Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Quite a few months ago, Tony suggested ceramic coating the windscreen for its hydrophobic benefits; better than Rain X.

When it comes to detailing, I am very much at the beginner stage so got a lot to learn.

Being very budget focused, I bought a 3 pack of 9H Mr Fix Ceramic Coating on eBay from a China seller. A YouTube review indicates that it is diluted and takes longer to cure compared to a premium product. Premium products will last 2 years minimum whereas the 9H Mr Fix is only saying 12 months. 

Following video demonstrates the steps to thoroughly clean the windscreen before applying the ceramic coating.  

I had previously cleaned and polished the windscreen a few times in recent weeks. So the windscreen got another wash then sprayed with some detailing spray as lubricant for the clay bar. Instead of polishing the windscreen, I buffed it with both a dry polishing pad and a woollen pad. I then used some paint preparation spray and dried off the winscreen with microfibre towels. I forgot to then do a clean of the windscreen with isopropyl alcohol.

Applying the ceramic coating was as per the 9H product video with vertical and horizontal wipes of the supplied applicator pad. I found the product very easy to work with as it did not cure quickly. Actually, I was wiping the excess off the front windscreen and applying it to the rear windscreen. Instructions said to wait 5-10 minutes before lightly wiping with a microfibre towel to remove any excess. However, it was a very overcast day so I probably waited an hour or so before doing that final wipedown.

I was doing this in the backyard with the potential for some light rain. I improvised using a car cover with the wiper arms up and boxes on the car roof to keep the cover off the windscreens. 

Planning upon doing another coating early Sunday then let it cure before applying a final top coat of P&S Beadmaker early Monday morning. 

 

 


Posted

Good stuff Ash. I'd be interested to see how the product buffs off. Did it leave any smearing ?

Being a slightly watered down liquid, I'd definitely put another coat on to help build up the resistance. When you say "paint prep spray", did you mean Prepsol or wax and grease remover ? This should be fine, but a strong Isopropyl alcohol is ideal.

P&S over the top isn't really necessary, but it wouldn't hurt to add it. Maybe wait a couple of months before apply the P&S and see how ell the ceramic performs as a stand alone and then apply the Beadmaker. 

Beadmaker is a great product, very versatile, but doesn't have long lasting capabilities, externally.  I coated my Colorado 2 months ago and it's still holding up ok. The gloss is amazing too. You can really notice it when you stand right back from it. I've also been using it for my interior trim and find it to be excellent especially on those rainy days when you get rain spots on the door trim when, it doesn't leave water spots.

 

Posted

The MrFix9H buffed off quite nicely and did not leave any smearing. Looked at the windscreen and noticed some build up which I missed in the top middle of the front windscreen. It buffed off very easily with a new microfibre cloth. 

I gave the front and rear windscreens a wipe down with 2 dry microfibre cloths then applied another coat. I have probably applied too thickly onto the application pad so I have used all 30ml of the product. Waiting for the coating to cure before giving it a light buff/wipedown. 

As you have suggested, I will wait before applying the P&S Beadmaker. This will give me more time to get the gazebo setup and to pick a dry non-windy day. 

I used the P&S Paint Coating Surface Prep.

To make the detailers spray, I used Carpro ECH2O [waterless wash] and diluted it 1:15 using distilled water. 

Overall, this has been more of a introductory detailing training exercise for me. Lots of preparation required before actually applying the product. 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, campbeam said:

The MrFix9H buffed off quite nicely and did not leave any smearing. Looked at the windscreen and noticed some build up which I missed in the top middle of the front windscreen. It buffed off very easily with a new microfibre cloth. 

Excellent. Great to hear Ash. Using a fresh microfibre cloth also enhances the clean up process too. Be sure to wash them thoroughly so you can reuse them.

6 minutes ago, campbeam said:

I gave the front and rear windscreens a wipe down with 2 dry microfibre cloths then applied another coat. I have probably applied too thickly onto the application pad so I have used all 30ml of the product. Waiting for the coating to cure before giving it a light buff/wipedown. 

30ml for the windows is too much, yes. Once the applicator pad is saturated after the first couple of passes, you tend to use less as you go because the suede cloth is still wet with product. Usually performing the criss cross method gets the coating down evenly and makes buffing off even easier.

9 minutes ago, campbeam said:

I used the P&S Paint Coating Surface Prep.

Perfect. No problem with that at all. Good call. It can be used as a substitute for isopropyl alcohol.

10 minutes ago, campbeam said:

To make the detailers spray, I used Carpro ECH2O [waterless wash] and diluted it 1:15 using distilled water. 

Overall, this has been more of a introductory detailing training exercise for me. Lots of preparation required before actually applying the product. 

Making your own waterless wash is something everybody should do if they want to as it is by far the most prudent and economical way to have it for way cheaper than a ready made one off the shelf. I have ONR as you know and this can also be diluted down to make detail spray or clay lube. Great stuff.

It's 9/10ths prep and 1/10th application. Good to see you have a go mate. Have fun with it. The best way to approach it is to have meticulous planning and pick the right day and conditions for specific tasks. 

My Parents are stuck in Queensland (visiting my sister), otherwise I'd have my carport already. This will make my life a bit easier and be able to tackle the list of product testing I've been putting off. I'll be sure to post all these up when I can. I haven't forgotten guys. My apologies.

  • Like 1

Posted
On 1/10/2021 at 5:51 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

see how ell the ceramic performs as a stand alone and then apply the Beadmaker.

I decided to thoroughly clean the door window glass then ended up using P&S Beadmaker as the final sealant. 1st coat was done Sunday afternoon and a 2nd coat was applied early this morning.

After waiting the required 8 hours for the Beadmaker to fully cure, I then used the hose to lightly spray the glass for comparative purposes. I was going to say that the Beadmaker outperformed the MrFix9H coating then realised that the windows are essentially vertical and the windscreens are at a reduced angle. This could explain why the water beads were smaller on the windows than the windscreen.

Real test is going to be driving in the rain at 60kph.

Posted

Beading and sheeting of the water is what you need to help avoid those dreaded water spots. When you drive in the rain at speeds above 60, especially on the freeway, the beads just float away as if by magic. I love the visual cue the glass coatings give. Everybody who sees this in my car makes a comment how the water glides away and how wonderful it looks. You'll be very impressed Ashley. Make sure your girlfriend is with you and see her reaction too. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

    3. 0

      Tow bar

    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership