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yep got pillow mounts. Wei wei it didnt work i tried tightening it and loosening but had the same problem. Any other ideas

Thanks wei wei I'll give that a try

I installed it. Ie checked everything, its driving me nuts. It goes away if i loosen the top nut, but then i dont think thats safe and you can tell its loose when going over bumps and cornering. It said in the D2 instruction not to compress the A section so i left it just on. Can any1 else confirm that I should wind it upwards and compress the spring.

Hey installed my coilovers but the right hand side is making a wierd chong chong chong noise when turning. Everything is tight and the sway links are not rubbing or over extending. Its been adjusted from the botom and I have left the top uncompresed (when jacked up you can sort of just jiggle the spring). When I loosen the top bolt on the strut (i.e. from the engine bay) the noise disappears but I aint prepared to leave em loose. It makes the same noise when I overtighten the top of the strut and the shocker spins around. How can I fix this?

thats close to max in the back. front can get lower but will rub on the inner guard.

You forgot Shadow Shadow is where they Paint the wheels black, put on a light chrome like finish, then a tranparent clear coat.

Not sure if this has been posted but you can get a limited TRD equiped version of the Runx RSI. http://www.cartoday.com/content/news/singlepage.asp?in=8329

Looks like stock pads are the way to go then. I suppose they have lasted 45K and am happy with the braking. I will upgrade my calipers, rotors and pads later when I got the douch.

Every retailer tells me the opposite about green stuff. Maybe they are ok on rollas, any1 else confirm this.

A group buy got started on this a while back but the price kept rising till it was about the same to buy a TRD intake. Make sure you take into account currency conversion, foreign exchanges tax and possibly import duties. Specialised and I ended up paying $394 to our door for TRD.

Well I'm planning to upgrade my calipers and rotors later so there is no point spending big bux at the moment. Its not like i'm buying cheap crap, just pretty much what comes out stock on the stivo and most passenger car in aus. New brakes will be better than no brakes. Plus EBC and most performance pads can chew up your pads, grind/squeek, take a while to warm up and have much more brake dust. Its not a track car, its a street set-up (with street coil overs which are actually pretty comfy). So i'm looking for advice on good pads for daily driving. So please provide usefull comments for the above or don't at all. Anyway, The best bendix sell for our cars is apparnely the CTs (with excption of heavy duty), which I understand a slightly better than the advance, however i was advised against heavy duty with regards to the amount of metal. Ferrodo, has any1 got any part numbers and suppliers.

OK I have pretty much no pads left, but really dont have any cash left after purchasing my coilovers so at this stage I have to settle for standard pads. So far here is what I have found. Bendix CT - $86 bux from repco OEM Toyota - $72 bux from Toyota Now my Toyota Pads have been grinding since about 10K so I am a little hesitant to get them, but they are OEM and are designed for the car. Now I haven't had any experiance with the Bendix CT, but from their catalogue they sound pretty good. http://www.bendix.com.au/Text/112866309599...784022-5334.pdf So any advice?

All installed. Some tips - Adjust only from the bottom adjustments rather than from the top for the fronts - Fix the sway linkage to the behind the coil rather than parallel otherwise it will rub - The rears only have 1 adjustment so you havent got much choice but to compress them - Put the everything from the top of your factory shocks on the rears except the bump stops (even the rubber thingy that sits on the coil cuz without it it creaks). - I used 1/4 turn from hardest damening for the fronts and 1/2 turn from the hardest at the back (as per Goodboys) Hope this helps

All installed. Some tips - Adjust only from the bottom adjustments rather than from the top for the fronts - Fix the sway linkage to the behind the coil rather than parallel otherwise it will rub - The rears only have 1 adjustment so you havent got much choice but to compress them - Put the everything from the top of your factory shocks on the rears except the bump stops (even the rubber thingy that sits on the coil cuz without it it creaks). - I used 1/4 turn from hardest damening for the fronts and 1/2 turn from the hardest at the back (as per Goodboys) Hope this helps

Thanks Vyets all fixed. For future refererence you have to move the sway bar link connection around the back rather than parallel with the wheel (the stock shocks are parallel).

Do you mean spin the the connection link on the coilover towards the back rather parallel to the wheel.

Hey just installed my D2s. I adjusted it from the bottom and left the top uncompressed as it says in the D2 instructions so I wont wear out the shocks. I read through the forums and some1 mentioned that you should match the sway bar link distance with the the factory shock (about 130mm), however when this is done the car is not low enough (without compressing the spring), so I reduced the distance to about 110mm rather than compressing the spring from the top. It absolutely dumped my ride and it was all fine, but now raised it 5mm for practicality and started noticing a sqeezy rub noise. I inspected it and put it down to the sway link rubing against the bottom of my coilover at full lock (pic attached). Now I dont want to compress the spring but looks like I'll have to if I match the sway link lengths. However, I'm not sure if this will fix anything since it will just push the bottom of the coilover towards the sway link. Does any1 here compress their springs? If so how long will the the shocks last? or am i better off buying shorter sway bar links?

Ive already helped out on five cars, so I'm a bit over doing it and its pretty time consuming. Maybe some of the above people may wanna help you out with it. It really easy to do, ZAVs intructions are pretty damn good.

I think those are lexus IS200 headlights with a custom surround to fill in the gaps. Lexus IS200 are just upgraded corrola sedans anyway, so may bolt in.

yea i was suprised how heavy my lil kicker weighed as well. i built my custom fibreglass box without really considering weight distribution.... seems im going to have to bolt it down somehow to keep it from tipping over when i make a hard right. its strange- you can order the aluminium grille for the 8inch solobaric in australia but you cant buy the actual sub?!? I bolt it down to the child seat restraints, I just made up some little brackets.

yep have the same thing, its like a small pop.

12 INCHEZ AY?! nice one! finally another kicker solobaric brother in here! :) I love the kicker Ive owned it for like 5 years and I cant kill it. It sounds like I have atleast 2 ported 12inch subs into boot, but I only have 1 solbaric in a tiny sealed box, and have boot space to spare. Only downside is that weighs as much as 2 normal 12 inch subs (big mofo of a magnet).

Here is the car mate link http://www.carmate.com/product_details.php...&p_id=10098

Hmmm. not bad at all, thanks big bum. I'm gonna do it. I'd probaby angle it up a bit more to the back.

PHOTOSHOP PLEEZ!!!!!!!!!!!