Kenshin X

Now from here you can go two ways... one is to replace the green coloured "condom" from the light bulb with the blue one and put it back inside the console But I chose to solder the 12V LEDs instead. note you cannot use the 3V or 5V LEDs because it will blow being the car battery 12V. As stated above, you need to either get a resistor soldered on it or buy one with one already on it. unfortunately I don't know the resistor capacity i'm sure the jaycar or whoever guys will help you out Back to the task at hand... With these LED bulbs Note, being LEDs they have polarity so take care in soldering them on the correct way. It won't damage the circuit board if you get tit the wrong way, it won't just light up. For some reason, the way the circuit was built, all the polarities arent orientated the same for each part across the board. So for your convenience, I have marked the polarities on the board for you It’s up to you to find out the correct polarity on the LEDs. Just hook it up on your battery and see which one it is Now the best way I found to solder these on is on a 250*C and thin solder. You first put a bit of solder on the leads first and then you melt it on the connection on the board. Make sure the bulbs are straight and not crooked when shining into the space. You can try to make the light more uniform by sanding the LED back abit with sanding paper or filer. Also you can solder the LEDs facing towards the back of the circuit board so it bounces off the back of the board then to the LCD screen (this is what I did) You can put abit of insulation tape across to trap the light into the space. White would be the best colour to reflect the light off. Finally when you are done, put everyone back the way it was before! This is the end result... The bright dots were removed but on this pictures its still there as when i revised this guide i didn't take the updated pictures for it. you should know what i mean anyways :) Now for those who are comfortable with finishing up here, that's fine. For those who want to venture more into more complicated stuff read on...

5)Back side view of the wires behind the console (with wires still attached) Note that for the bottom light for the ashtray, u cannot change the colour unless u change the plastic on the ashtray itself... this light bulb is just the normal colour. 6)Pull out the ashtray light 7)Pull out the 3 harnesses that supply power and temperature etc to the LCD screen. There is a clip u depress and then u pull them out 8)Center console should be fully detached from the car 9)Now this is where the fun starts. Bring the console in and sit it on carpet or whatever soft material to protect the fascia. 10) There are 6 screws to remove the top part of the cover only. You dont need to remove them all. Open the cover ...and a close up view of the circuitry remove the 2 screws to move the top circuit out of the way. Note that there are three different globes on the board itself. Numbered 1,2,3... The top corner ones (hazard and passenger safety belt reminder) I won't change as the backing of the cover is already red. Remove the light bulbs from the console. This is a simple twist and pull.

Disclaimer: Neither TOCAU or me take any responsibility if you damage/blow up your car/bbq the electrical components. OK folks as the topic says, this is a revised version of the center console LED modification I posted long ago. This topic has been discussed before but I want to make things more convenient for people, by posting a step by step guide with pictures to changing the colours on the console and other parts in the car. This guide was done on my ZZE123R sportive but I’m sure the facelifts and the other ZZE12x models are similar or the same. In this guide I changed my colours to blue, people can choose whatever colour they wish. Things you need: Phillips head screw driver. 10x LED of the colour you choose (with the appropriate resistors soldered onto or in series with EACH LED bulb) Soldering iron Soldering wick (in case you make boo-boos) Solder (no duh) Polarising filters for LCD screens A very sharp knife Alcohol cleaner for glass Rags First: Removing the Center Console ZZE123R Sportivo 1) Remove the vents on the top of the console by pulling the sides out gently 2)Remove the ashtray by pulling it out and depressing the flap down then pull while flap is down 3)Pull the gear shaft cover out but just rest it down out of the way, u dont need to take it off completely. 4)For the main part of the console, grab the top bits on the sides first and gently pull it until it pops out of place, same on the bottom bits

i suggest powder coating, a cheaper alternative to painting your rims. mansutti bros in tottenham (melbourne west)

check my updated sig :) just realised that the guide was moved to the wrong section in the forus and I have now moved it back to where it should be. i just had a read of the of guide itself and i think i will need to make a few adjustments when i have the time. pictures are too small and people would rather have a link display to external sites so that they dont have to wait for the picture to load when you click on it in the forums. it also doesn't cover the guide itself which can be hell annoying sometimes

i like cake!!!!!!!!!

???

i think mr.sam had them but he sold them awhile back... didnt comment the difference between the ported normal headers or the TRD ones

I just reread ur post again, yes ceramic coating makes a difference.

I can't remember him saying to do it. Its a minute difference though I reckon :P

I have 2 words: DO IT!!!!!! N make sure u make a coffee he is very knowledgeable n will talk alot top bloke that he is!!! :)

Penrite hpr10!!!+Baldwin filter b33 :D

Also the genuine Oils use a semi syn so for the sake of saving a few bucks just get the semi syn oil IMO :P

Ok! N respond to ur PMs!

Hey guys. Here's one for you mechanically sound minded people: What part of the gearbox does the left drive shaft join to? (Front wheel drive and manual) more specifically the stivo gearbox :)

If i were u don't buy the cheap brand oils. U will probably do more harm than good in the long run. I trust u got a quality oil for ur engine?

yep that's nice. oh your mate wouldn't have the same ip address as you would he? oh, also as well as sammy926's?

and while ur at it, take it off and do the black headlight surround mod! Where can I find the black surround headlights for the stivo, any specific places or sites? I've been looking for a while and was going to tint them with crystalite film which is apparently legal. look in the workshop section. and yes dont tint ur headlights/taillights, jacks will deck ya

oh i heard you first time... no need to pm me again to say i'm a "smart *****" :) on another note (yes it's off topic): if you want to sell something, show your appreciation by being a TOCAU supporter. It doesn't cost much and i'm sure selling one (1) of your cold air intake systems will pay for at least two (2) years subscription. I'm (or "we" rather) are all keeping an eye on you and if we see any posts that give even the slightest hint you're selling something when you are not a TOCAU supporter, its getting deleted. no questions asked, no warnings. if u have a problem with this pm box is there (but no spam like the one above please or else you will be ignored). another way to settle this: if you are in melbourne, why dont we sit down for a coffee one day and have a nice friendly discussion about this. your choice. enough said. kenshin out

Wow how many did u have to sell to get an evo9? Bahahaha

not sure but i think it should be like the others where u just push the whole unit forwards or backwards and it should clip out of place. maybe its caked with dust thats why it maybe abit hard to push out

Duy: 1 Mick: 1 now we are even

i would delete this but there is a little bit of information that MAY be useful to some others. So i will close this topic instead.

I use syntrax 75W90 with the nylon G70 additive n it feels ok in cold weather. Other fluids I've had experience in other peoples stivos r the redline MT90 and the redline shockproof gearbox oils. Be sure to pay premium for these though. shockproof as dave said is a bit harsh on the synchros