Blackzze

hey ilivfor6, Its great to hear that it really is THAT much better :D I'm more than interested myself, can you tell me 2 things? 1. Is the clutch much heavier? 2. I know this can vary wildly, but roughly how much for install?, and would you recommend anyone in melb to do the work? Thanks in advance.

There is no actual toyota factory sunroof for the corolla range in oz. They are all outsourced by approved local outfits (in case of Vic, it is done in Bayswater), and in that case, there is a sunroof available for our corollas, as in all corollas, and carries a full toyota warranty, but all corollas get done in bayswater if there sold in melbourne with a sunroof. I got quoted $2500 myself for a roof in my sportivo (Brighton Toyota)

Ive had the calipers off, and there clean pads in there..... I'm actullay thinking thr grumble in my front right may be a wheel bearing perhaps.

The ANGLE on that rear wing would knock off at least 10kph to the top speed It wouldnt be a 220kph+ corolla anymore :( Agreed Lucio???? :D :D :D

I have a rumble when coming to a stop from around 20kph (intermittent) and I also have the shudder (warped fromt discs). There is a link to bigger brakes 1 or 2 pages back. I'm currentley investigating a brake upgrade for the stivo (save for the $3500 systems), and will post more info (incl prices and avail) soon. The setup could be using celica discs (even thou they are 5 stud) I'm aiming for a decent upgrade for less than $2k.

Black is THE choice for me It is like a really nice chick: high maintence but wicked to look at :D :D Silver with black windows is a really classy look, and heaps less washing (hides the dirt well) ;) Depends on what you are after, I don't regret getting black :D and when you give it a nice polish :o As far as extra cleaning goes, if you dont need it absolutley mint, a trip to the car wash and a blast with the suds gun, followed by a rinse (NO BRUSH) keeps it neat, with a wash every couple weeks.

IZZ-FE, Nice signature, do you leave your melways and water at home when your going to the drags???? hope so, the extra weight (even in the stivo) is a killer :D :D

I always blast arount the front/rear calipers to get rid of any gunk in there, I don;t know if it helps, but it can't do any harm :D

Hey everyone, the brake noise is caused by the discs building up a rusty 'scale' on the surface area. This is caused by : Moisture in the air, and is more pronounced by either having cold/moist conditions, and/or leaving the car for a few days. This can happen literally overnight if it is wet!!! All it needs to clean the discs is a decent drive :D :D Unless you change the discs to a different make, it will keep happening, and its down to the steel toyota uses. You will notice many brands of cars dicsc seem to "rust up" very quickly, and it is just one of those things. Even changing discs is no sure measure, as some "rust up" and some don't. The reason it is more pronounced in reverse, is that the pads wear in a 'foward' direction, so reverse would make more noise with the scaling on the disc cos the pads are going against their natural direction. I have it as well, and it is just "one of those things".

I hired an auto Ascent in Cairns, and flogged it up the road to Kuranda (10 minute each-way fang), and it held together pretty well- authough, I had the auto locked into second.. ;) for the engine braking as well :P :P But fundamentally, the ascent has less power & skinnier tyres.... my corner speeds, and critically- my corner arrival speeds.... were much lower. And yes, under warranty :D

Hey Everyone, I know I'm a little hard at times on my brakes, but the constant shimmer I have (they have been skimmed twice at service) leads me to believe that the Stivo brake discs are too small. I priced an A.P. setup for my car, $3200 Would anyone have an Idea if there is a reasonably priced way to upgrade the front discs to something larger, perhaps with twin pot front calipers. I'm not after a full race setup, just a good set to cope with the odd mountain charge and the like. I have tried PBR, and they don't do discs to suit our cars (original spec they do, but no high performance). I know brakes aren't cheap to upgrade, but if I could find something for even a bit under 2k$, I'd be interested...... any suggestions??

