(mr2)

Good work, thanks for the feed back.

I still think you should of got the key cut to code :) :)

Are both the metal contacts still on the remote? these need to be there for the CIR module to read the remote.

When the contacts are broken I pull the remotes apart and put on some contacts that I have from old remotes. You can also order the remote from the dealer that comes precoded and will code into the car. Other option is going to an auto locksmith to get the CIR module reset, but replacing the contacts has always worked for me.

SV20 Camry (86-90) Computer Intergration Relay Box

I don't suppose you have a remote for this too do you, or just the CIR?

No issues with putting an uncut and/ or uncoded key in the ignition. Just don't try start the car with an uncoded key, it can do damage to the car and on some makes will actually lock you out, which means even with the correct key it wont start for a period of time.

It should be this..

Sit in drivers seat, all doors closed and key out of ignition. Wait 50 seconds before doing anything.

Insert already coded master key into ignition

depress and release accelerator peddle 5 times

depress and release break peddle 6 times

Remove master key

Insert key to be programmed

depress and release accelerator peddle ( security light should start flashing)

After 60 seconds the security light will go out

If you want to code another key insert in ignition and wait 60 seconds again

When finished remove key and press break peddle once.

job done.

So as you don't need to turn the key in the ignition for this one you can code it without having to have the key cut yet.

Security light I think is under the stereo.

can you post up the coding instructions or PM me?

It's still working good, i just need to make another spare master key..

What model and engine is it?

If you aren't sure I can look it up by the VIN, but if you do it that way PM it don't post it up here.

Somewhere in this forum there are user sharing the method to code.

if you can help me with the method its better. So that i can be sure the instructions are correct and save me $40 haha

Yeah, me :)

Does your original key work all the doors properly or is it a bit clicky?

really though, spend the extra $$ and get it cut to code, the key will last longer, your locks will last longer and wont wear out as quick. It will save you money later.

Ok great stuff thanks. I'm going to check again with Toyota if they allow us to just buy the key. Cut it at locksmith possible for 10 bucks and recode myself.

The $10 option would be them just copying your worn key on to your new blank. I recommend that you get your key cut to code, any good locksmith will be able to decode your existing key and cut the new blank to the code, it should cost you less than $40.

Coding in the key is pretty easy, if the locksmith is nice they might do it for you for a small fee. You can not code in keys with a Valet key.

If you want to know how to code in your key I can help you with that,

You can also get after market keys without the Toyota logo's but the Toyota keys are cheap enough and are better quality.

Personally, I think that they should be organizing the tow truck not you, but this is something that would also be billed to you, from them.

The drive shaft breaking, as long as they were driving it properly then I think it's bad luck, unless they were working on it prior to it breaking. If they were then it's possible that they forgot to tighten something or it might be something that they should of picked up.

Cost of repair, I don't know what they would cost to repair so can't comment on that.

2008... That's a bit new for having a drive shaft snap. Has it had a hard life?

All you have to do is turn the key back to the vertical position so the internal boot release will work again.

Do you have the service book for the car? that should have what the odometer reading was at each service interval. Also check with Vehicle registry, they might have records of what the car had done at each time of change of ownership.

Did they alter the reading on the car or on the paperwork? It is possible that it was a genuine mistake writing the wrong thing on the paperwork, but altering the reading on the car is a BIG no no.

Hi, I have a 2001 SR5 dual cab but it is Turbo Diesel with 125,000km. I get around 480 driving around town and up to 550km on long trips and that isn't to an empty tank, about 50lt. It doesn't really go over 110km/h (Not that we can down here!)

What octane fuel are you using?

How do you drive, accelerate hard or slowly build up speed?

What was the road like, straight so you could stick to your speed or hills and corners so your constantly slowing and speeding up?

Good choice of car by the way, no way will I ever get rid of my Hilux :)

Gen4 is a BEAMS from 97.

yours will be gen1, maybe 2

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_S_engine#Generation_4

it most likely was the charcoal canister making the noise too, my MR2 used to do it a lot.

+ 1 for charcoal canister

Also I can see the start of a part number, 7770 .... Toyota part number for the canister starts with 777... so that must be it :) :)

Are you getting any fault codes, you might need a bit more than a reset.

I have done them by disconnecting the battery and rubbing the positive and negative together to discharge the car of power, it is safer though to leave it disconnected for 10 minutes. If you do this make sure that you have the PIN for your radio sorted.

The MR2 came out with an east/ west BEAMS engine, but from what I understand these are hard to get hold of and most people with an MR2 that want a BEAMS get the engine from something else like a Caldina.

There is nothing wrong with the 3SGE. There are a couple of generations of it so to keep it easy if you got the same generation it would be easiest to fit to your car ( I think yours is a gen1) but depending on how much more you want to get out of your engine you will be better off getting a newer engine and making it fit, but this wont be cheap.

There are wrecked MR2's coming up on the mr2.org.au forum so you might have a bit more luck over there.

I have tried out some of the Chinese Prox keys. The frequency reads correctly in them and also the transponder chip in them reads properly yet the car still doesn't recognize them. I know a few people that have tried them too and found the same thing. The only thing that these Chinese ones are good for is to have replacement case for your key.

Don't go off the I.D numbers on the key either, remember that they copied the key, including the stickers.

You can get away with undoing only the plastic in the wheel arch. On my SR5 the outer lip on the front quarter is glued on so I can't completely remove the plastic. The aerial is pretty easy to remove once you can get your hand up in the guard, 10mm bolt on the bottom and unscrew the aerial from the top.

Remove the plastic around the center console and also under the steering wheel, the cable from the aerial to the head unit clips into a couple of sections above the steering wheel and goes threw a grommet into the quarter panel.

I did have issues fitting the aerial that I was going to replace it with as it didn't fit to the guard properly, because of the rounded edge. I ended up sticking with the factory one.

Stop logging back in?

The Yaris should be using a different procedure than that, instead of the peddles it's with opening and closing the drivers door. I have that procedure and for the remote too.

Firstly though, do you have a master key to code in the new transponder and remote?

First you need a master key, not the grey valet key of a key that has been coded into the car as a valet. If you have an existing remote key this is a master.

The key will obviously need to be cut to work your locks, don't be tight and go the cheap way of getting your worn key copied on to your new one, they the new key cut to code, this will cost you around $30.

The transponder and remote can be coded in without diagnostic equipment, it requires a sequence of opening and closing the drivers door and turning the key OFF and ON. The remote and transponder are separate and need to be coded separately.

The genuine Toyota ones are a lot better quality than the aftermarket, Toyota is about $250 so with cutting and coding will be under $300. I haven't used the aftermarket remotes for these yet, they are around $60 and would code in the same so if they do work you will get away with it for under $150.

I have been thinking about getting some in to try them out.

Do you have a multimeter?

I'm not 100% but I would say that on the receiver you will have 2 wires for power and 2 for Lock/ unlock, it won't take long with a multimeter to figure out what one is what.

Is it the Alpine remote that you have, as per the picture?

Best way to go about it, find the receiver for the existing remote and wire in the receiver from the new.