Delvance

Welcome, nice car for 18! Goodstuff

Yupyup 2zz-ge motors in aus have 141kw from factory at the fly.

Mine used to be auto if that counts lol ? I miss driving auto once in awhile. Peak traffic sucks with manual and a sensitive clutch =/

Huge **** fine for no cat i hope you realise! If you get a metalcat, it doesn't restrict flow that much anyways.

Hrmm tough choices. I'd be inclined to say S15 or Teggy type r. If you're after some driving pleasure, a nice jdm s15 or DC2 teggy would both give it. Myself, i would probably have gone for the teggy but only a DC2 type r as they're the ones with an lsd, thin windscreen, minimal sound deadening etc (the dc2 is still the fastest 1/4 miler stock for stock against a dc5 type r or type s due to it's lightest weight of the 3 and lsd for launch). Regarding the track oriented setup not good for daily driving...i guess it comes down to personal response but for me, i've had Tein type HA coilovers in my car for about 2 months now... The first two weeks i felt every little bump but now, i only notice biggish ones. My body/mind has somehow gotten used to the small dips and bumps and i just don't register them anymore.

Only the DC2 type r had the thinner windscreen and handbuilt engine though. DC5 is normal glass, non hand built engine and even loses the LSD which the DC2 had. As for $20,000 more, hrmm maybe when brand new but nowadays you can pick up a nice DC2 for bit over 20K for a decent DC5 for bit under 30k, about the same price for a 2nd hand stivo eeh. And as Sportiyo said, it'll be very hard (or maybe impossible ?) to get something like the stivo to handle like a DC2 R. When the DC2 R came out, it pretty much owned the under 2L na category and even beat some turbo cars. Imho the Toyota vs Honda debate comes down to weight and gearing, as it's quite easy for both these manufacturers to make high output n/a engines (2zz-ge 141kw vs b18c 141kw, both 1.8L or B16 with what is it ... ~120kw i think, vs a 4a-ge black top with ~120kw, both 1.6L). Oh and honda engines have one of the largest aftermarket support bases =/

Yeah plastic looks pretty crummy, i removed the plastic cover on my engine too.

Hahaha, was my car parked outside ? I think i did hear a 2zz lift sound, very nice sounding :D

Very nice Daz, just came across this thread from your sig. Thumbs up for a superbly presented car (always wanted a white facelift stivo...drools)

Both the rolla and fto are using Mobil Supersyn 5w50 and i find it to be excellent oil. Has protected the engines very well. The rolla engine after 170,000 was still clean and producing good power. I wouldn't hesitate recommending it.

LOL @ Omega getting drilled. And yep, the Omega is part of the VE lineup (billion dollar blah blah), it's basically the pov pack commo. Those new aurions sure look nice...saw one for the first time on the road few days ago...i'd have one if i was a bit older and had some spare money lying around.

Heh, definitely get what you pay for. When my mate still had his saab, he ran so low one day he had to fill up at a place called "prime"...uhmm, let's just say it felt like 2 cylinders had died and the car was puffing out some weird smoke =/

Oh hey Kory...lol something cheap and nasty to do, you can remove your spare wheel and tools. Just get yourself a can of emergency tyre repair/inflater for bit over 10 bucks from k-mart. They allow you to limp home still. I've noticed some people have alot of junk in their cars...if it's junk, get rid of it. It all adds up when the engine is 1.6L. Try to keep your pod filter clean, it will help the performance of the car. And if it's just dangling inside the engine bay, see if you can box it off, or at least block off where hot air could get to it. Some foam from clark rubber works good for this. A voltage stabiliser kit can help to improve the response of your engine too (well it's actually quite a heated topic...some people call it bull while some swear by it...i noticed a difference on the rolla and the fto...i made my mate put a kit on his wrx and he felt a bit of difference too and he was sceptical about it). You could try some different spark leads as well i guess. Is your original air intake still in place btw ? If it is, you can turn that into a cold air intake and have it feed air straight to the pod filter. What i did on the rolla (97 ae101r), was block off the factory intake point, cut the front half of the resonator box, which in turn acted like a cold air scoop since it was conveniently located just infront of the wheel arch and sitting lowish. Soooo removing wheel and tools and junk - free pod filter cleaning kit - say 30 bucks and you get quite a few uses out of them large piece of foam from clark rubber to block off hot air etc - around 50 volt stabiliser and grounding kit - around 70 spark leads - 100's to over 300's dpending how good you want them to be I'll be honest with you, if you did some of those things on that list...you car won't really be much faster but it will be more responsive! I would take a slower responsive car over a faster slow responding car anyday. Another good path is handling mods, you'll be surprised how many cars you can lose in corners/sweepers if your suspension/wheels/tires are set up correctly.

