Auri 7

You should've got a service book, in which all those services were registered and signed. Have a proper look at it first. If you didn't get the book, you can go to the service centre, where it was serviced, and ask them to show you duplicates of the service slips (which they are supposed to tear off and keep). They also transfer the data to the computer for headquarters to keep records. Their response will show you, whether it's worthwhile sticking with them. You could also go back to the seller (if possible) and ask him, whether he's still got the service book. The booklet will tell you, what service is done at what point. Btw, the Aurions "standard" service interval is 15000 km or 9 months, whatever comes first. If the car was indeed serviced at the claimed 10000km intervals, the owner would've been keen to show and pass on the service book, I would've thought. Maybe you just missed it. Have a look at the silver manual/service booklet folder. A service every 6 months since 2008 would mean at least 10 services. That would've been mostly just oil changes. You may want to enquire, whether the aircon filter was ever changed for example. Do you feel a slight knock in the steering, when you go over dips slowly? Check out the intermediate shaft problems of Aurions (google or search here). Check your oil colour on your dip stick: Is it clean, like new? How do your brakes feel ? Spongy or tight ? etc. If all is indeed 1A perfect and you trust the service centre, then you can leave it to them. The next bigger service is at 75000 km (not too much bigger). It's the 90000 km, which is the heavy one. Good luck and welcome to the club !

If it's the intermediate shaft, they will probably replace it for free, as it was/is a known issue.

Don't know about the 2013, but my 2010 speed alert is in the top centre dash combined with the car clock. You'll see some up and down arrows and a menu or such (haven't used it in ages, because it used to annoy me). By memory, it has 3 presets, all adjustable, going up and down in 5 km/h segments. So you could set one for 60, one for 80 and one for 110 for example.

I used to play my mp3s off a Sandisk micro 8 GB cruzer without problems. (2010 Touring). Nowadays I just do bluetoth with my iPhone.

Hi Aurion 09, I replaced my original Michelin Energy tyres with Michelin Primacy 3 ST. They are a lot quieter than the old ones. I can recommend them.

You're easily put off by sliding floor mats? What about the steering, do you have your tyres adjusted to optimal pressure? That can make quite a difference, also the brand and quality of the tyres plus wheel alignment. I must admit, I haven't driven the new series yet, I'm still on the 2010 model and would be interested in other people's opinion on your quality complaints as well. How's the kickdown/acceleration delay? Are the improvements they've made noticeable? That's something I want to check out, before I'll trade up. Which car are you planning to go to next, after the Aurion? Edit: Btw, as for floormats, I bought aftermarket (Super Cheap Auto) and glued a short piece of Velcro on each surface. They never move now and can be easily taken out and cleaned.

I noticed, that the Aurion Touring SE has disappeared from Toyota's website. It used to be a permanent fixture since 2010 or earlier. Can any insider shed some light on this ? Thanks.

Ok, had to enable the upload in settings first

To locate my boot leak (RHS tool pocket), I used strips of blotting paper to locate the actual leaking area. I kept the strips short to avoid them touching each other for pinpoint location (used small bits of tape to attach them). The image shows the location. Edit: the image attachment doesn't seem to get here. How to upload ?

I like your wheels. You just need a nice, dark window tint now.

My personal opinion only: As Ford have already stated to go away from RWD and go AWD instead, my bet is, that Toyota are chewing on the AWD idea very very hard. Why would they want to fall behind Ford in the sixes stakes? There might even be a normal FWD Aurion (facelifted) and then an AWD TRD on top, who knows? But the original idea of just doing a 2012 facelift/internal improvement model might be well out of the window with Ford's recent announcement.

