Blackzze

Ascents dont have seat airbags. I would get this checked TOMMROW, as there could be fuel dumping into your exhaust (oxygen sensor?) and could be making it run much hotter. This will stuff your cat and mabye exhaust. If you feel warm and you can smell fuel........heat AND fuel just don't mix....... I'd drive it straight to the workshop dude.

That's because the Levin has side airbags.

Buddha The stivo front discs are about 24 mm bigger than 1zzfe corollas. Rears are the same as 1zzfe. From what I hear, they are a jap-spec celicaGT front caliper and disc set (parts-bin special).

My 'fiddy cent' worth, After 2 years of sportivo ownership, if you live in Melbourne, DO NOT go to "Australia's Largest Toyota Dealer", they don't even keep front pads for the sportivo in stock (I even went in 10 days b4 the service to book it AND informed them that the front pads needed changing!) I get mine serviced by Rick Wollany in werribee I must say, I will not normally do a speciific plug for anybody in the servicing game, as it CAN VARY from customer to customer, but I tried at my local "big" dealer FIVE TIMES, and I really think this warrants a mention, as it is all facts. 1. Twice i have waited over 45 minuutes (after announcing my arrival to the service desk to collect my car), for them to get my invoice and "explain" what they did to my car for the service, oh and both times my car was sitting there ready to go. 2. They don't stock brake pads. 3. Their basic service labour charge is OVER 35% more than Rick Wollany. 4. When I give them 5 litres of Mobil 1, and the car takes 4.5L with a new filter, they keep the rest of the oil........ Which I would normally use as a top-up between services. Ricks give it back 5. If you give Ricks 3 to 4 weeks notice, they will collect ur car free (no joke here) at home or work, leave a crapped out echo (if you need to use it then you pay them to use it, or if it sits there it free) and pick it up am and have it back to you by 5 ,or at worst, 6pm. 6. Ricks don't put a FAT MARGIN on a front-end alignment that gets out-sourced to the local tyre dude. AND whoever does it for Ricks does a damn fine job- my car has never tracked straighter (or felt better through the steering wheel) since it was new. 7. I have only had 1 service so far (50,000), and my second service at Rick's is booked in 4 weeks, but the car felt great after i got it back from the 50k srevice. All I can say is give them a call and get a service price for yourself. It varies from service to service, as '05 could be different $$ from '03. I BELIEVE you should change the oil and filter at 1000km (you have to ask for this specifically). If you want to see for your self, buy a couple of neo magnets (10 or 20c size) from a local magnet dealer and stick them on the sides of the filter on opposite sides the day you get your car and do the 1000k filter and oil your self, cut the filter open where the magnets are and check the s h i t that's stuck there....... and if your keen try it for the next 9000ks too, or even ask them just to drain the fiilter and give it back to you.

As I said, the relays in our corolla are fine for the headlights, but if you want to make a real improvement, try bigger wire to the headlights.

Oh, and its supposed to be on all the time, it might be a good idea if they spent another $4 (inc cable) and put a switch there, so it actullay had a purpose. I wonder if the jap sedans have it there as a 'door open' switch? Marcus......

The pre facelift has it too, so doez the base models. The arrow to the left of the light, pointing to the left, also tells you what side the fuel door is on, so you dont have to rember. If you also park close enough to the pump at fill up time, it doesnt matter what side of the pump you pull up on, the hose reaches across the boot without even touching the car!!! That renders the fuel door light utterley pointless and annoying. If my dash ever has to come apart, thats the first thing I will disconnect.

Sorry to offend you ADR, but if the numbers are written for verification, or printed for that matter, what's the diff??? The graph has a scale on the side to read off, no problems. If silva has an older dyno, and needs to write the figures in, whats' the diff?? Dynos vary from one to another anyway, so read the graph, and that will tell you the power AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, writing or not, I want to see the curve of the graph (as many of us do) to show me the torque difference. An old dyno is still doing it properley ADR, silva isn't trying to bull**** us with written figures. He has done it properley by putting it on the dyno in the first place. Old dyno or new dyno, they all vary, and a printed power figure is not going to tell us anything different from a written one, and it isn't going to give any more cred with me if it's printed or not....... WHY???? Co's the graph says it all. This is all I'm going to say about this topic.

P.S...... not your fault for taking the pics off, it was a fair call.............. You just shouldn't have had to in the first place.

Iv'e followed this thread all the way through and have chosen to keep my nose out.. I'm up for one myself between mid Dec and by mid Jan at the latest. I think silvabullit and CES have done a fantastic job on the system. It looks great (BEFORE the photos had to be removed ) And if it gives around 8-10kw diff, and ESPECIALLY if it beefs up the midrange..... even a little, then I think it is really good value. It's a noise friendly and certified system, with proven power gains (TBA) and looks like it will last. I don't want to sound like an ad for this system....but I do fabrication work myself for other people (nothing to do with cars) and i know how hard it is to keep everyone happy. So good job, and thanks for sticking around silva and CES, 'cos there are some people here waiting paitently (and saving!) ;)

"hope there wont be any pen marks on the chart like the old one silver showed" Yeah, and make sure there are no dust marks on the scan too... :P :P :P Nah really, it will be nice to see the sheets, as I'm keen to see the diff myself..... and it all sounds good!!!!!

