2003 Camry ACV36R Power Steering Pump

[PaulW]

I have a leaking head gasket and need to remove the front timing cover to get the head off.
Almost finished dismantling all the ancillary gear around the front of the 2AZFE engine but can't get to a bolt holding the Power Steering Pump to the engine.
After removing the front engine mount and lowering the engine I was able to get the lower pump mounting bolt off but can't get to the upper one as its behind a chassis rail.
Looking at some of the photos in the Haynes manual, and YouTube videos, they show most of the power steering pump pulley visible and the upper bolt accessible.
In my case it seems the engine is not able to go down far enough to expose the upper bolt, see photos below.

Showing Power Steering Pump Pulley only partially exposed.

Showing driveshaft resting on subframe

The bottom edge of the timing cover/sump also interferes with the subframe.
Is this normal? Is there anything else I need to remove to get the engine to go lower and expose the bolt behind the power steering pump pulley?

Regards

Paul

[Tony Prodigy]

I've not been around this engine all that much to be able to offer a solution, but can I ask what tools you tried using ?

It seems like you're trying to access it with a socket am I right ? Is it possible to slip a ratcheting spanner down in behind the pulley ?

Is that the mounting bracket for the pump and are you able to undo the pump from this bracket or is the pump and bracket all one piece ?

It can't be that difficult surely. I cannot imagine it would call for an engine out solution either. Hopefully someone here who has one of these can chime in.

Hang in there mate, hopefully you'll get some relief soon.

 

[Tony Prodigy]

Have a watch of this. I don't know if it may help but it looks promising

 

[PaulW]

I can just get a 14mm open ended spanner onto the bolt head behind the pulley. I tried to move it but its too tight and I am worried about rounding off the bolt head.
Perusing some of the USA Camry sites I came across a link to "Camry Owners & Service Manuals".

Toyota Camry: Chain (2AZ−FE)(From July, 2003) - Engine mechanical (tcamanual.com)

This is an excellent website with the complete Camry workshop manual, explaining each step in detail with accompanying diagrams.
It says to remove the front engine mount (the one near the radiator). I had taken the top bolt out of mine but not removed the mount.
Maybe this is the thing that's stopping the engine from going down lower and exposing the power steering pump pulley.

Job for tomorrow.

PS Thanks for the video, it confirms I am going in the right direction.

[Tony Prodigy]

4 hours ago, PaulW said:

It says to remove the front engine mount (the one near the radiator). I had taken the top bolt out of mine but not removed the mount.
Maybe this is the thing that's stopping the engine from going down lower and exposing the power steering pump pulley.

Yes, I believe this is the correct way. I did see a video where some guy did this and he was able to remove those two bolts behind the pulley. I just can't seem to find that video right now. You will need to remove the front engine mount.

[PaulW]

Thought I would give an update on the leaking head gasket and power steering pump since its been a while since my last post.
I managed to get the pump out and it was covered in oil and caked on crap. Thinking I had a leaking pump I took it to a specialist in Slacks Creek to see if I could buy a seal kit for it. The owner of the business (Australian CV Joints & Power Steering) advised that a timing case leak was the more likely source of the oil. They tested my pump, no charge, and found it was perfectly OK, saving me time and money.
After a break of a few weeks I decided to get back to the Camry and remove the head but first had to overcome the problem of removing the crankshaft pulley bolt. After many failed attempts I finally got it off using the starter-motor method.

Crankshaft pulley bolt held firm with breaker bar and axle stand before hitting the starter.

When removing the head, 3 head bolts on the inlet side came out real easy, whereas the others all required a long breaker bar to get them out. This confirmed what so many other postings and YouTube videos had warned about, the threads were stripped. I had the head planed and arranged for Mobile Threadfix to come and put some Helicoil inserts in the block.

Block ready for Helicoil inserts

Head after being planed

Yesterday the head went back on with new gasket and new bolts and was correctly tensioned. Also installed the camshafts and timing chain.

Today installed new seal in timing cover for crankshaft pully and reinstalled the timing chain cover (tricky business).

Tomorrow I will start reinstalling the power steering pump, water pump, alternator, etc.

The end is in sight.

[ZZT86]

Did you do any other head work like valves, guides etc ? How about the pistons, rings, bores all OK ? Thought since half the engine is out might as well recondition the whole enchilada ehh ?

[PaulW]

Hi ZZT86

The engine has done just over 200K and apart from the coolant leak due to stripped head bolt threads in the block (known problem) is in good condition. The valves all appear to be in good condition. I inspected the bores and they were fine, no signs of undue wear. Same with the camshafts and journals, all in good condition.
This car is our shopping trolley and will do us for many years to come. When we get to 400K I might think about a complete overhaul and rebore but by then she will be a classic. 

[ZZT86]

OK.

Me ol' man has an 03 Sportivo with same motor, it's an OK donk although his doesn't get driven much with 140K kms since new. Just service it & drive it 😉

[PaulW]

Finally managed to get the engine and all accessories back together again and start her up. 
Good news is engine runs well, gets up to temp, no oil or coolant leaks anywhere.
Took it for a test drive and all was good.

Only problem now is that the idle is too high.
On start up about 1400 RPM, eventually creeping up to 2100 RPM.
Have checked everywhere for possible air leaks but could not find any.
Next I will look at the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve, aka ISC, but I will start a new thread for that issue.

 

[Tony Prodigy]

58 minutes ago, PaulW said:

Finally managed to get the engine and all accessories back together again and start her up. 
Good news is engine runs well, gets up to temp, no oil or coolant leaks anywhere.
Took it for a test drive and all was good.

Only problem now is that the idle is too high.
On start up about 1400 RPM, eventually creeping up to 2100 RPM.
Have checked everywhere for possible air leaks but could not find any.
Next I will look at the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve, aka ISC, but I will start a new thread for that issue.

 

Good to hear Paul. Looks like there's light at the end of the tunnel mate. I would've also thought you could have a small vacuum leak too. Increasing revs as it warms up could indicate an air leak but yes, I would check the idle control valve too. How did you check the vacuum system ? You could make a home made smoke machine and inject smoke intot the vacuum circuit to check again.

Did you have this issue before you pulled it apart ?

[PaulW]

No issues like this before I pulled the head off.
I checked for leaks by spraying throttle body cleaner around any suspect leak areas and listening for an increase in revs.
I have now started a new thread WRT the fast idle issue.