Car vibrating on a stop while in drive mode

[RoiceQ]

Greetings once again.

I'm here creating a post once again, asking for all of your help, my last post was greeted with helpful and an expert opinion (thanks Tony) it's a testament that this forum is really altruistic in helping out a fellow aurion/Camry owner.

I encountered a problem or is it something that I could live with?. Whenever I'm in drive mode, at the same time I put my feet on the break the car seems to vibrate and I could also feel the vibration through the steering wheel, I haven't encountered this problem for the past months but it's quite annoying and concerning but it doesn't vibrate whenever I'm cruising or the car is moving or in neutral or park.

Thanks in advance

[Tony Prodigy]

Sounds like you have bad engine mount/s. The most common one to go bad first is what's called the "dog bone" mount on the upper right of the engine if it's a Camry/Aurion.

I don't recall exactly what car you have and engine configuration to be able to point you in the right direction for the part in question, but have your mechanic inspect all your mounts, including the bottom ones.

My money is on the top dog bone being the main culprit.

[RoiceQ]

I truly appreciate your fast response tony, my car is a 2008 Camry 3.5 v6 (2grfe), with 76000 km on the clock, it's a left hand car and fwd. Yes sir, duly noted on the need to check on my mounts, especially the dog bone part, additional question, how much is the part of ever I would replace it jus my in case it's been identified as the culprit?

[RoiceQ]

Update: I'll keep you guys posted on whatever happens upon inspecting the mounts

Edited September 14, 2022 by RoiceQ

[Tony Prodigy]

10 hours ago, RoiceQ said:

additional question, how much is the part of ever I would replace it jus my in case it's been identified as the culprit?

Take a look on Ebay for sellers in your area or if you have a local Toyota dealer you're comfortable with, it's your choice. Dealer pricing for you will obviously be different to ours (Australia) as you are overseas somewhere (not sure exactly where), but I would definitely check the price from your local dealer for a Genuine part then you can compare to the aftermarket prices online. If there isn't much difference in pricing, I'd always go for Toyota Genuine parts. Toyota would most likely be more expensive, but it's always good to check first. 

Please make sure you enquire with your VIN # so they can cross check the correct fitment. 

You can either opt to do all the engine mounts or just replace the bad one. 

On second thoughts, You did mention a vibration, so I'm tending to think it may also be the front mount too as well as the dog bone. A bad dog bone, will give off a "thud" or "lurching" movement and some vibration, but the front lower mount will give off vibration as it's mounted directly to the front lower crank case section of the engine and this can transfer the engine movements to the chassis if the damper is bad.
If it were my car I'd just do the whole lot so they are new all and even in wear and tear.

Also, for you information, the dogbone mount just on its own is very easy to replace too. You won't need to pay someone if you have a basic DIY approach and some tools of your own. If not, then you can probably ask a friend to help. It's a very simple procedure. To do the rest will involve a bot more dismantling, but anyone with some DIY knowledge and the right tools can do this work.

Here a kit I found in the U.S, which may be helpful to you. Seems like a pretty popular choice for many too. Just make sure you provide your VIN # before purchasing so it's correct.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274138647280?hash=item3fd3efcaf0:g:LHQAAOSwGL9d8VGr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8JAMVnpsdO%2FSyaK2ZU%2BRa5Wt3YQRMhJi1MrsCTMvEgX6%2Bs6KExpCElWSzphQ4TOmxl%2Bqr4cWgJmQzy5WVdfzlsqsfqJC%2F%2BWZf9205POktfO6Y5SH%2F%2BhgX14mDx9VIcp8wcoMaNaKJ4I%2F%2BHWfn4KVWhUCGpSjozXKqzh8zSeqBovl2g%2BNA%2BQc3Q7e1i6N763LO%2BknsenQoFjHp7GCuf7wu5AZqVQ2VxYIF5yuIBz1yKRoCukTPQBwGgb6ZLBP6u0vUpFmVKD%2FUI67ff0wVs4ILOnbGHEqol%2Fs0%2FFTCsq%2FF6%2FWYvXGRDqwT5y2NpbBR4zgVg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM5r7K0udg&frcectupt=true

 

[RoiceQ]

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Take a look on Ebay for sellers in your area or if you have a local Toyota dealer you're comfortable with, it's your choice. Dealer pricing for you will obviously be different to ours (Australia) as you are overseas somewhere (not sure exactly where), but I would definitely check the price from your local dealer for a Genuine part then you can compare to the aftermarket prices online. If there isn't much difference in pricing, I'd always go for Toyota Genuine parts. Toyota would most likely be more expensive, but it's always good to check first. 

Please make sure you enquire with your VIN # so they can cross check the correct fitment. 

