matt36415

Im not concerned about the height, it was just an unexpected change. After 3 days the rear seems to be back roughly whaer it was and the front is almost there too. There is no bottoming out, the ride is good, no noises etc. Main reason for sharing originally was just that it was not a change that I expected - and others may encounter the same thing.

kyb Excell G shocks. Via Ebay, $290 for front pair, same price for rear. Shipped. I think the shocks I replaced were the original ones, they had Toyota - made in Thailand - stamped in the metal. Some rust... So a 222 000km life. They may have been replaced with OEM ones but I dont think many people would pay for original shocks.

I didnt expect this, when I googled the issue, lots of people on other forums say it is not possible but.... I replaced the original shocks on my 2007 V6, 222 000km. The car now sits an inch higher than it did with the old shocks. The car has been on lowered springs for a year and I kept these same springs. I did this today so I guess it might drop back down over a few days, I dont know. The only reason I can think of is that I could easily push the rod back down into the old shocks but on the new kyb shocks, that was much harder. Odd.

Have you looked at the tread yourself? Or had a slightly knowledgeable friend look at them? Many shops will tell people they need new tyres when its just not true. I ask because of the small distance you've driven on them and that you say that you have been told they need replacing.

Essentially the same..... or exactly the same. In all other markets its a 4 or 6 cylinder camry. Its like when Toyota tried to tell us that the Avalon was a large car - really a camry with different bolt on body panels.

tyre pressure significantly effects fuel use. Higher pressure gives less rolling resistance and lower fuel use. Its the exact reason cyclists run 100-120psi on road bicycles. This may account for some of your decrease in milage.

My 2007 with 219 000km runs nicely. It had not been maintained too well and it made the horrible vvt noise on startup. After a year and 3 oil changes with synthetic oil the noises became intermittent and then non existant. I think this problem was an oil problem like yours seems to be. I have a 2009 with 115 000km which Mrs has had from new and the 2007 that I have had for 3 years. Apart from service items, neither one has had any problems or parts needing to be replaced

I have a 2007 and a 2009 post facelift model and the sear is lower in the 2007 than the 09.

👍thanks.

This thread has pictures I took of the filter etc. Another good source of info is the toyota nation forum. The USA V6 camry is the same car and they have lots of info there. Search.

Aurion rotor on top of kluger rotor. Brakes fitted. Every part was an exact fit. Caliper bracket exactly fits the hub, Rotors exactly fit the stud pattern. Hose fitting fits the kluger caliper exactly.. in short, it all fits. To bleed the new calipers I loosened each bleed screw after putting a clear tube on. They bubbled for a bit then mainly fluid with some bubbles came out then after pushing the pedal to the floor about 9-10 times for each side no more bubbles came out. Closed up bleed screws. Wheels on. Slow drive to test and bed in new pads and rotors. All good. I used just under 2 500ml bottles of dot 3 fluid. There is plenty of space inside my 18 inch rims. The diffculty is only as hard as changing pads and bleeding brakes. Based on 1 slow, short drive the brakes feel similar to before the change which should be the case. Pads are similar to oem, nothing special. Happy to answer any questions. Its just not that hard.

$1500 for pads and rotors is just stupid. Even if its front and rear thats silly. Calipers from 2011 Kluger $160 Rebuild kit $30 3 bottles of fluid rotors rda $190 pads $80.. I enjoy doing it all myself so zero labour cost. Caliper rebuilt, brakes go on tomorrow hopefully

Im 'rebuilding' the calipers. Both piston boots were cut on one of them so I pulled them apart and cleaned everything up. A new seal kit is on the way. Rebuilding is a pretty generous term. Its just replacing seals. 1, to get pistons out I put a small air compressor hose into the hole that the brake hose fits into, at about 45 - 50 psi one piston came out, the other was almost out and could be pulled out by hand. if you do this make sure you put wadded up cloth in front of the pistons, 50psi means that when they pop out its fast - dont put fingers in the way. 2, the inner seal that sits in the grove in pic 2 just sits in the grove, removed with fingers. The outter boot has a metal ring in it and its a pressed in fit. Once I worked that out I could easily get them out with a skewer. There was rust coloured water / brake fluid in the seal that had the damaged boot but the pistons and bore all look good.

I have more photos but cant post. is there a way to make space for more pics on my profile?

Havent got rotors yet but did a test fit to make sure I wasnt wasting money buying rotors if the calipers didnt fit. They fit exactly and easily. Fitting them is exactly the same as fitting new pads, just one extra bolt needs removing. That was to test fit. To fit properly will need the hose and bleeding too. Top pic shows caliper fitted over aurion standard disc. Lower pic shows caliper and bracket from 2007-2014 kluger. That is what I bought for $80 each. I also bought disce and pads new.

Good idea, thanks. I have the calipers so might pull off one wheel and caliper to test fit before buying rotors and pads.. Will probably post photos too, assuming it all works.

Lovely. I get calipers tomorrow but need to wait a bit for new discs and pads to fit them.

Brilliant. Thanks for the reply. Ive found calipers for $160. Might get new rotors and pads though. I have 18 inch rims. Im guessing thats probably big enough. Could anyone who has done the swap confirm that?

What years Kluger did your calipers... come from? Just thinking about doing this and wondered if the manufacture year of the donor Kluger matters

This is probably a silly question.... With Kluger front brakes, could the stock Aurion front brakes be used on the rear wheels? I have not tried or checked fitting... Just wondering.

My ATX has certainly improved with some alterations. - removed all wheel arch liners and painted Septone underbody deadener on the exposed body panels. Its quite thick. - painted underbody deadener under spare wheel storage area. - stuck butyl sound deadener on approx 50% of inside boot area and under rear seat. - filled side boot cavities (up high outside the boot hinges) with expanding foam - lined all metal inside boot with rubber backed nylon carpet. Stuck down with silicone. - covered underside of rear parcel shelf with 10mm closed cell foam - added 2 screws holding parcel shelf firmly down to the metal panel to eliminate rattles. - covered parcel shelf with same nylon carpet as boot lined with. - lined glove box with same carpet. I have not done anything to the doors. Just ran out of motivation. Have sheets of 10mm closed cell foam to line door panels with. It was a lot of time but the car now has no rattles and feels more solid. - or sounds more solid. Its quieter.

Thanks - im in Orange NSW. Iwent with king low springs and kyb shocks. I was nervous about the life of the coilovers and they were $1000 more than the new spring and shock combo.

Auri7, Im assuming you have the factory wheel / tyre sizes. Apart from sticking, I want low fuel use so I go a bit higher pressure than most. Ive heard commentators on V8 supercars discuss tyre pressure and I think they agreed with you, 1 psi is important. My 235/40/18 tyres are also a significantly different shape in cross section to the standard tyres so there is probably difference there too.

I go 42 front and 38 rear on 235/40/18 tyres. That and fat sway bars keep it very flat on corners.

My ATX with the V brace is 2007. I think the NVH and sport handling are oposing goals - probably unless you add lots of cash. Im sure Bentley can manage it. Mine isnt horribly loud. I just enjoy tinkering. I used to be a Holden mechanic, now school teacher with long Christmas holidays and Ive never tried noise reduction myself so Im having a go.