123R-Prozak

Lol bro I've already replied to that post, can't pm because inbox is full, and no reply on thread

WTB: Coilovers ZZE123R, max ill pay $400, and ill pickup sydney.

i tried to pm you, inbox full. interested in coilovers. have you still got them? im located in syd. i will pickup !

Usually can't get it into 1st one your off.. And while on subject on gearboxs I have to pull mine out, and strip it, I'll show pics and explain later why..

1st to 2nd crunch? U got stock clutch? Replace it..

As u can see I didn't remove driver drive shaft, was a pain in the *****. Exhaust manifold bolts snapped had to fix them... Alot of muckin around but easy...

from d top :)

W/B

i paid, $80, for 3km... had to pay it.. gearbox blew and had no choice.. as for 35km, idunno say 130 or something, if u can afford a k20 engine conversion, u can afford towing, stop being cheap and do it already

save the $, save for how ever long u need to get a custom exhaust, just dont get a canon, i saw 1 yesterday, great western HWY, at Kingswood station, at subway, auto, it had a canon, worst sound ever....

the front mount bracket on the zze123 and 122 has a slotted section where your main mount bolt goes through the bracket so you can align it to a bit more push or pull load on the engine. when i put it in, i didnt have the motor jacked or anything, the bolt just went through, so thats where it was bolted.

Q. How can it be 'misaligned' ? All mounts only bolt into 1 position and brackets to the motor etc Q. So best go genuine... ? Can't believe I still fix this car even tho I never drive the thing

hmmm... Sounds like an auto problem the way u describe goes away in neutral/reverse

Thanks for that idea.. Just checking - my 'flexible' hose section seems pretty firm to touch - I guess that's just because its full of fluid? It would be fairly old. Any likelihood of it splitting when I clamp it? Steve im kinda lost to be honest, no it wont break, its like ur brake line. just dont clamp it too hard, and Q, why do you wanna check your master cyl? i mean, to be honest i didnt read any1's reply, if u can't select gears get it looked at, and it might be a selector problem for all god knows...

mick.wheelz - STYLSH, you legends

Yes clamp the hydraulic hose from master to slave, vicegrips will do, but I use hose clamps ( it's yellow ), then check if your clutch pedal goes to the floor

If that's all u think u need ur on something looks like a grill support, that metal thing that goes from one headlight to the other to dumb it down also a a/c condensor ( radiator for ur ac to dumb it down ) wouldn't be suprised if u need side quater panels aswell...

I deal with sikaflex at work all the time, but never thought it would be strong enough to handle being a mount to be honest.. Lol

ive got a stainless 2.5pacemaker cat. 2.5 hotdog from ve SS, then it goes stock 2.25.. sounds alright i spose..

yeh we know rear mount was easy actually, pulled it out from the top. were talking about the front, x2 14mm bolts that go from under the cross member, and the ( from memory ) 17mm bolt n nut that goes through the mount to the bracket, and the 14mm bolts that go from the bracked to the gearbox.. also, why would it matter which way it goes? it seems to be the same both ways...

Yer other 3 mounts are fine. I'll double check when I take my gearbox out again within the next few weeks, just need to find out why it's always splitting

ta, I've done my fare share of motors from underneath, but that's with a hoist, at this stage no hoist, a home cash job so the ato doesn't touch it lol so q is, possible from the top? If gearbox comes out first, from top or bottom, then motor out from top...

as topic states, ive got a favour to do for a mate. replace his shot engine in his 99 camry manual. Q is, without agreeing, and looking at the engine bay, is the engine taken from the top, or bottom of the engine bay? AND can it come out with the gearbox? AND is it easy? lol not to sound over the top, but nothing is really 'hard' as im a mechanic, and out of all my years, ive never touched a camry. ive got all tools n engine crane, rattle gun, air ratchet, etcetcetc dont stressss peeps

as the topic states, my front engine mount for my rolla sportivo, has split, now just b4 my gearbox blew, i replaced the front mount, that night, BAM, gearbox went, now 3 weeks after i get it back on the rd, the new mount splits, so i get that replaced under parts warranty, so im on my 3rd mount, and i only replaced it in august.. i replaced both front AND back! only front is giving me greaf, so now im my garage i got a split mount as some know i dont have a licence so car doesnt get driven much, only weekends.. so Q is, why does it keep splittin? should i shuv a mount insert in it or what? MWR has it for $27, but $54 postage ! answers much appreciated :)

if he said he had HIDs then yes they don't dim so i was assuming he had normal halogens because he didn't specify :P also i find that newer cars these days don't need the capacitor unless your running an insane super dooper mad fulli sik computer in your car i had one in my old corty because the alternator output was 35 amps -_- sorry i thought the same thing about the hid's.. but i kinda said it like " hids dont dim " as in i have them and they dont dim, ie get hid's ALREADY !!! haha