You can either opt to do all the engine mounts or just replace the bad one. 

On second thoughts, You did mention a vibration, so I'm tending to think it may also be the front mount too as well as the dog bone. A bad dog bone, will give off a "thud" or "lurching" movement and some vibration, but the front lower mount will give off vibration as it's mounted directly to the front lower crank case section of the engine and this can transfer the engine movements to the chassis if the damper is bad.
If it were my car I'd just do the whole lot so they are new all and even in wear and tear.

Also, for you information, the dogbone mount just on its own is very easy to replace too. You won't need to pay someone if you have a basic DIY approach and some tools of your own. If not, then you can probably ask a friend to help. It's a very simple procedure. To do the rest will involve a bot more dismantling, but anyone with some DIY knowledge and the right tools can do this work.

Here a kit I found in the U.S, which may be helpful to you. Seems like a pretty popular choice for many too. Just make sure you provide your VIN # before purchasing so it's correct.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274138647280?hash=item3fd3efcaf0:g:LHQAAOSwGL9d8VGr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8JAMVnpsdO%2FSyaK2ZU%2BRa5Wt3YQRMhJi1MrsCTMvEgX6%2Bs6KExpCElWSzphQ4TOmxl%2Bqr4cWgJmQzy5WVdfzlsqsfqJC%2F%2BWZf9205POktfO6Y5SH%2F%2BhgX14mDx9VIcp8wcoMaNaKJ4I%2F%2BHWfn4KVWhUCGpSjozXKqzh8zSeqBovl2g%2BNA%2BQc3Q7e1i6N763LO%2BknsenQoFjHp7GCuf7wu5AZqVQ2VxYIF5yuIBz1yKRoCukTPQBwGgb6ZLBP6u0vUpFmVKD%2FUI67ff0wVs4ILOnbGHEqol%2Fs0%2FFTCsq%2FF6%2FWYvXGRDqwT5y2NpbBR4zgVg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM5r7K0udg&frcectupt=true

 

Thank you so much Tony, yes I will abide by your opinion to check the mounts especially those parts that you described, 

[RoiceQ]

On 9/15/2022 at 2:24 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

Take a look on Ebay for sellers in your area or if you have a local Toyota dealer you're comfortable with, it's your choice. Dealer pricing for you will obviously be different to ours (Australia) as you are overseas somewhere (not sure exactly where), but I would definitely check the price from your local dealer for a Genuine part then you can compare to the aftermarket prices online. If there isn't much difference in pricing, I'd always go for Toyota Genuine parts. Toyota would most likely be more expensive, but it's always good to check first. 

Please make sure you enquire with your VIN # so they can cross check the correct fitment. 

You can either opt to do all the engine mounts or just replace the bad one. 

On second thoughts, You did mention a vibration, so I'm tending to think it may also be the front mount too as well as the dog bone. A bad dog bone, will give off a "thud" or "lurching" movement and some vibration, but the front lower mount will give off vibration as it's mounted directly to the front lower crank case section of the engine and this can transfer the engine movements to the chassis if the damper is bad.
If it were my car I'd just do the whole lot so they are new all and even in wear and tear.

Also, for you information, the dogbone mount just on its own is very easy to replace too. You won't need to pay someone if you have a basic DIY approach and some tools of your own. If not, then you can probably ask a friend to help. It's a very simple procedure. To do the rest will involve a bot more dismantling, but anyone with some DIY knowledge and the right tools can do this work.

Here a kit I found in the U.S, which may be helpful to you. Seems like a pretty popular choice for many too. Just make sure you provide your VIN # before purchasing so it's correct.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274138647280?hash=item3fd3efcaf0:g:LHQAAOSwGL9d8VGr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8JAMVnpsdO%2FSyaK2ZU%2BRa5Wt3YQRMhJi1MrsCTMvEgX6%2Bs6KExpCElWSzphQ4TOmxl%2Bqr4cWgJmQzy5WVdfzlsqsfqJC%2F%2BWZf9205POktfO6Y5SH%2F%2BhgX14mDx9VIcp8wcoMaNaKJ4I%2F%2BHWfn4KVWhUCGpSjozXKqzh8zSeqBovl2g%2BNA%2BQc3Q7e1i6N763LO%2BknsenQoFjHp7GCuf7wu5AZqVQ2VxYIF5yuIBz1yKRoCukTPQBwGgb6ZLBP6u0vUpFmVKD%2FUI67ff0wVs4ILOnbGHEqol%2Fs0%2FFTCsq%2FF6%2FWYvXGRDqwT5y2NpbBR4zgVg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM5r7K0udg&frcectupt=true

 

One last question Tony, unfortunately my trusted mechanic is on a vacation leave and I would like to ask, if I could still drive (highway and town) the car even with the problem persisting (there's no damage being done)?