Thanks, Adrian, yes, your post was quite helpful. I have a dilemma with the "on-glass" type antenna, because of a metal tint I've aquired for all windows except the front one. I've all but given up on the glass antenna idea, because the only 2 places I could mount them would be front top right or front top left windscreen corner, because of the central dotted area and washer sensors etc. in the middle. I also had a look at the "see-through" inside stick-on antennas, but the small one is too weak and the larger one too big for the front screen, and I guess illegal. A bracket doesn't do it for me either, so I'm still undecided. I'll look into the centre roof option next, I hadn't even considered this. I dread having a hole in there, but it would present the best reception, of course. Which pillar did they push the cable down ? (I guess, the centre one ?) I wonder, how hard it might be to undo roof and pillar linings. Thanks again for your post !

I'm interested to hear, where you guys have mounted your CB (UHF) antennas and how hard it was to cable them. I'm probably looking for a low profile position like an induction glass antenna, but would like to hear about any other solutions as well. Thanks !

Have you thought about incorporating a brake LED into the ducktail ? You wouldn't have to re-route the existing cable.

Apparently it concerns the master brake cylinder leaking on some models. Other models have problems with a plug on the fuel pump. The news say, that 1.5 million cars are affected, 740000 in the US, 600000 in Japan, the rest elsewhere. Affected models mentioned are: Lexus, Avalon, Crown (generally higher end models). I haven't read about the Aurion yet.

On each side of your boot in the area where the car jack is stored and the same place on the opposite side, you will find a vent like this: For lack of a better photo, you can see the opposite side here with the bumper removed: Thanks, DJKOR for the excellent info and pictures, much appreciated !

That's the exact cause on mine aswell. Had it checked yesterday and low and behold. It's coming in from there. So they're replacing the vent and putting stuff to seal it around it too. I found this topic in a search today. Where is this boot vent, and what does it look like ? Thanks!

Thanks, seifer, for the info. I'll keep an eye on it for a while and talk to the techs, when I see them next. I'll report back, when I have some news. Cheers.

I'd be happy, if it was placebo (as long as I knew, lol). Airconditioning: always on. Fuel quality: could've been a factor at some stage (see other post). coolant temperature: not likely, as I drive for hours. That leaves the noticeable difference between "before" and "after". It also leaves the gauge sitting at just under 800, where in the first week or two it sat at just under 700. What do other peoples gauges show? (Not that an in-car gauge will always be correct).

I don't know for sure, whether he did any adjustments. The difference after the service was so noticeable, I just assumed it. I'll have a chat to them, when I get there next.

For reference, the service specification for the 2GR-FE idle speed in neutral is 600-700RPM. And out of curiosity, what did your technician do to increase the idle revs? The 2GR is set to automatically control it's idle within original specification with no intention for adjustment. The Idle Control System (ICS) component of the Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) actually monitors the idle RPM to ensure that it is within specification and if it is too far out of specification, you will end up with a MIL/CEL. Thanks for the quick answer, DJKOR ! I'll monitor it for a week or two and see, how I go. Initially my engine died off a couple of times per week (idling), so I guess the technician noticed a low idle speed. I also got caught out on E10 once, which could've made a difference. (no more BP for me, since they don't mark their bowsers properly, the sneaks). Anyway, thanks for the info !

Hi guys, I'm new here. I have been lurking for a couple of months since I got my Aurion SE, and I've picked up some good hints and helpers for the future already. I absolutely love the car. On topic: I've noticed, that my technician had upped my idle revs slightly after the first service. This has some advantages, some disadvantages, and I'm in two minds as where I should settle down at. Pros of HIGHER idling revs: - smoother start off the line. Cons of HIGHER idling revs: - slightly more fuel consumption. - less engine braking - therefore more footwork needed - more brake usage. This is also evident while driving with Cruise Control engaged. The car likes to run away downhills more than at lower idling revs. Pros of LOWER idling revs: - more engine braking, when foot off the accelerator, (gears even auto-switch down, which I quite liked). Cons of LOWER idling revs: - a slight "stutter" has to be overcome on takeoff. ATM my idle sits at just under 800 (warm engine), just looking at the analogue gauge. I'd love to hear about your idle speeds, or your preferences, or maybe some info on official service settings. Cheers !