Delvance

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Shannons yet ? From what i've heard, they are great and the prices are pretty darn good too. Only catch is you have to be over 25 BUT if you can prove to them you're an avid car nut (eg. paid membership in a car club etc), they may actually insure you even if you're under 25. I'm pretty sure i've seen reports of people with FTO's going from just cars to Shannons and sometimes the premium reduced by almost half. Excess is lower too. Atm, i'm comprehensive with just cars, FTO with pod filter is $3375 can't wait till i'm 25 *sigh*.

I had a similar setup on my rolla, but with more intake points (2 smallish tubes leading to the front bumper, 1 tube leading to bottom, and the main intake where the resonator was chopped into a scoop - this is ae101) and it did help the engine alot. Recently went for a reaallyyy short ram intake though...picture throttle body, bit of tubing, pod filter and all the above mentioned intakes still in place, made quite a difference. Leading a large tube to the front of the bumper is pretty good for cold air, especially on night drives. If you can, round off the edges of the intake at the bumper for a better effect even :) (or even lead two tubes to the bumper!)

Very nice time! 15.4 in a 1600 na car without recommended fuel is quite an achievement (stock too ). I'm sure i'd love one if i had one hehe, but alas i'm broke now (when i said i started saving for the 111, that was 3 years ago...finally bought a car lol).

Great 1/4 mile time. 8's 0-100 but a lowish quarter mile time makes sense considering the engine's power/torque curve. May i ask if your bz-r had any mods when you did that 15.4 run ? Nope havn't driven, i did really want to buy one though...caused me to start saving up for a car actually :)

Look heaps better as long as it's the facelifted 111...the old 111's rear is ugly imho <_< I guess the photo you posted answers my question on throttle bodies. Nice setup, wouldn't go nice on the street though (drivability wise).

Kecho, Very amazed by the performance figures you stated for the bz-r. The blacktop gives 165 horses or so and weighs almost 1100kgs. Those figures generally don't equate to a car doing 0-100 in low 7's (unless it has a really short geared box...but having the 6 speed box...you'll probably have to shift twice before hitting 100 clicks). Are those times you stated obtained by being realllyy nasty to the car (flat shifts etc) ? I have several articles on the bz-r and the fastest time i see in them is 8.04s 0-100. Revving to 11,000rpm in the blacktop stock ? Assuming it can, wouldn't there be almost no power then anyways ? The torque curve would've dropped off years ago and even the power band would've dropped off. I really doubt the factory cam profile allows power to be made around 11,000rpm...that would just totally rob the car of any low end performance and make it useless on the street ? Don't need cai but individual throttles ? The silver and blacktop already comes with quad throttle bodies i thought ? Do you mean tuned length individual throttles with foam filter at the end of it ? If someone's really serious about tuning a Toyota 1600 engine and keeping it na...i would head straight for the 100kw 4a-ge...done properly, they can give over 200hp easily but it will cost =/

My first car choice was actually an ae111 as well lol. In the end i decided against it as body parts would be harder to come by (which is stupid because i still ended up buying an import lol), but also because of the engine. Sure the blacktop 4age makes me feel warm and fuzzy but if i get bored with it later on and want to extract more power...it'd be pretty hard to do as they are pretty well tuned out of the factory. I think they do 0-100 in around 8s as well, which was a bit slow to my liking. Pros would be that the car would probably work till it literally fell apart :P , fuel economy, uniqueness/styling and a fun engine though! I'm guessing they handle well too, judging by the stance of them in photos etc and suspension setup. Interior looks pretty snazzy too!

They're very rare in Aus atm, as they've just been made available to the public not long ago. Problem is, for almost the same price, everyone buys skylines etc instead. If you're after one, best bet probably would be to import one over. Expect to pay at least $15k imho for a decent ae101.

