(mr2)

From what I can see the only changeable options have to be done by OBD, there is also no mention of the auto locking while driving only things like how long the interior light stays on.

How did you test the actuator on the locking mech?

If you have a multi meter use it to see if you are getting a signal to the motor, if you are then you will need to replace the locking mechanism. If when you lock and unlock it you can see the actuator trying to lock/ unlock the mech then it might be a broken spring.

As for the wires running into the top of your mech at a guess it will be a switch so the car knows when the door is locked but that shouldn't stop the actuator side from trying to do it's job.

Check the location in the picture. You are after the CIR

What do you have, wagon or sedan?

Also do you have a multimeter? I have found the wiring diagram, you will be able to test the outputs when you press the remote to see if it is sending a signal to the door actuators or not, testing to see if it is getting the signal from the remotes will be a lot harder though without the right gear.

If replacing the battery got it working for a bit then I think you should start with replacing the remote, which is around $70. This is going to be the cheapest and easiest to replace first.

I'm not sure where the remote receiver is on your type, at a guess it will still be behind the dash somewhere. Try looking behind the stereo.

Are they the remotes with the metal tabs on the side?

If so you are after the Computer Integration Module (CIR) which is above the glove box. Open it up and you will see a small slot for the remotes to slot into when coding them, it's above that.

Also if they are the above type the remotes are sealed and the batteries soldered in. If the remotes are old then I would start with replacing one of them.

Again if it is the above remote type I can give you the programming for a new remote but you do need an existing one to start, you should be fine as long as your remotes still have the metal contacts.

Check around the handbrake for the switch, it might be sticky therefore staying on.

The globe makes part of the electrical circuit that the central locking is on.

Also when the light doesn't work you can't code in new keys or remotes.

What is wrong with your existing keys?

What key are you using to try code in the new key. ( you can't do it with the gray Valet key)

make sure you have the radio PIN.

Open drivers door

Disconnect - terminal n battery for 5 seconds then reconnect

insert key in ignition and turn from OFF to ON 20 times leaving it in the OFF on the last time

Indicators should flash 20 times

After the last flash press the button on the new remote. Repeat for next remote of you are doing one.

When last remote is done turn key to ON

remove key, shut door and test.

That isn't for a prox key. That's to replace your broken key with a flip blade.

You need to break a key to get out the chip out.

Yes, corrects. As Toyota did such a fantastic job designing their remote keys they are guaranteed to break. The flip key shell is one of the fixes.

RAWG. As long as you have the diamond head shaped remote key that will work.

That isn't for a prox key. That's to replace your broken key with a flip blade.

I know that a few guys here have had luck with remotes from the states. main thing is check the FCC ID on the pack of your remote as that has to be the same.

I recommend to stay away from the Ebay keys though. Some of these are used ones in new casings that don't program into other cars easily, others are Chinese keys where even though the transponder reads correctly and the frequency is correct they won't work.

It is a bit ridicules what some of the parts are marked up. Also what is stupid is that sometimes you can get the same part in a kit with other parts for less than the one item.

I recently priced up some keys for a 2013 Dodge. Here in SA the Keys were $380 ea, I can get the exact same key from the states for $120.. I understand that the dealers have to make money and all but lets be realistic, marking an item up over 3 times the cost is a bit too much. And that's why I buy most my parts from over seas.

It's been a long time since I have done it so maybe someone might be able to better help you, but until then... :)

If you can get a wiring diagram for your car you will be able to see what the wires are for that come through the grommet, find which ones are for locking and unlocking and wire these to the outputs of your alarm. If you can't get a diagram you can always use a multimeter.

If I was doing it I would trace the wires as far back as I could to the central locking box as this would be tucked out of site and make it easier to keep the wiring tidy.

With the central locking you have is there a Lock/ Unlock button on the drivers arm rest?

If so wire it up to that. Follow the wires to where they go into the door that way you don't have to run as much wiring.

If You don't have to remove the door lock to get the code. A good locksmith will be able to decode your key by looking at it, failing that if you wanted to get it done that way PM me a picture of your key and I can tell you the key code.

Here in Aus it's about $25 more to get a key cut to code, personally I think it is worth it but if the locks are that worn and you don't mind having to jiggle the key then don't worry about it, as long as you can get it right :)

Immobilisers were first used in cars in late 94, BMW were one of the first to use it.

I can't lift it to see if there is a dot, G or H.

This is for later models and not for your particular model, sorry if there was any confusion. The stamping on the keys that have it are visible without doing anything to your key.

Now I do recommend getting your key cut to code, not just copied which transfers all the wear and tear onto the new key. Cutting to code also helps your locks work smoother and last longer.

my info shows that RAV4 in Aus didn't get it till 1998. You will find that with over seas models that can be a lot later too, especially in the states where they can still get a new car without a factory immo.

A couple of other ways to check -

Look for a immobiliser light on the dash or on the cluster, it will flash when there is no key in the ignition

If your key has a think rubber head or a remote it probably does have a transponder

If there is a mark on the key blade under the rubber then there is a chip. It can be a dot, G or H

How is your battery? The voltage might be getting low causing the alarm to go off.

It could be worth getting it checked out.

Have you tried any wreckers?

Paradise wreckers on Main North road is pretty big so you might have luck there. Failing that they are part of some spare parts hotline thing where they can check with a lot of the wreckers around town.

When I do the key method I take the key all the way out and within a second the light should start flashing, then put it back in.. You have around 10 seconds for each step.

With the peddle method I push and hold all the way down for a second and then release.

Those are the only 2 methods I have listed for you car sorry.

It could be a couple of things. Your car might have a key buzzer on the ignition ( the annoying thing that buzzes when your key is in the ignition and your door is open) if this has been disconnected it will need to be reconnected.

Also timing is important. I have had some cars where I have to slowly do each step and others a little bit quicker.. when they don't work properly then I do it diagnostically.

Did you also try the pedal method in the first post?

I'm like 99% sure that the ebay seller is wrong.. but it has been a while since I have done a Kluger.

Give this a try, it is for an older model but sometimes Toyota keep things the same..

Get your Black master key, sit in the car with all doors closed and the key out of the ignition.

Look for the security light on the dash, it should be blinking, this will tell you if the car has gone in to programming mode or not.

1. Insert master key into the ignition - the security light will go out

2. Remove and insert the key 4 times ( finish with key in the ignition)

3. Open and close the drivers door 6 times ( The security light should now be on solid, you don't need to go further than this till you get your new key)

4. Remove the master key

5. insert the new key

6. after 60 seconds the security light will go out ( this means the key is coded in now, if it doesn't go out it is the wrong chip.)

7. open the drivers door or turn the key to close programming.

Re the ebay seller. All they are doing is reselling the cheap Chinese keys, they won't know anything about coding in the keys or what the correct chip is for your car.

Ah right, Prox key.

There is still a mechanical door lock but you might have to remove the plastic from around where it will be.

You might find that there are some Auto locksmiths in your area that can do the job but it will still cost around the same as going to the dealer, one of the benefits to doing this is you don't have to book your car in and leave it at the dealers :) :)