matt36415

100% bull$#it. In the video he says the hard old belt wears faster. Look at tyres (rather than a belt thats not made to be used in the same way), soft = grippy and short life. Hard normally means lower grip and long life. Tyre ‘rubber’ is a mix of chemicals made up to do a specific job which is not to be filed or the same as a drive belt. If this is true, no wear, then it goes against the normal way every other friction material works. As a good test, spray this on your bike tyres and go for a ride and try the brakes. If wear decreases, grip surely must decrease too. It might be a good product for something else, but not for tyres.

20 000km over the service interval is a lot, 35 000km on one lot of oil. Your engine is quite likley to have sludge forming, possibly pcv gunked up...

Search this forum, there is a good write up on how to fix this problem. Its pretty easy

You could check, does the fan come on when the ac is turned on, it should. There could be a fault there

The sludge and vvt rattle do seem to be fixed or at least significantly improved by using good oil and shorter change intervals. My 2007 had 193000 when I bought it, and the vvt loud rattle on start up. Now at 226000 the rattle never happens after 30000km of 8000km oil changes

Do you mean ‘stickers’ -little signs that go on the window?

I have done the pan drop on my 2aurions and have then done several drain and refills. Its pretty basic. Especially the drain and refill is only as hard as an oil change. Also look on toyota nation at the therads on V6 camrys, lots of people have done it. People panic and stress about it, yes it is an expensive part of a car to break but measuring what comes out and replacing the same amount of fluid just isnt hard.

Take off passenger wheel, there is a small plastic panel towards the front of car from the drive shaft. Behind that is a big bolt / plug, from memory it was about 22mm. It has WS on it. Thats the refill plug.

I think any spray grease with a thin nozzle (like the straws thet come on WD40) would do the job without taking anything apart. It may not last as long as a fix but it would be a 30second job.

Old thread... I just did the fix on my 2007, 225 000km. Didn’t buy thr Toyota kit. Undid the knuckle joint above the spline section of the shaft. Slid the spline section up as far as it goes, cleaned it then pushed wheel bearing grease in around the slide of the spline shaft as I pushed it back in. Refitted the knuckle joint... presto. All good, no more noise.

Old thread.... I posted a while ago at 194000km. Car is now at 225000km and the rattle has been gone for at least a year. Not once, even at minus 5C morning start. I think the car had a poor record of oil changes, probably cheap oil too. I have used fully synthetic 5w 30 or 40 for the last 30000km approx changing at about 7500km or so. I also add Liqui Moly friction reducing MOS2 in each change, half a can. Although there may be some mechanical issue with vvt causing the noise, my conclusion is that its caused by a bit of sludge or at least the start of it. Thats the only reason I can see why mine has ‘fixed’ its self

I have mixed in the Penrite LV in my 2aurions, by now they mainly have the Penrite fluid in them or at least half after 3 drains of 2.8 litres each. Both cars have over 20 000 km since the first Penrite refil, both drive very well

That is exactly what I do. 2.8 litres comes out of my 2 aurions every time. Fluid at last change on my 225,000km 2007 is same as new fluid so I will leave it longer than the 15,000km intervals I was doing.

I changed the filter the first time I changed some fluid, at about 80,000 on one atx and 200,000 on our other one. After that I have just drained fluid via drain hole in pan and replaced that amount. No, I never bother with that, all of the complicated proceedures are just crap. I used to work for a Holden Stealership, admittedly on simpler autos but I did rebuilds for about 5 years. I am firmly of the belief that its just not that complicated. 100ml over or under... I cant say with any proof but I think no. I always err on the side of putting more back in than comes out so I think both of my aurions have above the correct fluid level. I have never done the proceedure to check. However, both function perfectly and my one gets flogged a bit, not my wifes though.

What do you do to clean the oil filter cartridge?

ebay is your friend here. I've seen them there several times

+1 shopping trolley. My atx has 225,000 km and no chips like that

What do you mean by strut tower plates? Cv joints are a prime suspect, as Campbeam said. However if the car has been lowered, shocks replaced... there are a bunch of things that could be too loosely done up. Sway bar links, strut mounts (top). Im assuming the sound is from the front?

Are the trd calipers twin piston? Do you know what the disc size is? Just wondering, I have done the Kluger front swap and an wondering if there is much difference between them and the trd setup

Anyone?Or any experiences with poly bushes generally

Can you describe what happened at the time? Was your foot on brake or acc? Flat ground? Was the acceleration like fully flattening the accelerator? Was car warmed up? Were any of these things the same each time it happened?

I have RDA rotors on the rear. You could take the opportunity to find kluger calipers from a wrecker - I paid $160 for a set off a 2011 kluger, bought discs from ebay - rda also and its all a direct fit. No cutting, forcing... it all just fits exactly. The only catch is wheel size. I have 18 inch, I think they fit in 17s too. 2 piston calipers, larger discs.

After approx 300km and 2 weeks the ride height is 5-8mm higher than with the very old shocks, From measuring both tyre to guard and ground to guard its 8mm higher in front and 5mm rear. I also dont get the front lip scraping on a driveway I go into almost every day and it used to scrape every time even when going super slow. So the shocks (or a magic unicorn) has made the car a little higher even after its all had a chance to settle in.

Has anyone fitted poly control arm bushes? Just wondering if anyone has experience with these. Do they change the feel? Directness of steering? Other changes...? Nolethane sell control arms with their bushes fitted, just wondering if there is any benefit - Im sure mine are original 220 000 km old.

So your theory... as posted has to be right? Im just looking at what has actually happened. Saying its not possible does not change the reality that my car sits higher. I was a mechanic, the parts are all seated properly... it drives nicely. The shaft on shocks will extend because of the gas pressure inside. On the old ones the force of this was quite small but on the new shocks the shafts only pushed up slowly but quite a lot of force was needed to push them back in. That is where I thing the extra height comes from - that is my guess, that the car is higher is definitely real.