2010 Kluger coolant replacement

[Milo 10]

Hi all,

Planning to replace coolant in my 2010 Kluger KX-S AWD. From what I read, it is impossible to get all the coolant out of the system by opening the radiator drain plug and both engine drain plugs. Even if I go to the extreme of disconnecting front and rear heater core hoses, it still won't get out more than 3/4 of coolant.

Now, the issue is that Toyota only sells premixed Super Long Life Coolant (pink) for Kluger.

I can simply top up with SLLC, but I will still have 1/4 of old coolant in the system.

Or, I can flush the system with distilled water by refilling / draining the system 3 or 4 times until I get clear water out. In that case, if I fill it with SLLC, I will never be able to achieve 50% coolant mixture, of course.

What should I do? Do I just live with 1/4 of old coolant or do I go for some other coolant manufacturer which offers concentrated coolants and then I can flush and make my own 50% mixture?

Unless somebody can suggest a method by which I can remove close to all coolant from the system, so I can simply refill with SLLC.

Thanks

Milo

[campbeam]

Milo, it appears that you really want to make the effort to fully flush the cooling system so that all of the old coolant is replaced.

As you have already mentioned, flushing the system a few times with distilled water would be an effective option. I would then go for a concentrated coolant making your own mixture also taking into account the amount of distilled water remaining in the cooling system. I use the Penrite concentrate which I previously bought on special.

https://www.autobarn.com.au/nulon-red-long-life-coolant-5l-rll5

Something I have done for the last few years has been to remove the coolant overflow bottle and give it a good clean inside, annually. The coolant in the bottle was disposed of and replaced with a new mixture. I have recently drained the radiator as part of the process to replace the alternator, so it will be a while before I consider whether the overflow bottle needs a cleaning.

[Milo 10]

10 hours ago, campbeam said:

Milo, it appears that you really want to make the effort to fully flush the cooling system so that all of the old coolant is replaced.

As you have already mentioned, flushing the system a few times with distilled water would be an effective option. I would then go for a concentrated coolant making your own mixture also taking into account the amount of distilled water remaining in the cooling system. I use the Penrite concentrate which I previously bought on special.

https://www.autobarn.com.au/nulon-red-long-life-coolant-5l-rll5

Something I have done for the last few years has been to remove the coolant overflow bottle and give it a good clean inside, annually. The coolant in the bottle was disposed of and replaced with a new mixture. I have recently drained the radiator as part of the process to replace the alternator, so it will be a while before I consider whether the overflow bottle needs a cleaning.

Many thanks for the response, Ashley! Yep, I was thinking about Nulon as well. I hope it's as good as Toyota's SLLC.

Thanks

Milo

[AurionX2]

Milo, my 2008 had a water pump failure around 130k mark. Mechanic refilled with Castrol Radicool pink, pretty sure they haven't flushed the existing SLLC completely. 2 years and 30k kms later I drained the radiator myself (around 4.4l came out) and refilled with Nulon Long Life premix. No issues at all, I've still got some 4 odd litres left for another drain/fill. As you've crunched the numbers already, it's impossible to flush the system completely and replace all coolant. Drain and refill is good enough to replenish the anti corrosion aditives. Besides, if you want to take the coolant out of the heater core you need to remove the thermostat, which isn't exactly a trivial job. Or fill it with water 2/3 times and drive it around to get the engine temperature up so that the thermostat will open. Too much faffing around. If I really should recommend you something on this topic: spend 50-55aud on the Lisle spill free funnel kit, makes bleeding a breeze. Rather than worrying about flush vs drain, or Toyota SLLC vs Nulon, just buy the spill free kit, you'll be amazed by how helpful it is in getting the job done 🙂

[Milo 10]

45 minutes ago, AurionX2 said:

Milo, my 2008 had a water pump failure around 130k mark. Mechanic refilled with Castrol Radicool pink, pretty sure they haven't flushed the existing SLLC completely. 2 years and 30k kms later I drained the radiator myself (around 4.4l came out) and refilled with Nulon Long Life premix. No issues at all, I've still got some 4 odd litres left for another drain/fill. As you've crunched the numbers already, it's impossible to flush the system completely and replace all coolant. Drain and refill is good enough to replenish the anti corrosion aditives. Besides, if you want to take the coolant out of the heater core you need to remove the thermostat, which isn't exactly a trivial job. Or fill it with water 2/3 times and drive it around to get the engine temperature up so that the thermostat will open. Too much faffing around. If I really should recommend you something on this topic: spend 50-55aud on the Lisle spill free funnel kit, makes bleeding a breeze. Rather than worrying about flush vs drain, or Toyota SLLC vs Nulon, just buy the spill free kit, you'll be amazed by how helpful it is in getting the job done 🙂

Hey Adrian,

You are reading my mind. I'll order Lisle from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com.au/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Lisle+24680&qid=1563098444&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Hopefully, it's easy to use.

Edited July 14, 2019 by Milo 10

[campbeam]

Following YouTube video shows how to use the spill free funnel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hNEgD52MB0

I do not have one so I just used an ordinary funnel to fill the radiator until the coolant covered the radiator fins then just gently squeezed the radiator hoses a few times to air bleed the cooling system. I then fully filled the radiator, replaced the cap and then slighly overfilled the coolant overflow bottle. I then started the engine and checked that all appeared to be ok before driving as normal. Later, check the coolant level in the overflow bottle and top up, if required

There is an air bleed port on the engine but I left it alone due to past experience of breaking one off on another vehicle. 

http://carspecmn.com/toyota-and-lexus-3-5l-v6-2gr-fe-coolant-bleeding-trick/

 

 

[AurionX2]

It's really easy to use, comes with fittings for most common radiator caps. One thing you need to keep an eye on when refilling the radiator is to not overfill excessively, otherwise the extra coolant will go back in the bottle if the level overflow tank is at full mark. In my case I chose to leave it slightly above full when hot. When cold it drops about an inch below full mark. Because I used the funnel with the front of the car slightly lifted using the jack stands I have no airlocks and the heater started blowing hot air as soon as the engine warmed up. Didn't need to top up after servicing it, meaning the funnel did its job.

Edited July 15, 2019 by AurionX2

[Milo 10]

Thanks for your responses, guys.

Here is something to confuse me even more:

My 2010 Kluger AWD asks for Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC). At the moment in the car I have factory filled PINK SLLC.
Toyota specifies using NON: Silicate, Amine, Nitrite, Borate coolant.

Penrite website recommends using COOLRED005 which is NON: Amine, Nitrite, Borate, Phosphate coolant.
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/8-year-500000km-red-concentrate#/

I queried Penrite technical support with my issue to which they recommended BLUE, which is: NON: Silicate, Amine, Nitrite, Borate, Phosphate coolant.
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/7-year-450000km-blue-concentrate#/

Nulon website recommends using ONE for which it doesn't even list what "NON" it is:
https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/one-100-percent-concentrate-coolant

Nulon website ALSO recommends using GREEN for which is NON: Nitrite, Phosphate, Amine coolant. As well as low Phosphate.
https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/green-premium-long-life-coolant-100-percent-concentrate

Nulon techincal support recommends using RLL which is NON: Silicate, Amine, Nitrite, Phosphate coolant.
https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/red-premium-long-life-coolant-100-percent-concentrate

What a mess! I have no idea what to put in my car now!

What would/do you use?

Thanks

Milo

[jeffy]

2 hours ago, Milo 10 said:

What would/do you use?

if it was red in there, id replace it with red regardless of coolant flush/replacement

[AurionX2]

I use this:

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/red-premium-long-life-pre-mix-coolant

But you can't go wrong with Toyota SLLC.