How to do it ? Ungh trust me...your money can be better spent The last setup of the thing before we ditched it (just recently) 97 4afe 7afe fuel rail and injectors (the 1.8l version of our engine) water pump blades removed electric water pump Greddy e-manage, tuned for 98 only custom 4a-fe extractors, hpc coated in and out custom exhaust from best mufflers (high flow cat, 2 1/4 piping, silent muffler, 2 resonators i think) volt stabiliser and grounding kit turbozet (electric fans that everyone loves to laugh at) Nology hotwires Nology powercore spark amplifier Denso iridium plugs Cylinder heads modified Short ram pod filter, with cold air feed Whole air intake path insulated from engine heat (ie intake manifold, piping etc) Electric water pump was working in max mode constantly, the thermo fan was switched. Basically making ECU spit more petrol in. Temp gauge most of the time was on rock bottom (as in end of gauge), but the engine ran pretty hot. I think there was a bit more but i honestly can't remember...trust me, by the time you do all of that, might as well have put in a 4a-gze, which is what's getting done to it now. The good thing about the last setup though, power delivery was very very smooth. I.e. it didn't have a point where the car would suddenly shoot off, which made it very easy to drive fastish on the street or zip into gaps etc. It also sounded pretty good (no not the exhaust, the engine). The above engine is for sale actually, check out the buy/sell section.

Hey i think i saw that on t.v. too RoLLing BLK. Yeah suprising, but i don't think many of our members are going to start using 95 in a hurry lol.

Personally for my cars, i've noticed that Shell V-power gives the best performance but it's also the dirtiest fuel available from a big branded station (just use some cleaner system once in awhile). Caltex is nice and clean but doesn't feel as good as Shell. BP, i get the most mileage out of and the top end part of the revs are good and it's also pretty clean. (All referring to 98).

Ack! You mean to say you just started the car then put your foot down ?? There was a previous thread on this...basically the sportivo needs to be warmed up before the ECU allows the engine to engage lift. Without warming the engine up and revving the snot out of it is not healthy for the engine at all (any car you care about, should be warmed up before driving it spiritedly). Perhaps someone else can help you on the beep for your cenral locking though (no idea here :P ). Congrats on getting a nice car!!!

Lol, hrmm kinda i guess. Anyways, it's now sitting outside the car on the floor of a garage...anyone want to buy it haha...

Save your money Kory, just enjoy the car. If you've already installed plugs and pod, and have cleaned the system out a bit...that's the best you're going to get until you spart spending lots of money. My corolla also has the 4a-fe and after all the work done to it, it's about 110kw at the engine with stock cams...and now it's getting a 4a-gze put into it. Money would be better spent improving the handling after the pod and plugs...i suppose an exhaust would be ok but that's over $150 and you don't want a budget exhaust!

PM incoming, thanks :)

Heya all, Does anyone know of any good garages that can do an engine conversion and provide the engineer's certificiate around sydney ? It's an ae101 4a-gze into a ae101r rolla and a manaul box is being put in too. Half cut has been purchased and was going to be done at autosport in kirrawee but they're really busy atm. Anyways, they quoted 3k all up including cert. Thanks!

Azza, i think i know the one you're talking about. Saw it on carsales ages ago and it's still up on there i think. The owner is a member of this forum from what i've read. If i had enough money to do a 2zz conversion, i personally would go for the supercharger add on instead hrmm.

It'd be easier to extract more power out of the gze as well though. Down the quarter, it should be almost dead even as rollamods said...but around twisties, it'll be hardish for the sportivo to keep up. Assuming you're buying a half cut and chucking it into another car, it'd also depend on the weight of the chassis you put it in. Different generations of the 4a-gze also had different power ratings. With the AW11 MR2 4a-gze having the lowest iirc. Last one made was for the Ae101 JDM corolla, and that had around 130kw at the fly. Don't forget that lsd ;)

How about getting the TRD supercharger for it ? It'll still end up being slightly cheaper than swapping to a 2zz-ge and you'll have great low down power along with a decent hp increase. I think Penrith toyota can order it in and install it. Last time i checked, it was 6grand to get it ordered in (full kit iirc).

I think, depending on the type of car and age, record etc...different companies are better for different people. I'm 22, car's around sydney southwest street parked (not a good area really). First time buying insurance...driving for almost 3 years, no accidents/claim. Car's a 97 manual FTO GPX, just cars comprehensive $3375. Lol, if i went with NRMA i'd be looking at over $8000 (no i'm not kidding). NRMA really don't like FTOs for some reason lol. Rolla's insured under mum's name with GIO, for a bit over $900 (ae101 liftback).