(mr2)

So you have removed the door trim exposing the inside of the door?

There will be 4 rods going into the locking mechanism, the outside lock, outside handle and same for the inside. There will be 3 or 4 screws on the side of the door for the locking mechanism and then a wiring loom going into the bottom of it for the central locking.

When you pull on the interior handle what is happening? does it move freely or is there a bit of resistance?

Personally I want a maintenance free sealed battery for my second battery. It sits in a confined space which no circulation, the last thing I want is for the gasses from the battery building up in the back. If you do decide to go for this style of battery at least get a sealed box and vent it outside of the tray.

I did this for my Hilux to sent up an inverter in the tray. I can't remember the gauge of the wire but if you get it from an auto electrician ask them what size is best, and get a fuse while your there. I think it was a 75amp fuse I used.

You don't have to run a positive and negative wire to the second battery but I decided I would, at least you know it will be a good earth. There was plenty of room to run it under the car tucked up out of the way and there are grommets in the bottom of the tub to poke the wires up, use a dual battery isolator fitted next to the second battery in the tray, this will stop your accessories from draining your main battery as well as let the alternator charge it. Buy a good quality battery that will suit what you are going to use it for. From memory my battery cost me a couple of hundred, battery box, cable and isolator about the same and then an hour of time to fit it.

No problemo. Happy to help out.

If you have a remote key that will be the master, another way to tell is look for the security light, when you put your key in the ignition it should go out straight away, if it stays lit for .5 of a second then you have a Valet...

When you have the door open and insert the key do you hear a chime??

Nothing fancy with changing the actuator, they not need to be coded to the car or anything like that. Once he has removed the trim, unscrew the latching mechanism on the side of the door, disconnect the rods that go into the back of the mech. One from the outside lock and another from the out side handle and there will be one from the inside handle and another from the lock/ unlock button in the car.

On the bottom of the mech would be the wires coming out of it for the actuator, follow these back until you get to the plug and disconnect. Fit new one and reconnect everything.

Test BEFORE putting the trim back on, it really sucks when you put it all back together to realize that one of the rods isn't connected or the actuator isn't plugged in :) :)

Your keys probably aren't working it properly because they will be worn. Flush and lubricate the lock ( Inox) and then while turning the key wiggle it up and down. The dealer is correct in saying that only the master keys would work it as the Valet doesn't work the boot or glove box. As your key worked it to turn to dead lock then you would have the master, which is also the key with the black head. The valet key has an extra cut in the tip preventing it from working.

Ideally get a new key cut TO CODE and it should be fine. Doing this will also help the other locks last longer ( Have fun when the ignition jams up)

Don't waste your money on a used one. They can sometimes be coded into another car but it can be a bit of a pain..

Be careful even buying "new" ones on ebay, a lot of the time they are used ones in new cases, or poor quality Chinese ones.

How much will you be after for the Immo box ( Located behind the heater behind the dash, the door lock, ignition and key.. mainly the immo box I am interested in though.

Subzero. it looks like where there is supposed to be a screw there is a pop rivet with a bit of sheet metal.

Get a drill bit and drill off the rivet. Either use a 5mm bit and go straight through it but don't smash out the other end and damage anything :) Otherwise use a larger drill bit, around 10mm and take off just the head.

To fix if you know anyone with nutsets you can use them to get a threaded nut back in there, otherwise don't worry about it :)

Is that a pop rivet holding the mounting bracket in?

Hi Austin and welcome to the forum.

are you having any particular problems with your 80 series??

No you won't. Toyota really liked the idea of using a lot of different remotes that aren't interchangeable, they use different frequencies therefor aren't interchangeable. If you really want a smaller remote then your best option is to get an aftermarket remote wired into the receiver on your car.

No, the 2 button remote won't work.

Woo hoo, good news.

So this must mean that they will refund your $85 from when they checked it and nothing was wrong then :)

It can only be done diagnostically, no on board programming for prox keys.

What Jeffy said :)

If you got the dealer to get it cut they would be getting a Locksmith to do it.

The shoe repairer in the mall would only cut a copy of your key.

What key do you have, is it a remote key or have a black head? The Valet ( Gray) key doesn't work for adding/ deleting new keys.

Another way to check is sit in your car and look for the security light. insert your key, if it goes out straight away its a master, if stays lit for a second it's a valet.

Hi, I have a toyota camry altise 2003 model and have this problem, it will beep twice when I use the central locking button but not lock the passenger door, I have to open it and flick over the knob to lock it. I've found it only beeps when I have unlocked the passenger door then I have to open it and lock it manually. If it's just me driving the car and I don't have to open the passenger door at all, I can central lock/unlock both my driver door and both the rears fine, WITH the passenger door locked via switching the knob inside the car. So it only beeps when I've unlocked the passenger (and try to lock it via the central locking).

It's most likely the actuator on your passenger door.

When you lock the door are all the doors actually locked?

How soon after you lock it does the alarm sound?

Can you turn the interior lights on to DOOR ( including the one in the back) and then shut all the doors and lock the car.. do the lights go out?

What is the battery voltage in your car?

How long has it been doing this for and is it mainly when it is cold?

And lastly, where in Aus are you.

By my notes the Security light is supposed to go out when the key is inserted.

It will be worth checking.

IF it has one and has been disconnected then the car doesn't know that you have the key in the ignition ( Even though you turn it On and OFF) It won't stop the doors from Locking/ unlocking.

This is one of the biggest problems I have when coding in keys and remotes on Toyota's.

It is possible that your car has a key insertion switch that has been disconnected, you know, that stupid buzzing noise when you leave your key in the ignition and the door is open :)

To check remove the plastic around your steering wheel and look to see if there are 2 wires going into the side of the ignition, it isn't the ones going to the key reader around the front of the ignition.

Or if someone else with a SVX20 can check on their car..

If you do find someone with the same car another thing to try is put your CIR in their car and see if your remotes code in as it might not be the CIR itself but other issues with the car, preventing it to go into programming.

My apologies, I should read more carefully.

I've got a sedan and I do have a multimeter.

There doesn't seem to be a slot near what i think is the CIR for programming remotes. The remotes I have do not have any external contacts, the outside is solid plastic, so I don't think the remote is programmable.

It is still the CIR that you are after. It is the SXV10 Camry that uses the slot in the dash, yours would be a SXV20.

I tried the off on trick. Doesn't make the indicators flash, although the security light on the instrument panel does light up for a few seconds. Probably a further sign that the receiver module is faulty.

On a side note: I'd guess from the way this is meant to work that you are actually programming the receiver to accept the remote signal, as opposed to programming the remote.

When doing this leave the key in the ON position on the third time.

The security LED should stay on for 5 seconds. When this happens hold

the remote close to re receiver in the glove box and press the button,

repeat for any other remotes. ( Max 4)

Correct with coding the remote to the car, this is why they are also reusable in other cars.

Toyota Diagnosis for the remote is....

Insert key and turn on

Press remote button - hazards should flash twice indicating rolling code is sync'd

If no go..

Program new remote using the On OFF method.

If no go, replace CIR

Please re read my posts. My first one I have mentioned what the CIR is and my third there is a picture of it's location and I have mentioned that I have wiring diagrams for this car, but the sedan and wagon are different.

I poked around trying to find the receiver. I assume it isn't the same
thing as the immobilizer found under the driver side dash.

Correct, that only holds information about the keys transponder.

An easy way to test if it is for the breaks or the lights is to get a multi meter or test light, then see if there is power going to the connectors when you turn your lights on or press the break peddle.

I think Jeffy will be right though.