Kenshin X

just recieved the OBD-II cable from an ebay seller today. i plugged it in my stivo thinking it will work... no it didn't apparently its got something to do with the protocol that came out of SA. why the hell would they do little differences to the model while its still called a zze? cheaper production? whatever! i see it being cheaper keeping all the variances the same! rant over

yes both. once on the track with it and with a few hard shifts from 1st to 2nd now and then. but i haven't crunched/grinded/dragged the gears/clutch since this new clutch and flywheel were put in. i only noticed the sound the sunday before which was well after my track day in march.

get the varex to shut it up :)

alright, i'm going to ask xtreme how their warranty conditions are. but i plan to drive it abit longer to see if it fixes itself. if not, before i track i'm making sure i'm getting it checked out before i do any hard driving. i wana fix things before more things get broken

thats becuz u dont have the stivo anymore

wow i thought gearbox oil only needs to be changed every 30,000km?

thanks mark. I really want my mechanic to crack it open and look at it. guess ill ask him tomorrow. I always thought if the clutch was faulty, the workmanship isn't included as the workmanship is 100% but the clutch. so its not the installers fault so I have to fork out the cash myself?

hey do I know u? u added me as a friend... just joking haha. welcome to the club ;)

Say if there is something wrong with the clutch. Would it be replaced under warantee? Would they cover the labour costs as well or will it come out of my pocket? Also would this be the reason of faulty clutch or human error? I have not crunched any time since I had the new clutch installed. I've only had it under 10,000kms plus only 4 months

final ride height basically only side that i raised is the drivers side front, which was 7mm higher. this keeps a nice even gap around the tyre to the wheel arch. superlows were too low and i was scraping everywhere. dampers set at 17 fronts and 15 rears. camber is set at -0.3 and the toe +1.1mm. still getting used to the corner capability. when track day comes towards the end of the year, i'll be looking at starting at -3 camber and -2.0mm toe with increased dampers and semi-slicks to add to the handling. right now i'm being abit more sensible in regards to mods ;)

hey guys is it normal to hear squeaking over bumps when the dampers are set really stiff? and would i have caused any premature wear on the coils when i did this. basically this is what i did 1) let the springs settle in for 500 kms 2) turn the dampers to 15, was OK 3) then tried 25 and went around the block twice, hearing tiny squeaks over bumps 4) turning back to 0, no more squeaking the squeaking occurs only in the fronts.

Not possible unless u change the front fenders n the front bumper

Mr.Sam's time was 1.45. that's my target. ;)

Im interested in the pushrod because people been saying that it helps with the dragging clutch. Do people still have issue with crunching even after they get an Exedy HD clutch? $150 sounds too cheap haha, where did you get it done? I didn't get the extended push rod installed. Ever since the clutch adjustment and the new clutch I've never dragged/grinded/crunched gears.

thanks for this. is it possible for my mechanic to view it without taking the box off? he looked at it using a tool where he sticks the line with a camera inside a hole to see what was going on inside the clutch when i was engaging the disengaging the clutch. he asked me to crank the engine over but just enough to rotate the clutch/flywheel 180 degrees so it could check the other side. apparently everything is in working order.

ok mechanic looked at it and concluded its not in the clutch assembly. he said it could be the input shaft of the gearbox that's loose...which means... i will need to get a new box... #@%^#$^#$%@$!#$!#%#$^#$ not fixing the old one because of the labour costs and the things that can go wrong AFTER its been fixed. prefer to swap over to a new one and sell this one off to someone who needs internals and such. the thing is when he put a stethoscope to the gear box when it was knocking, he could not hear the noise from inside the box! very confusing. so he isn't sure 100% thats the box. i'm still going in and out of gears ok, sometimes difficult to get into gear (but that was always the case since i bought the car anyways) he said to drive it more and if the noise gets worse, bring it in so they can locate the noise more accurately. his reasoning behind concluding that its the input shaft is that when i'm idle, i put it in gear and then to neutral and let go of the clutch, it makes a "donk" noise. he said the only thing that moves when i clutch out after i put the gear in neutral is the input shaft. after releasing the clutch and then pumping it in neutral, the noise doesn't happen again. so i will keep driving until it gets worse i guess. and live with the noise for now. i'm going to ask for a second opinion and see how that goes...

i bloody hope i dont need it as my car cant have hooks on them =\

welcome to the forums! :D tried your local wrecker?

for 1zzfe or 2zzge engine?