5th Gen Celica Engine Mounts

[geron]

Hi Guys,

I have a 1990 ST182 Celica AUTO with the 3SG-E engine and need some help with engine mounts.

Going by the level of maintenance on this car, it looks as thought this thing has just been run to the ground. 

I am trying to restore it to it's former glory because I think they're cool and it's a shame to just disregard it as a POS!

The front engine mount has collapsed and there is a vibration through out the car at idle, inside the cabin it just drones at idle! (I have never experienced that before in a car at idle).

Question is, are all the ST18X engine mounts the same for eg, are 5SF-E and 3SGT-E the same as 3GS-E?  I will assume that the engine blocks would all be relatively the same externally but I am not sure.

From what I have seen at the wreckers, it appears the 5SFE mounts look the same as what's in the car now. Before I start buying mounts I thought to run it by anyone here that might know better.

Any suggestions?

Peter

[trentmeyer23]

It would pay for you to sign up to http://www.ozcelica.com as well. It will take a while for your account to be manually approved, but should be worth it in the end. Those guys have a lot more experience with the import Celicas.

[geron]

Thank you for the suggestion!

I have tried to join OZCelica but nearly 3wks now and nothing. I gave up.

Also trying to contact the administrator, many times now, results in email failure notice.

All the signs of a welcoming forum it seems. Rolls eyes.

Peter

[trentmeyer23]

It is a good forum once you have been approved.

[campbeam]

I have repaired and reinforced the rubber engine mounts using polyurethane sealant/adhesive. If you are doing multi[;e engine mounts, then using a cartridge is more economical, otherwise use the 150ml tubes.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-X-BOSTIK-POLYURETHANE-SEALANT-ADHESIVE-CARTRIDGE-310ML-LIKE-SIKAFLEX-SEALER-/301785265424?hash=item4643cdb510:g:3H4AAOxycmBS3bdZ

Ist step is to remove and inspect the engine mount for wear/damage. In one case, I used superglue to glue the broken centre into the correct position before using the Sikaflex or Bostik sealant. I prepare cardboard templates with the centre hole cut out for both sides of the engine mount. Then cover the templates with plastic/gaffa tape. Put a template on one side of the mount and then sqeeze in the sealant. Other template is used to push in the sealant so the engine mount is totally filled. Rather than wait 24 hours or longer for the sealant to fully cure, I put the engine mounts [with cardboard templates still attached] into the oven overnight on low heat 80-100c. In the morning, remove from oven and let cool. Templates should be able to be removed and even reused, if required. 

Even if you buy new mounts, this is something you can do to reinforce mount for longer life.

[geron]

That is a lot of work campbeam.

I managed to source the mounts with the help of Ryde Toyota.

They are not that expensive and worth installing in on a 27yo car.

I also got the rubbers for the engine x-member front and rear. They are not cheap. The ones on the car now are sold rubber with cracks. I don't see them doing any sort of vibration dampening.

Peter

[campbeam]

Lot easier and less expensive than pressing out the original insert from the engine/transmission mounts and replacing with solid polyurethane inserts which I did on my 96 Nissan Pulsar. Also ended up drilling about 4 holes in the solid polyurethane insert of the engine mount to get rid of the transmitted vibration to the chassis / drone noise in the cabin. 

Good that you have been able to source replacement mounts and not so expensive.