking hubs on the front axles from free to lock, the "knob" turns freely? If its does yet the axles don't disengage, then your problem lays in the locking mechanism. When the locking assembly is removed via the 6? bolts and you visually inspect it, there is a ring held together by a rather large awkward spring. If that assembly has been pulled apart or sprung apart in the past and not put together correctly, then the axles will either lock or not lock, even when the knob is turned either way. These locking hubs can be purchased and aren't too expensive. It saves having to muck around with the old units. The front axles slip through another section of the hub and are held in by either a circlip or bolt, depending on the model. Make sure all looks right and maybe take photos and post.

[GC_AUS]

Rod,

don't despair man - many people have been confused by those

what TheKlng said is true but they are totally serviceable so pull them down first & see whats wrong. Almost definitely from your description they will be full of crap & old grease has gone sticky.

wash them out & put them back together the correct way & I'm sure they will be fine.

there's plenty of how to vids on youtube - do a search for "Aisin Manual hub (freewheeling hub) rebuild Toyota Land Cruiser" & you should find something.

The squeak you describe points to something else at play here....

Your uni joint shouldn't fail even if you only had one hub engaged. Are you sure your front diff has oil in it? It sounds like something else is causing the diff to bind up & you are thinking its the hubs at fault??

Might be good idea to have a good look in there & make sure everything is in the right way with correct oil etc

Rgds

G.

[miyoot]

I am assuming that when you turn the locking hubs on the front axles from free to lock, the "knob" turns freely? If its does yet the axles don't disengage, then your problem lays in the locking mechanism. When the locking assembly is removed via the 6? bolts and you visually inspect it, there is a ring held together by a rather large awkward spring. If that assembly has been pulled apart or sprung apart in the past and not put together correctly, then the axles will either lock or not lock, even when the knob is turned either way. These locking hubs can be purchased and aren't too expensive. It saves having to muck around with the old units. The front axles slip through another section of the hub and are held in by either a circlip or bolt, depending on the model. Make sure all looks right and maybe take photos and post.

[miyoot]

g'day The King,
you assumed correctly, it was the hubs. i'd bought a pair just in case & slipped them on. no more problem.
you were correct to say that the cost of a new set was well worth not stuffing around trying to get the old set working. i've kept them, to repair at my leisure, as a back up set.
at the time of my query on these repairs, i had visited another site with queries on the replacement of a timing belt. had bought the replacement belt& water pump, as well as getting the tensioner bearing with the belt. so i thought i'd better get some advice on the replacement thereof.
after being told to buy a special tool for locking the the diesel pump,& to also purchase a book on replacing timing belts,(totalled up to another $165.00). i rang an old friend for some more advice." bull**** " was his reply to the purchase of all the dodads. after a little explanation, i did it in about 1 hour , maybe an hour & a half.
all in all it's been a productive weekend of work on miyoot.
thanks for your help,
regards, miyoot.
On 27/02/2014, at 8:50 PM, Toyota Owners Club - Australia <noreply@toyotaownersclub.com> wrote:

[miyoot]

Rod,

don't despair man - many people have been confused by those

what TheKlng said is true but they are totally serviceable so pull them down first & see whats wrong. Almost definitely from your description they will be full of crap & old grease has gone sticky.

wash them out & put them back together the correct way & I'm sure they will be fine.

there's plenty of how to vids on youtube - do a search for "Aisin Manual hub (freewheeling hub) rebuild Toyota Land Cruiser" & you should find something.

The squeak you describe points to something else at play here....

Your uni joint shouldn't fail even if you only had one hub engaged. Are you sure your front diff has oil in it? It sounds like something else is causing the diff to bind up & you are thinking its the hubs at fault??

Might be good idea to have a good look in there & make sure everything is in the right way with correct oil etc

Rgds

G.

[miyoot]

thankyou for your response,
in fact it was the rear uni joint of the front shaft that was squeaking, completely dry as it turns out. and you should have seen it when i finally got round to replacing it this weekend just gone. remember seeing one on a holden hk panel van about 30 odd years ago that was in similar condition. the owner had not even tried to replace it, he had simply tied a metal strap around the cap ends & soldered the ends of the strap together to stop the caps from coming off. true as i sit here. that sort of repair does not sit well with me.
both uni joints replaced, everything at that point going well.
and the diff oil was replaced several months ago, the first time in its life by the look of the contents of the diff when i did it. had to give it a complete flush out with kero, twice, then some nice new oil. the good thing about it was, there was no unwanted or unusual noises coming from the diff when i did the the job, i was simply looking for the squeaking noise. it wasn't the diff. and even after the double flush it makes only the sounds a good diff will make.
it was the hubs. when i got them off, for the 3rd time, it was the large spring that wasn't releasing, so i put the new pair on that i'd bought, & voila!
everything is now working as it should.
thankyou again for your input,
regards, miyoot.
On 28/02/2014, at 8:07 AM, Toyota Owners Club - Australia <noreply@toyotaownersclub.com> wrote:

[LivingTheDream]

No problems at all miyoot. Glad you didn't listen to the bull**** about needing special tools to lock the injector pump etc.

The best time I ever achieved while working for Toyota in replacing timing belts on HZJ80's and their pulleys etc was 17mins. Great fun because when given a job like that, for the remaining 1 hour or so as allocated by the repair guide to do the job, I could sit on my ***** hahahaha.

[miyoot]

g'day theking,

all's well here, but. how does one reset the timing belt light in a 1992, hzj75?

miyoot.