CV transmission issue
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JOKES !!!!
"The Far Side" by Gary Larson has some cartoons that pertain to cars & driving:- -
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200 Series reverse camera not working
Further update, Toyota had my vehicle all day and fitted the new camera; bloody thing did not work. So much for their diagnosis of an open circuit in the camera! Now I am told that I am going to have to remove all accessories out of the rear of the vehicle, so drawers, fridge and slide, battery and electronics that are all connected through to the main battery and solar system so that they can access the wiring in behind the side panels and drop the roof lining to further diagnose. Quoted me around $500 to remove all of these components so going to do myself and they are suspecting that the issue is going to be mine and not covered under warranty. The day after they fitted and removed the new camera, the rear vision started working for one day then died again so I am suspecting a wiring issue maybe through the tailgate or that as others have advised there is a faulty sensor under the passenger side dash that feeds into the infotainment system. I have mentionbed this sensor to Toyota on two occasions now and been fobbed off and not fault diagnosis undertaken that I am aware of. -
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rattle from the motor.
Here we are at June 21. After another round of mechanics workshops, the full timing chain and all parts have been changed, the catalytic (upper inc. the manifold,) converter, oil pump. Still when started cold it's a loud clatter, that is irregular in loudness and frequency. As it warms that decreases in loudness and consistancy, but can still be hears. When at idle, I increase the rpm to around 1500-2000 rpm, the sound fades to nothing. Please help. The mechanics have not, but I'm 5k poorer. -
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Landcruiser 300 GR - Wheel/Tyre Setups
Any requirements for adjusting the computers etc for an increased rolling diametre. -
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2008 200 series starter sticks in a few seconds after sitting
What was the solution plz -
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A major Electrical problem on 2013 Grande
haha nice to see your Kluger still going strong! Is your suspension still stock or you went with a lift for your road trips? I've decided to try keep mine for another few years so looking for lift kits for those long road trips when I get to pack the house with me. -
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Bought a 2006 Toyota Aurion Prodigy
Wow congrats with the purchase that's a low mileage for it's age. Quickly to address your queries. - Sticky dash there was a soft (quiet) recall some years ago but that was only applicable to Aurion less than a decade old at the time, I know some owners here missed out. Either wreckers, dash mat or bite the bullet and order a new dash that might worth more than the car. - On the engine apart from your usual stuffs needs replacing due to age and mileage another key thing you want to look out for is the oil line sitting at the bottom of the engine, it's rubber and mine blew about 150k km and caught it leaking just before parking it. They issued with a metal line and that's critical, once the rubber hose blows that's the end of your engine. - Headlights are pretty ***** poor for Toyotas of that era, mainly due to the very ordinary OEM projector lens, you can either DIY with a heat gun, ply it open and replace that or go aftermarket. I've tried HID (end up toasting the reflective materials inside the housing) and LEDs later but made some difference but still bad. - VVTi rattles, try to services it with good premium synthetic oils like Penrite, that's all I really use! - Transmission, I had my solenoid failed at 120k km, that was an expensive $900 fix since my private mechanic didn't want to touch it and I was out of state, so I bite the bullet and got it done. Other than that, you might get that intermediate steering shaft clicking noise when you turn, that's very common problem even now with other makers. Paintwork not the greatest if it spent it's whole life in the sun. Yeah that's about I can think from top of my head.- 1
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Bought a 2006 Toyota Aurion Prodigy
Congrats on your acquisition there. You have purchased a fine automobile mate. With regular maintenance, that car will see many hundreds of thousands of KLMS of trouble free motoring. Admittedly, the 40 series had a few teething problems, but Toyota did step up and remedy these issues. By the time they got to releasing the 50 series, all the issues had been ironed out. The 2GR-FE is a bullet proof engine, but that doesn't mean you should skimp on maintenance. Regular oil changes is the number one thing. Change the oil every 5-8k and you'll never have sludging issues. Use high quality oil and filter too. Not sure if Toyota are still doing the sticky dash recall. It hasn't been a talking point for many years. You can try and call Toyota and see if they are still doing it. Yes, You are correct. The original series Aurion had a couple of Achilles heals. The oil pipes and the VVTI lines. What Toyota were thinking using rubber to transport hot engine oil around a motor is beyond me. They did however step up when the reports started to come in under warranty claims, so they went back to the drawing board and came up with the full metal versions for the recall. They would have placed a silver sticker in the driver's door jamb to acknowledge this. Here's a nice nugget of info for you The oil cooler is a cylindrical heat exchanger mounted to the engine block. Those metal oil lines feed into this. The Cooler in the radiator is for the transmission fluid. 100% get this looked at and replace with the metal variant. Those rubber tubes will be very hard and brittle at this stage in the car's life. No wait too much longer. The water pumps were not of the best quality in the original series too. Toyota has made a few revisions since then and the ones you can buy now are vastly superior over the older ones. Don't use after market water pumps. Use only the OEM or Genuine Toyota parts for this job because it's a PITA job, so you only want to try and do this job once. Like any car, wear and tear is always there, but you can minimize this if you treat the car well. If you're a lead foot, you will destroy quickly. Drive it smoothly and take good care of it and it will reward you not only with fuel efficiency, but save you money for expensive break downs. Keep up with your maintenance and she will be a keeper for decades. Also, do the coolant service if that hasn't been done yet either. Use the original Toyota SLL Pink fluid. If there's anything else you need, let us know.- 1
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New to Toyota - 2005 Corolla Sportivo!
Hey mate, nice to hear from you again. Love the new Genuine Parts indicators. Nothing quite like original parts if you can get them. You'll be amazed at how many parts are becoming obsolete these days, especially Aurion parts. Lucky for me though, I started collecting a small war chest of genuine parts way back when the getting was good. Prices have gone significantly north since that time. It seems, that the part I'm looking for is not available and if it is for sale, it's dearer than poison. There are just some items I would really like to avoid using aftermarket. Aftermarket parts these days are suffering from very poor quality control and we all know why that is right ? I recently purchased a pair of front Original Toyota struts, among other items for my Aurion, when the time comes to replace them. I love the way the Aurion rides, so comfortable and smooth, I'd love to keep it that way. I've driven cars with aftermarket struts and they don't even compare to stock original. The ride feels a bit harsh and unrefined. Call me crazy, but it's true. OEM spec is the best in my opinion. It's not a sports car or a modified car so there's no point really to go for anything but stock. If you're modifying a car for higher performance, then I get it. Handling, braking, engine enhancements go hand in hand. With cars like my Aurion, they were never really intended to be a performance car and it does it's best work being a smooth, comfortable, reliable car with limousine like ride. Currently, my Aurion is at around 170K and still drives and rides like day one. I cannot be more happier. It's such a great car. I have to say that it was a good catch on those missing engine bolts. I would have to agree that it must have been when the shop did the clutch. It's an easy thing to overlook unfortunately in a busy shop when mechanics are under the pump to get the jobs done. I bet the guy intended to do it, and just plain forgot. Lucky you caught it in time though. It always pays to check over the work once you get the car home. You'd be surprised what you'll find. I've heard some stories from friends who always check under the hood after a service and the little things they noticed. Anyway, good to hear from you. Take care bud.
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