(mr2)

If you are out in the Northern suburbs try Tonkin's in Salisbury.

I would be leaning more towards the Kenwood box over the Dynamco alarm, but the alarm would be easy to test. Disconnect the loom going into the Dynamco box and see if you still have a power drain.

I have MAXXIS on my 2001 SR5 and they have been really good. Used them for a little bit of off road when I lived in Darwin. Drove down with them, been to melbourne, Tassie and Wagga with no issues.

I have been out on trips with a mate who have Micky Thompson which were awesome off road as they were soft, but they also got chunks taken out of them.

There is a MAXXIS joint on South Road near Hindmarsh... This is what I will be replacing my tires with when it comes time.

60030 remote is for 2000 - 2003

50171 remote is for 2003+

the resellers on Fleabay normally don't know what they are selling though.

Yes the transponder chip will be different between the 05 and 02

Also Mr Minit are NOT Locksmiths, it's a very short course on key ID and cutting. Locksmithing is a 4 year apprenticeship.. Sorry, I had to say that.

If it's working you will be fine.

You did get him to do a spare key while he was there didn't you, so it doesn't happen again.

As one of the Aussie Locksmiths there is no way in hell I would be plugging those type of ECU resetters into a customers car. The problem is that if you plug them into a car that is not supported or there are any issues with the car you can kill it. They don't check to see that they are flashing the correct module they just start writing to it. The gear that I use for it which cost thousands, does it safely with minimal risk, and if for some reason it does go wrong that is what my insurance is for. Did the Chinese guy have insurance to cover ALL the costs if it went wrong?

The immobiliser box on his car is in a a different spot to your link, has is behind the dash. The programming you posted is also only useful if you have a working master key otherwise the immobiliser needs to be replaced or reset. The key blank itself will only set you back $40 but is pointless without the master key.

What is the distance you have from the bottom of the tub to the canopy?

If you have a look on the Waeco website they do have the dimensions of the fridges so that should make it easier to narrow down what will fit.

http://www.portablefridgesonline.com.au/fridge-faqs/waeco-comparison-range.html

Yes, the chip is separate to the remote. IF you look on the side of the remote module there will be a small empty spot where the chip used to be, this will be on the bottom of the remote on one side. The chip is around the size of your small finger nail. If you would like some pictures I can take some for you. A picture of the chip might even help you find it if you know what to look for.

If he told you that he is either purposely trying to steer you in the wrong direction or doesn't know what he is talking about. If it right behind the dash which needs to be stripped back, not really a fun job ( Especially when it can be done by OBD)

Even if you did pull it all apart you would have to have the gear to read chip to flash it, and the reset files aren't something that people like to share. Really, with the amount of time it will take to get it out, work out what needs to be done and get the correct gear the $700 is a better option.

There is a bit more to it than just knowing how to reset it, you have to have the correct file to flash the ECU with with. You will also need a replacement transponder chip for your key. You will also have to strip a lot of the dash to get to the immobiliser box.

These can be reset diagnostically ( Which is how I do it) which save a lot of time pulling things apart.

Wow.. that price for an old ECU is a crap load! At that price there must be some kind or warranty if it was the same mechanic that diagnosed the issue.

Do you have the part number for it? You will be able to pick one up on ebay for waaaaay less..

Thanks for all your help guys. If I could get the codes checked that would be great but our can is being held to ransom at the moment. A dispute with the mechanic and us. We don't feel it is just to charge someone when you've achieved absolutely nothing. So I will keep you posted when I can find out more. Sorry.

I charge even if the car still has an issue, BUT, I do write a report with what I have tested and eliminated. If your mechanic is charging you then you should expect the same thing. By this I don't just mean "we eliminated the immobiliser". I would expect the report to say that they have checked that the fuel pump is getting power and working when the car is started, injectors are pulsing, airflow meter is working, crank angle sensor etc... these are all things that a mechanic can test and will point them towards the issue.

If you are being billed and they can't tell you anything then I wouldn't pay.

How did you eliminate the immobiliser?

Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn the car on, is it getting power?

Don't always expect your car to work after using these cheap programmers, the way they work isn't the greatest and when things go wrong it's not cheap... As the seller for this one is only reselling chinese crap you won't be getting any technical support, what about if it does go wrong, is their insurance going to cover the thousands of dollars to fix it?

No problem. That's odd though that the key wouldn't work without the battery, I haven't seen that before on a Toyota.

Buying the keys from Ebay is a gamble. lots of them are used keys and you can have issues with getting them coded to your car. If you are going to look for a key over seas check to make sure the FCC number on the back is the same.

Also call a couple of locksmiths, they might be able to to it a little cheaper than a dealer.

Good work. Toyota's can be a bit stupid with timing..

Now that you have a working remote you don't have to do the battery thing, just lock and unlock the car then do the 20 on and off..

Regardless of the fob working or not you still need to be able to get it into programming mode, so there is either something going on with the car, or your doing it wrong :) :)

Is there a fuse for the remote locking?

When you are doing the 20 times on and off have you tried with a couple of different speeds?

How long are you taking between reconnecting the battery and trying the on and off?

It is possible that your car also has a key inserting switch in the ignition, it's the thing that makes the car go BEEP BEEP when you leave your key in the ignition. If it has and has been disconnected then it will need to be reconnected for it to work.

No idea where the receiver is as I haven't had to remove one before. Most likely it will be on the drivers side of the dash up above the peddles.

You could try taking the plastic off from around the steering column and get the indicator wires from there, you will be able to see them coming straight out of the indicator stalk and will be a lot easier to get to.

Give it a go with going up to 30 times, as soon as the indicators start, stop on OFF.

This is the exact same way the dealer will be doing it too :)

If you put our indicators on you should be able to hear the relay under the dash, use your multi meter to find the wires for the LEFT and RIGHT indicator and splice on to them.

With the ground, Have a look up around the fuse box, there will be somewhere there where a thing gauge wire is earthed to the cars body.

Did they do a pressure check and check the thermostat?

Might be a dodgy radiator cap too?

Should have clarified myself, the graphite wasn't to CLEAN the lock, it was to lubricate it (in very small quantities) after the lock had been cleaned by other methods.

There's a lot of divided opinion out there anyway when it comes to how to clean/lube door locks, so it'll usually come down to personal preference and experience.

Graphite is one of the best lubricants for locks when it is the ONLY thing in them, but this is never the case. manufactures put grease in their locks to lubricate them which does not go well with graphite, the down side to grease and other wet lubricants is that dirt and dust stick to them which wear the locks out quicker.

Funnily enough I just had a job for a Toyota Prado that uses the same locks as the Corolla, the problem with this car was the ignition but the issues will be the exact same as what is wrong with Codebeard's door lock.

First, the key was worn, this stops the inside of the lock from lining up correctly and the key being allowed to turn.

Second, the wafers inside the lock were worn and jammed up.

thirdly, there was so much junk in the lock that the key would not go into the ignition all the way ( This is what graphite does)

If you look and my first ( sorry for the quality) photo you can see how dirty the lock is and that the insides don't sit flush. In the second photo is the bulk grease that was left in the lock which had hardened, I needed to use a flat blade screwdriver to scrape this out. The last photo is after cleaning and the inside parts replaced, with a new key cut. Good as new.