I'm up for one clutch & flywheel at the end of January, so if it was around then, I'd be really interested :D :D

Hey BenT, welcome to the forum, I have Boston Rallye RC 61 splits in my stivo, and they are 67mm depth (reasonably deep speakers) ..... and they had room to spare, from memory there was AT LEAST 10mm extra room there.

I agree with ADR Rolla AND Silvabullit It is easy to try and change gears in the stivo and not push the clutch in (at least for me..... i wish i had a 'half step' in my seat adjustment- one step is too close, and the other is too far!!) However, I have tried all manners of shifting....making sure the clutch is fully depressed, smooth shifts, fast shifts etc..... and my gearbox goes well in 1st to 2nd about 5% of the time, and recentley it will NOT go to third from second, and clutch is fully depressed, at times i have had to try THREE times to get it into gear (this happens around 10% of the time, only when im giving it s**t). These shifting mechanisms/gearbox does have issues in some cars. I'm generally a smooth but pacey driver, I've learnt to be this way in my car, as i find it's the fastest way around, especially in a mountain charge. So with this in mind, I don't heave or rip the shifter around, it just doesnt work in our cars. But I still have the shift issue :o :o :o car is going for 40k service next week, so i will pressure them to get onto it.

Tivo Matt, The rattle next to your ear is the bit of plastic that sits above the seat belt height adjuster, the bit of plastic in the middle that is sleeved inside the main B pillar plastic cover. It rattles in my car too :D :D :D :D I also have a DEATH rattle in my rear passenger window. if i have it down a few inches, it rattles very loud over bumps when driving. :D :D :D And the dimming i have :D , which I believe is due to small wiring mainly, and a battery that is only just big enuf. We have discussed this B4 (see kcorros thread above) and a bigger battery would help with less dimming, but it will not completley fix it.

Absolutley 1zzfe, It is best for your engine if you keep it at the full mark, esp if you drive a bit hard here and there, its much better for your engine if the oil is full. Say you go hard through a corner, the engine can have trouble picking up all the oil it should if the marker was near empty. Also, think about running your car on mineral oil for another 10,000 or so kays. I ran my 2zzfe for 28,000 kays on toyota oil (a blend of mineral/synthetic) and then switched to mobil1, and changed it again at the 30,000 service to fully flush the engine. Most engines take 20 to 30,000 kays to FULLY run in. I know many pple say after 10,000 its run in, and they are right sort of, the engine is mostly run in, but not fully. :o The reason I stress this is because when you go to a full synthetic, and change it regularly your engine surfaces wont wear AT ALL........ thats how good fully synth oil is!!! So its important to make sure all your internal engine surfaces (bore, crank etc) are FULLY run in, which takes 20-30,000 kays. I think most people find their engines feel really free and 'elasticky' when the car has done 30,000+ kays, which is when the engine is fully run in. Otherwise you can find that if you keep using synthetic, its soo good that your enging may not EVER fully run in!!!! nos*** That's just my opinoin, and from speaking to a few mechanical engineers as well, MY 20c worth!

Ive done my DASH lights, from bulbs to LED's, but as far as I know, the optitronic instrument cluster uses either neon or led's for backlighting (i actullay think it is neons). If you could supply a pic of the instrument cluster with the gauge plate removed too (so you can see the circuit board) then I can let you know what sort of illumination it uses, and if anything can be done. Be aware that the graphics on our cluster are in red also, so just changing the illumination colour may not be enough (blue light coming thru red graphics= murky green).

My mods are listed below, and over 39,000 kays I average around 9L/100k's, although I have seen ranges from 12.8 to as little as 7.4 with my weapon. Most of my driving is in the S.E suburbs and the city.

I wasn't knocking your hid's, i know they do a fantastic job :) I already know how good they are, thats why i want a set for myself. And i will check yours out one day (im in melb). mabye the alleyway should have been in the 'arty section'... thats all i meant.

Just my 10c worth.................. I bought Moran leather and conditioner, it's a 2 part system, and Moran make $20,000 couches, so it's really good, and it works a treat, just do your seats around twice a year (mabye once a year for your rear if it doesn't get much use/action ;) , doesn't leave it at all slippery and is very easy to apply. It's around $35, but I have done my couches and car seats all twice, and Iv'e still got 2/3rds of it left, so it lasts for ages. I found mine at Safeway of all places, in Morabbin.

When I get the $$$ (early next year at the latest) .... I'm definatley up for s set. :P They look horn............... :D :D :D By the way tangcla, It's interesting to note that even HID's can't illuminate that very dark and long alleyway All jokes aside, I have 6000k halogen bulbs for low beam now, and althou a HID 'fake'.... they still do a much better job than the standard globes (and they are the same wattage)..... so I can't wait to see HID's in there. I know they don't illuminate much (if any) further, but what the do cover, they do very well.

Hey rollergirl, You can get a pocket, from mazda, for around $23. It is a good size for 5 or so cd's, or sunnies!!