It's just cheap prevention. During manufacture of the engine, grime or just the coatings parts come in can wear off fast during operation, and make the first run of oil (or two) go dirty quite quickly, so for the sake of an oil and filter change, it's cheap insurance. With the 2zzge in the lotus Exige, they run the engine on MINERAL oil for thhe first 1000miles, and strictly recommend no revs over 4,500rpm! I have the article and will do a full post tommrow.

I'll second that. ;) If you want ANY hope of landing back in lift, you have to shift above 8000rpm. Otherwise it's an eternity until you get back there.

I'd also suggest changing the oil and filter at 5,000k's, If you didn't change it at 1,000klm (you have to ask the dealer to do this).

Richi, I'm under the impression most Toyota dealers use the toyota vvtl-i oil, which is a semi synthetic, and some smaller dealers may choose to use their own spec of oil- ie the castrol full synthetic. I only change the oil every 10,000, but I give them mobil 1 to put in, being a good oil, it runs to 10,000 no dramas. If I was changing oil every 5,000, I'd go for a good quality semi synthetic. But oil's a personal choice!! :P

Not to be critical to kcorro, Tyre placards state pressures usually for (in order of importance): comfort, noise, handling and life. If you wanted to shift that order of priority around, you need to go up in PSI.

I will add: Sporthatch141, I think you will constantly notice a small drop in performance as the oil gets the kays up. When mine is getting close to service (say around 7 to 8000 kays) the power does drop off just slightly, but enuf to notice!! Change oil and wow, the maximum buzz is back :P Also, did you change your oil at 1,000kays??

I'll second that lucio, My Stivo has covered 35000k's and the shift is often hard from 1 to 2, and I have started to notice, mabye twice a week, I can't get it into ANY gear from a standstill. No Gears at ALL

I run 36psi front, and 34psi rear- 2 psi less coz the back skates around a little when cornering on bumpy roads (surburban and outer urban) and a little less makes for more bite. I'd go for 36 front and rear if your high speed driving is mostly smooth. I believe this pressure gives the best compromise between: wet grip, cornering grip (without too much sidewall roll) and tyre life. My car has coverd 34500 kays, and I reckon I will get 40k out of the set of factory tyres, which I think is pretty fair, as the kays have not always been the 'tyre friendly' kind :P Tyre pressures are a personal thing!! Thats just my 10c worth, I'd be interested to hear what others are running, and why.

Put me there :D :D My tyres are almost due for replacement so why not?? :P

Hey IZZ-FE, I meant no offence :o I just havent seen your car "at pace" yet :D DANZ i have seen at pace So thats why I'm there to see this one between you two. B)

Lotus has same power and torque. Lotus did a complete remap of the ECU for more driveability. The midrange is phat and the change to lift is much smoother, and without that one third of a second 'wait' for it to kick in.

Peekay, Thanks for publishing the sheet. I was a little miffed when scrolling thru the old forums last week and checked the "unichip thread" and realised you hadn't given the figures yet. For me, It's far from just 'the numbers'. What this forum is about to me is the sharing of information. While it's good for peekay to say it is a big improvement, (and I wholly believe him) its nice to see a graph of WHERE the gains are made, and how much of the 'mid range hole' it fills in. This allows us other guys to see if in our OWN opinion it is worth the money to get it done- what suits me for performance may not suit Egene for performance etc. And of course, it is good to see the numbers as well So lets not start 'number wars' and respect each and everyones own set of figures, if they choose to post them. Just my 10c worth.

That is an old article...... I read it 18 months ago, and I will say that a 9,000 DOWNCHANGE (as has been spoken about already on this forum) is bound to bend valvesprings. This problem has happend, and can happen, due to the high rev nature of our engines. Any engine that goes to or above 8,000rpm has to have many changes made to inertia of parts, as physically speaking in common engineering, you hit 'a brick wall at 8,000 rpm'. So, these changes (incl valvesprings) need to be treated with respect IE: no 2nd gear downchange at 115km/h!!!

I'm there to see that!! :D :D Danz 1zz is damm fast B)