matt36415

It may be worth checking that WS fluid was used, from looking at the USA site 'toyota Nation', it looks like the fluid isnt ok to mix with other brands, look at the Nulon site, they say their fully synthetic atf is ok to use but shouldnt be mixed with toyota fluid. Second, your symptoms sound like what I would expect if the fluid level was too low. If the transmission pan was removed to clean then the mechanic had to loosen off or remove one of the transmission mount bolts. This may not have been replaced or tightened.

Yes, I think there are many filters that fit this kit ($70 from ebay) and the Z9 is the largest one that ryco makes in the High Efficency range, so I assume it also has the largest filter paper

In reading lots about the u660e on toyota nation, I bought this kit and fitted it. I didnt use the supplied filter but chose a ryco Z9 HE, which is massive and the 'HE' means it filters 99% of particles at 20 microns. I think its a synthetic filter material - worth a look on the ryco site. To make sure the fluid level is ok I weighed my clean oil drain pan, took off the hoses to the radiator, caught the dribble and re weighed it at the end. Although the fluid is probably a bit less dense than water ( as oil floats) I added a ml per gram that the pan got heavier by. Also found that the fliter holds 700ml and the longer hoses got an estimate. All up I put 900ml back in, the system now takes approx 800ml more than standard. car has 198 000km, I have removed the pan, cleaned and replaced 2.8litres of fluid about 6000km ago when I got the car as well. The fluid that came out was not clean light red like the new stuff but it was not nearly black either. In the USA the u660e now has a fluid replacement interval of 60 000km from Toyota but the makers,Aisin Warner recommend shorter intervals. Not sure why Toyota here dosent. The trans should also run a little cooled too, as I removed hose of about 25cm length and added about a metre to get to the filter mount point just in front and at the bottom of the radiator.

Do a search on Toyota Nation in the camry thread, their V6 camry is the same drivetrain as the Aurion. There is lots about this issue there.

2007, 198,000km. Mine does the rattle. I read on another forum that if you give the starter a small bump, not enough to start it though and then start it, the noise will be gone. It seems to work

According to the post, yes. I dont think you understood. A normal wheel balance has the wheels taken off the car, put on the wheel balance machine and balanced. An 'on car' wheel balance is done with the car jacked up, wheels still on and then checked using a very different machine. At the Holden dealership I worked at we would sometimes have come backs for wheel balances and the on car machine would often pick up these problems

did you have an on car wheel balance?

No insurance?

Might not be the cheapest way but your dealer can do it

Mot too common I guess, 'someone' smacked my oil sump into a rock... something hard. $377 for the new sump! Havent fitted it, part needed to be ordered. It also uses the sealant rather than a gasket for extra fun cleaning the old stuff off. Will post photos of oil pickup / bottom of engine when I do it

All of the 'inspected' stuff means... we did nothing and charged you. I used to be a Holden mechanic. Often the wheel rotation isnt done either. Wasnt done on my aurion at the last service they did even though it was on the service book page.

There is no dipstick for the transmission. Its "sealed". Without the special toyota tools its not supposed to be looked.

As well as the above comments, you may well overheat the transmission. The TRD version has a trans oil cooler whilt all others do not.

look for the tool on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Oil-Filter-Tool-for-Toyota-Lexus-with-the-3-5L-2GR-FE-engine-series-/370990548535?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5660c28637&_uhb=1

Nice job finding the problem. Impressive.

You could get a new ATX drive away for $29 990 the deal may have ended but thats only 3 thousand more than the new engine. Thats ridiculous

I have had a cel and vsc light on and off for a while, thought it might be poor fuel or loose petrol cap, Replaced battery (probably wasnt needed but it was over 5 years old). After several months I was driving behind my aurion and a brake light was out. When i looked, the wiring connector had come off. I am guessing that it sat in place and bumped into and out of contact as we drove. I plugged it back in and the lights are gone. Is this a possible reason for a CEL? 2009 ATX

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-Auto-Trans-Filter-Service-Kit-KFS989-Trans-U660E-Speed-6-/251422734973?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AAurion&hash=item3a89f67a7d&_uhb=1 I think this is the filter you need, read the listing. This is about what I paid for mine

the kits dont come with a magnet, its just a gasket and filter

I didnt flush it, however I did drop the pan and replace exactly the same amount of fluid that came out, no dramas, that was at 60 000 km. Car is up to 75 000 now. At 100 000 I will do it again. The fluid was not burnt, still an ok colour but not the same as the new WS fluid that went in. It did feel different after the new fluid so something must be breaking down in the fluid by 60000km or the new fluid would have made no noticable difference. I used to work at a holden dealership, much of my job was rebuilding 4l60E boxes. They mainly failed from heat, we didnt see many with high kms at the dealer though. Burned fluid smell is always a bad thing. The rebuild really ment a remove, strip, clean, new seals and friction plates, very occasionally a tinker with the valve body, refit to car, fill and test drive.

Hi, showing my ignorance here, what is the Mayday unit? What does it do? thanks

My thought is that if it was not the battery, the code would probably return and if it was a random thing and not a real problem then I dont care. It has had a fair bit of driving since and no lights, noises etc I suppose my point is that if you get a problem light and there seems to be nothing wrong with the car it might be worth thinking about it a bit before going to a dealer and handing over lots of cash. The price of my new battery was probably less than Toyota would have charged just to read the codes and then have a guess at the possible problem.

Wife had car and the engine light and stability control lights came on. Crap. I call the cel a 'pay Toyota money' light. Did some forum reading here and on Toyota Nation and there are some weird things that cause these lights to come on. So (I know some of these sound odd) I filled up with premium fuel and cleaned fuel cap so it seals properly, fixed tyre pressure so they are all exactly the same, replaced the battery. And... no more lights My guess is that the battery ( original one in a 2009 car) was on the way out. It does seem odd that a battery would cause trouble codes but it seems to be a reasonably common thing. Have driven a few days and no lights have come back on... The mysteries of life

Go over to Toyota Nation and look in the camry forums, search 'sludge'. You will see what lack of oil changes does. Lots of photos. Imagine your blood flowed like honey, you would be stuffed too. Usually there is no going back with sludge, unless it is very minor its more a case of doing very regular oil changes, hoping a lot becaues if you try to flush it somehow bits might get stuck in small oil passages and starve a few bearings... its all bad.

I would never describe the gear changes as violent. Your trans might have a problem.