[Henstepper]

Unless your car is overheating or you have a check engine light, its not gonna get any worse. Any vibration through the wheel is normaly only a few issues. either engine mounts, brake/rotor issues, power steering...

 

If the floor is vibrating then it could be the transmission or drive shaft

[RoiceQ]

Thank you Henstepper, got it

[RoiceQ]

Update: I'm quite confused and dumbfounded right now, my mechanic said that all the suspension parts and consumables (motormounts, dampers, and etc) are in good shape and he stated that the culprit could be a camshaft sensor or there's a need for ATF replacement, what is your opinion regarding this @Tony Pr

[RoicyQ]

Update: upon meticulous research from all the data i could  gather from the net, i sufficiently concluded that it might be a normal characteristics for 2grfe to have this occurrence, I Iet my 2 mechanics to inspect the car especially the engine mount and struts but they found no reason to replace it since it is in a good condition, its weird that this problem has to do with the outside temperature, as the vibration shall be more felt in a certain temperature. Changing gas stations didn't do the trick,  i did replace my atf filter and atf fluid but to no avail, even the steering fluid replacement did not alleviate the problem. So i guess i have to live with till i can save up for a 2nd hand is350.

[campbeam]

On 9/14/2022 at 11:15 AM, RoiceQ said:

Greetings once again.

I'm here creating a post once again, asking for all of your help, my last post was greeted with helpful and an expert opinion (thanks Tony) it's a testament that this forum is really altruistic in helping out a fellow aurion/Camry owner.

I encountered a problem or is it something that I could live with?. Whenever I'm in drive mode, at the same time I put my feet on the break the car seems to vibrate and I could also feel the vibration through the steering wheel, I haven't encountered this problem for the past months but it's quite annoying and concerning but it doesn't vibrate whenever I'm cruising or the car is moving or in neutral or park.

Thanks in advance

As per your initial post, you are feeling vibration through the steering wheel when you apply the BRAKES. Have your mechanics checked the braking system and the tyres?

Good starting point would be check the brake rotors and brake pads for uneven wear.

[DanielFi]

Hi peoples, I had a strange similar phenomenon in my 2010 touring after changing the ATF fluid for some Penrite that was suitable for the vehicle. Its a long shot, though when stopped in drive, mostly at lights, waiting to go. I would slip into neutral ( I know you should not do this unless you know its going to be a while waiting), but the vibration stopped. 

The solution was not calculating the correct ATF refill plus some? When I drained the fluid from the pan I was lucky to get three liters, so I put in three liters, and this problem occurred.

I did some research on non toyota and toyota  with this problem and found I had to top up the ATF fluid to about 500-1L and the vibration lessened considerably at stop. After changing the fluid. The amount you get out does not equal the amount you should put in - apparently.

 

The vibration through  the steering wheel may also be the steering uni joint at the firewall needs liquid regrease to stop this. Common on Camrys in a similar year. Some times mine that I have not done this to feels clicky or vibrates funny from the wheel when I turn, or when from full lock. At the idle play zone in the wheel also. Hard to explain really. 

[campbeam]

There is a procedure for changing the ATF in the U660E transmission fitted to the Aurion and other Toyota models. It is available on a few threads in this Forum. Also attached is a Technical Service Bulletin [TSB] presumably sourced from Toyota USA to add an extra 200ml of ATF after following the refill procedure.

You have an interesting solution for your vehicle with vibration due to low ATF level. My past experience with low ATF level for my Oct.2006 Aurion ATX has been rough gear shifts and the vehicle not remaining stationary when stopped on a slight incline. This was years ago before re-read the procedure and did it correctly.

I have also done the quick workaround method of draining the ATF and precisely measuring using a few plastic bottles to replace the equivalent volume +25-50ml without any issue. This assumes that the transmission does not have any leaks.

There should be no idle play in the steering wheel. Generally, this would indicate wear in the steering rack or the tie rod ends. I do periodically grease the intermediate steering shaft u-joint. There is a thread on this Forum about this issue and one solution has been to replace the special bolts sourced from a Toyota dealership.

Best to check the power steering fluid level. Something that I do [annually] is to use a hand pump to empty the fluid in the reservoir, then replace.

[Tony Prodigy]

On 10/1/2022 at 5:31 PM, RoiceQ said:

Update: I'm quite confused and dumbfounded right now, my mechanic said that all the suspension parts and consumables (motormounts, dampers, and etc) are in good shape and he stated that the culprit could be a camshaft sensor or there's a need for ATF replacement, what is your opinion regarding this @Tony Pr

It's a difficult thing to process not being able to see the car. After re reading your opening post, I suspect what you are describing is a rough engine idle rather than rather than a manifestation of a vibration via engine mounts etc..

I don't see how your transmission could be the cause of the vibration if no work had been performed on it previous to the issue arising. If there WAS work done to the transmission, then yes this can be a potential problem if it's over or under filled. You did state that your car has only done 75K Klms, which isn't high enough to warrant the auto transmission service and at this stage I'm assuming it's still on it's factory fill. Being factory filled, there should be no discrepancy with regards to fluid level, hence normal operation, which leads me to believe there is a minor issue at the engine.

It's possibly what your mechanic said, a cam position sensor or either, bad spark plugs, ignition coil or a vacuum leak somewhere. How has your fuel economy been ??

Just a few things to think about as we have no service history for this vehicle from you.

[RoicyQ]

On 3/10/2023 at 4:15 PM, DanielFi said:

Hi peoples, I had a strange similar phenomenon in my 2010 touring after changing the ATF fluid for some Penrite that was suitable for the vehicle. Its a long shot, though when stopped in drive, mostly at lights, waiting to go. I would slip into neutral ( I know you should not do this unless you know its going to be a while waiting), but the vibration stopped. 

The solution was not calculating the correct ATF refill plus some? When I drained the fluid from the pan I was lucky to get three liters, so I put in three liters, and this problem occurred.

I did some research on non toyota and toyota  with this problem and found I had to top up the ATF fluid to about 500-1L and the vibration lessened considerably at stop. After changing the fluid. The amount you get out does not equal the amount you should put in - apparently.

 

The vibration through  the steering wheel may also be the steering uni joint at the firewall needs liquid regrease to stop this. Common on Camrys in a similar year. Some times mine that I have not done this to feels clicky or vibrates funny from the wheel when I turn, or when from full lock. At the idle play zone in the wheel also. Hard to explain really. 

The aurion has a universal joint? I haven't seen it underneath the car, perhaps it could be a culprit also in regards of my heavy steering could you help me out to locate it, thank you in advance

[RoicyQ]

On 3/12/2023 at 4:17 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

It's a difficult thing to process not being able to see the car. After re reading your opening post, I suspect what you are describing is a rough engine idle rather than rather than a manifestation of a vibration via engine mounts etc..

I don't see how your transmission could be the cause of the vibration if no work had been performed on it previous to the issue arising. If there WAS work done to the transmission, then yes this can be a potential problem if it's over or under filled. You did state that your car has only done 75K Klms, which isn't high enough to warrant the auto transmission service and at this stage I'm assuming it's still on it's factory fill. Being factory filled, there should be no discrepancy with regards to fluid level, hence normal operation, which leads me to believe there is a minor issue at the engine.

It's possibly what your mechanic said, a cam position sensor or either, bad spark plugs, ignition coil or a vacuum leak somewhere. How has your fuel economy been ??

Just a few things to think about as we have no service history for this vehicle from you.

Hello and I am grateful for your response,  I already resolve my camshaft position sensor problem by replacing the sensor itself, and there was work already done with the transmission by replacing its filter and doing the drain and refill procedure altogether. Right now the rough idle while in gear is still subsisting 

[Tony Prodigy]

14 hours ago, RoicyQ said:

Right now the rough idle while in gear is still subsisting 

What does your mechanic have to say ?

Does a scan indicate any issue misfire issues ? Possibility of a faulty coil ??

You may also have a head gasket issue. That's a long shot but worth doing a cooling system pressure test.

Fuel injectors could also be a possibility too. 

[Tony Prodigy]

14 hours ago, RoicyQ said:

The aurion has a universal joint?

He was referring to the steering shaft or otherwise known as the intermediate steering shaft.

It has a "knuckle" or universal joint and when this has wear on it, it can transfer vibration back through the steering column.

[RoicyQ]

11 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

What does your mechanic have to say ?

Does a scan indicate any issue misfire issues ? Possibility of a faulty coil ??

You may also have a head gasket issue. That's a long shot but worth doing a cooling system pressure test.

Fuel injectors could also be a possibility too. 

I'll try to do a diagnosis with my mechanic over the weekend and i'll update you all with its developments. In your own opinion, could a fuel injector cleaner bottle be useful for our aurions?

[Tony Prodigy]

7 hours ago, RoicyQ said:

could a fuel injector cleaner bottle be useful for our aurions?

Absolutely. Be sure to use a high quality, reputable brand though for best results.

It's possible you may have got a bad batch of fuel and potentially fouled an injector or some other part of the fuel system. The fuel filter should pick up most of the nasty stuff, but some contamination can pass through in some cases.