rob323

Loaded the rally car on the trailer last night, off up to the International Rally of Queensland tonight straight after work. If anyone comes up to watch and you see an Echo (car 83) being wrung within an inch of it's life, then drop your dacks and bend over and give me a "moon". Then I'll put the in-car up on Youtube and we can play "guess that ****".:P Rallyrallyrallyrallyrallyrallyrallyrallyrallyrally! ;)

Toyota did something like that to me when they replaced the clutch (under warranty) in my Prado. The cause of the vibration was that the dimwits didn't tighten up the nuts holding the front driveshaft to the diff, and one had fallen out and the other 3 were loose.

Wired up some lights.

Undersized or even differentially sizes rotors won't cause a shake. But what caused one to be worn out and not the other?

Sorry we couldn't help get rid of your problem on Saturday. Time for a new D cell battery, woops, I mean fuel pump . I still think it's odd that the assembly rests on the bottom of the tank though, that has to be one avenue for noise to be transmitted.

Put your old rotors on and see if the shaking is gone.

The Australia round of the Asia Pacific Rally Championship is on up at Caloundra and Imbil starting July 30th. Super Special stage around the streets of Caloundra (near Corbould Park) on Friday night (really looking forward to this, it should be a hoot), with rallying out at Imbil and surrounding forests on the Saturday and Sunday. If you go up to the service park at Imbil, wander right down the back to where the plebs are and come and say Hi (or grab a spanner and lend a hand). Representing the Toyota camp will be my Echo and a Group B replica Celica (which my wife is navigating in). Dunno if there will be others as the entry list isn't out yet. Rob.

Before: After (C56 Gearbox with TRD 4.7:1 final drive kit): 1st - 45 km/hr 2nd - 77km/hr 3rd - 105 km/hr Dunno about 4th or 5th yet. The best bit is that the revs only drop from 6200 at redline in 1st to 4000rpm when you change into second. They used to drop down to 3000 rpm which was the cause of the big hole in the power delivery.

We have a full 35 car field this Saturday (even the legend himself, Murray Coote, is having a drive) for Round 3 of a small club rally series. 6 Toyotas in total (5 if I don't get my gearbox back in the car in time - where are those friggin flywheel bolts Mr Toyota ) ranging from a group B replica turbo'd Celica to a Levin, to 4AGE powered Corollas to my gutless Echo. Entry list - http://www.ndscc.asn.au/Northern_District_Sporting_Car_Club/Events/Entries/2010/5/1_ALBION_MOTORSPORT_SPRINTMASTER_2010_files/Entry%20List%20Round%203_1.pdf The rally is on up at Yarraman, a leisurely 2 hour drive north west of Brissy. There is always a really good spectator point which is not far from the main highway and the service park is at the local showgrounds which is on the highway. If anyone wants to come up and see what a good, friendly, club level rally is like, let me know and I'll provide some more specific directions and times. Cheers, Rob.

Yes. The ecu will gradually advance the ignition timing to suit the fuel (some report it to take about 1000kms though) to give you more power & economy, but the minute you throw a tank of normal 91 octane stuff in, it will drag the timing back down immediately and you will have to go through it all again.

Yes, or try it with an ebay key first to save some money. I have heard of people buying ebay keys and coding them successfully. Just curious, how did you damage your key?

No idea sorry. If it works for a Toyota key, then it should work for the ebay key, unless they provide their own instructions on how to do it.

I'm chasing a standard Echo or Yaris airbox, if anyone has one lying around. Cheers, Rob.

If possible, get one that is close to the factory fuel pump. It's not the end of the world if you don't though. If you are still having this problem, do you want me to have a look at it for you?

From one of the diy threads on Ozecho - tsb for reprogramming keys

Finallyfinished assembling my C56/ C150 hybrid close ratio gearbox with lsd and TRD4.7:1 final drive for my Echo rally car. Went to fit my TRD chromemoly flywheel to the car only to find that two of the 6 flywheel bolts have stretched, so hopefully I can get 6 new ones from Toyota today. Then I just have to get everything fitted to the car before the rally on Saturday. Lucky I'm not leaving things to the last minute like usual .

Maybe someone had better explain to the unmarked Ford Territory that Patrols up around Kilcoy that he should fine himself for driving around with his fog lights on at night, and slap himself in the head for sitting right up my ***** for 15 km on the way to Nanango one Friday night.

Bought new bearings for my C56/C150 hybrid close ratio Echo gearbox yesterday, will be taking some of them back to get the correct ones today. I even gave them the old bearings to match and they still stuffed it up <_<. New synchros ordered from Toyota. Stared and drooled over my TRD 4.7:1 final drive kit last night. Man am I going to have sore arms changing gears all the time :D

AE101. ah nice... any reason for the swap? 1.3l = 63kw = not enough power to accelerate up hills in 2nd gear because the standard ge****t drops you to about 3000 rpm in 2nd from redline in 1st. 4.3 final drive in the C56 compared to 3.6 in the C150 Better spread of gear ratios in the C56 compared to the C150. Stronger gears in the C56 compared to the C150 And the C56 will take the more common 8 bolt lsd (6 bolt lsd's for the C150 are like rocking horse poo).

AE101.

They are wrong. The low revs result in low torque, so the load on the ge****t is well below the designed strength. yeah, that is crap... but its not brilliant for your fuel economy... Tell that to the people that have worn the case hardening off 6th gear in Prados because they have been towing in top gear (against the recommendations in the manual). Remember that a gearbox is a torque multiplier, and that the load on the face of the tooth of 6th gear can be quite high even though the engine isn't producing much torque at those revs. And for the fact that it is only a pretty small gear. I agree with it being crap for economy though. An Echo with a C150 shows about the same. 1st - 52 kph (I take it to the rev limit everytime unless going down hill because second gear is too tall) 2nd - 98 kph (pretty useless after 90 kph though) 3rd - 130 something (trees are going by pretty quickly at that speed so I have been watching the road instead of the speedo) 4rd - don't know and don't care, my butt hole is too puckered up after about 150 kph on dirt with huge ***** gum trees flicking by at warp speed. Pretty soon, I hope to be able to tell you what an Echo with a C56 gearbox conversion can do though ;).

Are they torque to yield bolts? If so then did you measure them for stretch? If not, I would be concerned about the rest of them.

Email sent. Thanks.

Installed some more padding to my roll cage to keep the fuzz happy (well, happier anyway). Finally hooked the Terratrip up to the speed signal and calibrated it on an exact kilometre that has been measured out near me.

I have worked in the commercial glazing industry for the last 20 years and you have now pretty much broken every rule in the book. If you find that when you view the glass in the sun, that you have lots of little scratches, then you will need to get some Sirium-oxide powder (also commonly called jeweller's rouge) to polish them out of the glass. And that is hard work. Below is an extract from our Maintenance Manual that we supply for our projects on how to clean glass: