peregrine

yes agreed, you could try running the fan full bast and turning it on and off a few times.Hopefully this might dislodge the leaf or whatever. if that is what it is.

Note on my car 1999 Vienta serviced by dealers since new. they used engine flush run for 10 minutes prior to changing the oil using Magnatec oil a semi synthetic high detergent oil. At 175000+Ks engine still like new so I'll keep it that way, although considering changing to full synthetic. If car has not been treated to proper care then changing procedures can possibly have a bad consequence. For the sake of an extra $20 or so a year, What the hell!!!

Could be one of a number of things but an easy starting point would be to look at the plugs and check the leads. Not knowing your knowledge of mechanics from there on it gets a little more tricky, EI checking fuel delivery, as the system should be under pressure which should be released before checking especially if the motor is hot. A good mechanic should be able to pick up the problem quite cheaply.

first get some rust killer and neutralize the rust, on bigger holes get some fiberglass fly-screen whack some fiberglass or whatever you wish to use to fill the holes (Autobarn and others will help you choose) smear this around the edges on the back of the hole to be fixed, push apiece of screen cut to an appropriate size into it making sure it sits slightly in from the surface to be repaired, when dry place fiberglass or whatever filler you are using shaped approximately to the panel and then work it back with files emery paper etc to the proper shape. That's what I did many years ago and it worked for me. Caution if the rust has weakened or is extensive on a stress panel it should be replaced or have something more substantial done to it for safety sake.

Hi, ever tried to cut a plastic or metal pipe or rod square with simple tools, or wandered how to remove paint from plastic, as most normal methods are likely to damage the plastic or detail on it? Well a simple way to get a square line on a pipe or rod, is to get a sheet of paper that will wrap around the pipe and overlap itself, line up the edges and you have a perfectly square marker. Mark with chalk or if rest is waste spray with left over spray can of paint or what ever and bingo you've got a square line to work from. Getting paint off plastic = unfortunately thinners etc will damage the surface of most plastics so cant be used, however brake fluid comes in plastic containers and is harmless with most plastics, certainly with all I've used but be careful try an edge if unsure and don't use on natural rubber. Soak the item in brake fluid, I usually leave it over night, brush off any stubborn stuff with an old toothbrush, wash with methylated spirits and follow up with a good wash in detergent and water. Another great idea (not for cars ,maybe a Double Decker bus!!!) If staining or painting stairs that are in constant use try painting each second step and use the alternative ones. When dry paint the others and use the dry ones. OOPS who used the wrong step?

What you suggest has its merits and may look cleaner but particularly with cheap oil its doughtful that it will flush out what needs flushing out, the grimy bits that need to be dissolved and removed. Cost of the Nulon engine flush is around $10, perhaps if you add this to the cheap oil you would have the best of both worlds. For flushing thinner is better.

Hi easy way to check airflow and any improvement, place a vacuum gauge before the throttle body, before you do anything, take the car for a run up a steep hill in a low gear on full throttle take your readings (use an assistant) depending on the car this could be any ware from a bad 25 or lower, then check the reading after your intake mods. the bigger the drop the better the improvement. On a car with a very low initial reading very little can be achieved. No change no benefit. If successful you should get more responsive acceleration, increased performance and fuel economy. The better an engine can breath the better it performs. Exhaust back pressure can be checked in much the same way with a pressure gauge stuck in the exhaust where the oxygen sensor normally fits. For more precise findings of the various components on both inlet and exhaust check along the length at various points, before and after each component you want to check by drilling a hole where you need it and later filling it in.

Spoke to Toyota dealership service dept: about this. He told me what they do is add a engine flushing liquid (can be bought from Autobarn or any of the similar outlets under IE Nulon and various other brands) into the oil to be drained, runs the engine for 10 minutes or so drains the oil and then refills with new oil as is usually done. Seems easy enough!

I'll wait for the dyno results first to gauge some figures. I was thinking more of modifying it but keeping equal header length which means having a bend in the pipe still. Anyone with more knowledge on the subject care to explain if there are any advantages to equal header length? Hi Would I be right in believing the critical part of balancing the exhaust for good extraction starts most importantly with the length and being equal, of the 6 primary pipes , with the secondary pipes (being balanced but not necessarily being of equal length not sure about this bit), being preferable but of much less importance.

sounds like if you have a car with a push button start, take full roadside assist IE RACV, NRMA, RACQ or whoever, complete care at least it should get you and your car home or to somewhere safe, most likely without, or maybe minimal cost!!

