rob323

If the oil is definately gearbox oil then the usual places for it to leak from is where the drive shafts enter the casing. Otherwise the only other places it can leak from is the fill & drain bolts, the joins between the various casings or cracks in the casings. But even those are in the "highly unusual for those kms" category. Sounds like you inherited a 500 000km old drivetrain in a different chassis.

It is very uncommon for an input shaft seal to leak on these boxes, especially at that low kms.

Why do you top your oil up with the engine running?

Roger lost me when he started talking about litigation. Anyone that can't be responsible for their own actions, and then wants to be reimbursed via legal action due to the problems their own stupidity caused, needs to remove their head from their ***** and have a long good look at themselves. Don't feed lawyers, don't feed trolls.

A diesel nozzle is physically larger than an unleaded fuel nozzle. You can't insert it into the filler neck I can't believe you guys let this get to page 5 before bringing this up . Corrosion of the fuel tank...........um Yaris has a plastic fuel tank . But seriously, had I seen Rogercordia's post ealier than now, I would have suggested that because diesel will float on water, that a better solution would have been to stick the garden hose in the fuel filler neck and turn the tap on and let all the diesel rise out and flow back out of the fuel filler neck. Then start the car and have the world's first steam powered yaris for at least 3 seconds until it destroyed the engine permanently.

Is the rattling still there?

Assuming it is a hatch, you need to get a torch, a rubber neck, open the hatch, and bend over and look towards your knees. It's on the inside near the spare and slightly to the right hand side. Just don't do what I did and laugh at the cop while he's trying to look at it.

Not today , but on Saturday, took my car over some big jumps and got lots of air .

Best to take it to someone to have a look and a listen. Trying to diagnose sounds over the net will usually give you a barrage of misleading answers. I'm happy to help if you are in Brissy.

Sort of, but you must do all the prep work properly (sanding between coats etc) for it to come up like the original paintwork. I'm lazy, I just prefer 2pak cause you can get a brilliant finish almost without any sanding or buffing at all straight out of the gun.

There's 4 or 5 bolts and nuts that hold it to the upper plastic part from memory. Carefull, the edges of the metal were quite sharp on mine. Is your paint colour a metallic? (my car is dark metallic blue and the paint code is 8K8, but yours looks a little lighter than mine) If so, you will need to put a clear coat over it to seal it and make it glossy. Rather than setting up the compressor and spray guns (and the mess and hassle of the clean up), I would just get two pressure packs made up in your colour and a can or two of clear and do it that way.

Get underneath it and shine a torch upwards, you will see the bolted connections to the upper plastic part. It comes off easy enough.

What caused the bent valves? Over rev on down shift?

I prefer to use an etch primer or 2pac primer on alloys.

Yes, tyres will make a big difference.

Well that only really leaves the bearings in the strut tops, the lower ball joints, play in the wheel bearings and the two bushes in the lower control arms. Where new/ different bump stops used when the new shocks were put in? Or were the originals re-used? Can you tell if it's coming from the front suspension or the rear?

If you're in Brissy, I'd be happy to have a look at it sometime. I have spare stock suspension here we can play with if we find the problem. Short of flogged out bushes and weight differences, the suspension should be exactly the same. My 1999 Echo was very smooth and soft on the stock suspension.

Springs were basically the same throughout, only the sedans and the sportivos got different ones. Even different makes of tyres and different air pressure in them will affect the ride.

The rear beaver panel is the metal panel behind the plastic bumper bar. If the bumper was pushed in far enough, then the beaver panel might have gotten damaged. To repair that, they normally remove the bumper, unstitch the rear metal panels and replace them with a new one.

locking tsb

That's not so bad. My Echo is 69/31% F/R. But in saying that, the Honda Civic rallying in the ARC at the moment has even had the fuel tank moved forward to put as much weight over the front as possible.

bUY A $20 BLANK FROM EBAY, GET IT CUT TO MATCH YOUR KEY, THEN REPROGRAM IT ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS FOUND ON THE NET. (Woops, sorry about the CAPS everyone).

All they should have done was to change the fuel filter, not the pump. Echo fuel pumps are NOT noisy. Take it back, and back and back until they fix it. Check that the bottom of the fuel tank isn't dented in case it has been pressed up and is now hitting the pump assembly.

In theory, the AC should make no difference to the problem. But maybe the ecu notices the air con being on and advances timing a little to help compensate? Could it be related to random batches of fuel?

Can you feel any resistance whilst turning the dial? It's all cable operated and a bit tricky to follow but if you remove the top of the dash (pretty easy to do), you should be able to track the cable and see what's going on. My guess is that the end of the cable has come detached itself from the main airbox with all the deflectors in it that directs where the air goes to.