Suprathai

The stock corolla sportivo shock/springs are better then the zze122 corollas?? Or is it all in my head???

the SR20 is nothing to be sneezed at, they are certainly not slow. SR20VE more so, I wonder how it fairs against say a Blacktop BEAMS 3SGE.

A bit of info on your Pulsar would be nice, looking forward to seeing it.

SR20VE by any chance?? Haven't seen one before so thats the only thing I'm hoping for.

Welcome aboard, only advice I give you is to search and read. You should be able to find answers to most of your questions

Toyo T1R's 205/55/16 @ Blairs Lansvale/Cabramatta are $180 each which are great if you can get the extra $20 for each tyre, but the Proxes 4 are really good too from most of the people I've spoken to.

I'm in!

Will be there at 8pm!!

Seeya!

Looking foward to the first court case ever with an incident like this lol

The stock ECU copes quite well with all those mods and your AFR should be fine. You might see some gains down low, but thats it.

I wonder who would win between the Ae86 and JZA80 :D

Installation of sensors are very very easy.

With the water temp, you just buy a connection that taps into your radiator hose (available at autobarn). So a bit of draining and cutting and tightening of hose clamps

Oil temp and pressure - You just connect the sensor to and oil sandwich plate (I think autobarn as well). Which means removing oil filter, screwing on sandwich plate, screwing on oil filter + screwing on sensors.

With both instance, you just have to run the sensor lines through one of the available grommets in the firewall.

For Power, Ignition and Dimming signals I tapped into my stereo harness.

So all in all a bit of cutting, soldering and plenty of screwing

Bah, I'm not an economic nut.

But I like to voice my opinion on this little topic.

Kevin Rudd sure knows how to sell himself, I'd bet if he started telling people to re-finance with <INSERT FAVOURITE BANK> most people probably would lol

Tax cuts is what most people like to hear. Honestly I don't think an extra $50 a week will help that much, I'm probably going to get like $10 a week with those so called tax cuts and its probably going to go to straight to the M7 tolls. If you are running on such a tight budget then thats your own fault. If your not good with planning your finances then make sure you do your reading or consult a friend/professional on how to do it properly.

To all those families that are complaining that they are struggling, are you really doing everything in your power to stay on top of your finances? I would say most probably do not. If you do then I feel for you, and although everyone is in a different situation I sure most of them can do something about it.

I come from an Asian background and I've seen people that are not very well educated, have no professional qualifications still earn enough to cover everything. Only thing is they appear to work hard for it, something like 60 to 70 hours a week. You do what it takes to make it work, do not expect anyone to come to your rescue.

I absolutely hate people complaining about petrol prices yet drive a 5.7L V8 to work, I mean its a choice that you can make.

Drive a starlet and your insurance, subsequent running cost are practically halved!! Not that I drive one, lol.

7.6L/100km

400km/half tank

Caltex 98 only now <_<

Simply that the standard box and its associated plumbing is restrictive and designed to provide enough flow while minimizing noise....

A CAI besides drawing in cold air, has less restriction. The tube that connects the airbox to the throttle body is quite small, try measuring it one day, not to mention the air duct as well.

I believe this is what rollamods is talking about... It is possible and is not hard to fit.

I have the 3 gauges in the din slot, and one 60mm and one 52mm on the A pillar.

The gauge holders/pods were all my handy DIY jobs.

We have the same HU!!!

I tried mounting something like that. How did you secure it from the back?? I have a single DIN gauge holder but it doesn't excatly fit properly.

Some pointers would be nice for a blind goof like me

Could you give me some hints rollamods?

I tried it last time and it could possibly fit with a bit of force. Maybe I need to do a bit of filing and triming ont the stereo surround??

Basically there are two type of gauges, electrical and mechanical.

For example, and Oil Temp Gauge

Electrical - Uses an external sensor that is hooked up to the sandwich plate that taps into the oil filter

Mechanical - Run an oil line to the gauge itself

Of course in the event of an accident, the possibly of hot oil splashing all over you with the mechanical gauge during impact is greater.

Yeah the DEFI DIN gauge works very well, I did consider that until I found out the price :(

Being the rice boy that I am, I like the gauges that I've got. For an n/a street car, gauges are only for rice factor.

I might consider the relocation Idea for the time being. Time to do some more research. Either that Or I will try to make the 52mm gauges fit with the HU into the small space. I'm sure I can get it done, just hope I don't brake anything thats all....

I just got a set of three 52mm gauges and I was wondering what would be the best place to mount them without getting in trouble with the cops??

At the moment I only really need to mount one gauge, water temp. I was wondering would mounting it ontop of the steering column be alright??

From what I have read, it either varies from state to state or not at all.

This is what I've gathered from so far all over the big internet, which IMHO not very accurate at all at times.

1. Gauges when mounted are not allowed to be above the dash or in a crash impact zone.

2. Gauges cannot be mounted higher then the steering wheel, so with an A-Pillar your stuck with one gauge possibly.

3. Gauges must not be mounted in a way that they protrude from the dash padding.

So that leaves me with trying (have to think of something) to mount above the spare DIN with a bit of fiddling or relocate the HU to the below to the CD compartment.

Cheers

I suppose to answer his question properly would simply be, besides the fine that you will end up getting.

1. The noise is too loud, when I say too loud I mean you won't be able to put up with it in the car without wearing a helmet.

2. Won't be good for daily driving as it would kill bottom end power production, unless you would like to keep your revs near the redline alot. Dunno how long the engine would last though.

3. On a turbo car, the turbo itself silences most of the noise. Hence why they are very popular on turbo cars with the cannons. But in your case, I think a straight pipe from the header onwards would only be allowed on the track.

If you search you'll find that a member here has a unichip on his car and he gained around 10kw overall. But then again how much is the unichip supplied and fit + tuning?? For the same price I'm sure the PFC would be a better solution, but at the end of the day its your decision mate.

Back to my original question, is your blitz intake a short ram intake??

Is your blitz intake by any chance a SRI??

If it is then its time to get a CAI, the SRI didn't make much of a difference up top. For me the CES CAI produced the most amount of gain on any mods that I've got on my corolla. Also especially if your not travelling at speed, all that hot air is only getting sucked into the engine......which is of course not that good..

If your keen on spending up to 2K or maybe a little more then the PFC would be good. Trust me :D

Don't bother trying to adjust the A/F ratios as they should be quite good already, the stock computer handles it pretty well. The vvti is where all the power is being hidden. So its best to be able to get a computer that can change those settings

another thing also, I'm not 100% sure. But those figures are obtained with no other ancillary components hooked up?? Alternator, AC compressor etc....

What about using stock springs with slightly stiffer shocks?? I'm kinda considering that at the moment as one of the options, or put up with the stiffer Teins sitting at home.

I wonder is it because of the fact that its a 3inch tube with a 2.75" MAF housing?? Need to look more into it I suppose.

Cause my graph turned out quite smooth, smoother then this one. But I also had the S10.

I would recommend against the current P6000 pirellis, which are only $125 a corner, use to be $180. I think they changed the compound or manufacturing process as it appears to be a much more nosier tyre then the previous ones, but grips quite well in the wet for that price.

I find tha the pirellis perform quite well and you can get quite a lot mileage with them in general

Only need to jack your car up if its lowered. If its like my 4WD looking sportivo then you don't need to. 30mins is taking it at a snails pace, I say 15-20mins.