In respect to this question obviously not, or I wouldn't need to ask the question but I thought someone might have some, more constructive answers, ie the reply they are two completely different engines thanks for that one and others. Are the two engines in fact completely different I find this difficult to believe as costs to do that would I think have been prohibitive, yes there are significant differences and vast improvements but was the basic block changed or altered and if altered can this also be changed on the 3Ltr block ..

Hi thanks for the replies all appreciated and helpful.

Curious! Can the 3Ltr V6 be taken out to 3.5Ltr? Do both engines share the same block? IE: stroke is the same in both at 83mm with bores, being 87.5mm and 94mm respectively so can the 3Ltr block be bored out to 94 mm or can the 3.5 steel liners from the 3.5 be used. would it be straight forward also using the 3.5 s pistons and rings or how many other modification would be necessary. Something to mull over!! MAKE THE CAMRY FLY without boost. I know there are lots of other bits and pieces on the 3.5 like VVT and a chain instead of the belt for the cams etc but that can be left for now. WHAT SAY YOU.

[quote name='SupaTouring' Thanks for your swift response, however I'm quite happy with the existing setup although it would be nice to get rid of the catastrophe you mention. My reason for considering a swap of the Cat is due to the existing Cat I feel having reached its used by date, after over 10 years and 175,000+Ks. So I feel if it has to be replaced, why not take advantage of an upgrade at very little extra cost,if its worthwhile. Might get a quote on that "Y" replacement. You've got me thinking, thanks again.

Hi While the following will probably apply wholly or in part to all other models. My car is a 1999 V6 Vienta with approx 175000 Ks on the clock so considering changing Cat: As I believe this to be the biggest restriction in the exhaust system I am considering fitting a larger say 2.5 or 3 inch inlet, outlet Cat: either hi flow or normal, preferably mettle core. As a change is needed, should be a cheap way of reducing back pressure to gain a little better fuel economy and maybe a smidgen of power without any noticeable increase in exhaust noise. Any constructive suggestions or help appreciated. I expect cost to be around $200 to $300 approx.

If you were satisfied with the performance and quiet running of the Dunlops then stick with them. When your on a good thing stick to it! You could do a lot worse and I suppose, dependent on price you could possibly do a lot better. I had a look at Pirelli, Bridgestone, Mitchelin and others and as a result of the feedback I got, settled for the Dunlops, they are a nice quiet Tyre and use a sylica compound tread excellent in the wet. I was told that Mitchelin were too soft for front wheel drive cars but I know of many others that swear by them as a super very Quiet Tyre. Reports suggested that America was having heeps of trouble with Perelli at that time and figures suggested that the Dunlops were super quiet.

At the price you were quoted it would have to include a full coolant change. Had a quick look at mine 1999 model and looks like all there is , is undo and redo one bolt and undo and redo one hose (plastic pipe) Swap the pipe over quick and pore the coolant from the old bottle into the new one and you won't even need anymore coolant.

I don't think its the sunlight at least not on mine but rather the position of the filler cap,and having to press down on it to close it. Maybe a new original and more care pressing down when replacing filler cap will help ie:make sure the last bit pressed is on the side closest to the edge of the tank.

Yep, somethings wrong with your moonroof. Shouldn't be holding THAT much water. I know you guys have had ****loads of rain but you've got a problem. :P I've had not one issue with mine. Well I thought I did but turns out it was normal. :) Did you close it fully? I notice on mine 1999 Vienta, on reaching fully closed position in sliding mode the moonroof lifts without a pause to the alternative mode. You have to be quick or should there be a pause?

Hi Notice latest Lotus using 3500 V6 Toyota donk gets 206 kilowatts and peek torque of 342nm naturally aspirated.

You did change the oil filter too didn't you? Also worth checking air filter. water level, power steering fluid, brake fluid level, maybe auto trans: fluid level etc which would normally be done on a service. Check for any items that should be done at various kilometers in your service book. Not the service pages but there should be a page (Mine has) giving you things to do at various times and distances. Congratulations on what you have done! Choice of oil is up to ourselves and the way we drive so long as its within the range set out for your car. I and general opinion rests with Synthetic being the better, with several advantages, possible extended time changes etc. But even here there are considerations ie: PAO oils being preferred for long life (Mobil has a strong hold on most of those patents) but don't expect to buy any PAO based oils for less than $70 or so for 5 liters and even at that price it probably only has a reduced PAO base as the stuff is apparently very pricey.