Got some Denso iridiums atm along with Nology hotwires and powercore. Slight improvement in torque it seems. N/a cars usually don't gain too much from ignition upgrades :(

Hrmm true, now that i think about the quarter mile timeslips. Hey DuGong, I know the gtech accuracy has been debated to hell and back. So please note i'm speaking from my own experiences and my own particular unit. Since i've bought mine, it seems to be very accurate. I always make sure the unit is angled correctly and set correctly and that the road is very very flat and straight. Some examples of times obtained with my unit- My 97 auto 4a-fe rolla with mods, 10 flat...high 9's possible but i can't launch it perfectly (very fussy...) My 97 FTO gpx manual 6.67s Mates slightly worked 02 wrx 6.14s Mates slightly worked evo6 6.34s on a slightly wet road Mates VW auto 4 cyl Bora 10.67s Mates worked Fiat X1-9, 11.7s Most of those figures seem pretty accurate methinks.

Hot diggity damn.... =/ So if a manual 1zz had the same mods as you...they'd be as fast as a sportivo ??? o.0 Assuming a 1.5s difference between manual and auto (which seems to be the case with the 1zz's from toyota's data). Anyways, nice!

Mid 8s to 60mph, wow. That is a manual right ? The stock setup must be pretty restrictive to allow for that kind of gain wow.

Better tyres (as in grippier ones) will reduce wheelspin although not significantly. Good upgrade though...as it doesn't just benefit launches but everything else as well (braking, feel, mechanical grip available etc). My rolla went from Silverstone FTZ sports (CRAP!) to BF Goodrich G-force sports...huuuugggeeee difference. My FTO also wheelspins quite happily on aggressive gear changes, thinking i might get an LSD and better tyres sometime down the road.

Does the 1ZZ-FE auto really need 3.5k RPMs before breaking traction though ? I ask because i don't drive one, but i would've thought 2 to 2.5k rpms would've been enough. If 2 to 2.5k rpms is enough, there would be no point doing the neautral, press brakes, blip throttle, engage D/L then rev. Wheels spinning excessively just means power not going into accelerating the car...i guess it'd be helpful if you had super sticky rubber, but you'd still need good suspension and the FWD will still be working against your launch. Lol Shmicko, is the Astina manual ? If it is and she does a decent launch, it should still jump ahead of a 1ZZ using the brake launch technique.

Putting it into N, revving then sliding it into D will not be healthy for your transmission at all. Too much revs and a few times later you'll be looking at a big bill for fixing your tranny. As most people have said, just use your left foot to hold on the brake and dial the revs in. It's actually not that bad if you don't do it for too long...just loading the torque converter up. Different cars will have different RPMs you can hold before the brakes can't hold the car stationary anymore. Just find the max RPM your brakes/converter can hold, then find the RPM that causes wheelspin. You want to eventually be using an RPM that will give only a hint of wheelspin then grip. Also, it may be faster if you actually release the brake and gradually/smoothly feed the throttle on, as flooring it instantly may cause the engine to run too rich and not accelerate quickly. It's all different for different cars/models...just got to find the right combo that works for you and your particular car.

Wow, so much on intakes o.0 ... here's my 2 cents... Rolla recently got converted from CAI to SRI and in MY case, SRI made a pretty good difference. The engine is faster across the whole range and exhaust note sounds a bit better (possibly because the engine is less choked now ? If in neutral the car does idle at close to 2000rpm). Initially, the CAI setup was as follows... - blocked off the old/normal intake area - cut open the front half of the resonator box so the intake point was there instead - three holes were also cut on the bottom of the airbox and tubes were connected to these holes. - two tubes led to the front of the bumper - one tube led to just under the floorpan of the car - the throttle body and piping etc were mostly insulated against heat by heat resistant foam Few days ago, switched to an SRI (very very short one actually), but left all the intake points of the original CAI setup, and have sort of boxed in the pod to suck air from all the old intake points and surrounding coolish area of the engine bay. For me, the conclusion was it gave better performance across the whole rpm range that was quite noticeable. For the record, the old CAI setup was a hug improvement over the stock factory setup.

97 4a-fe... 11L+ per 100km haha, worked though. As a point of interest, my manual fto gives around ~9l/100km if i go fairly nice on it (just a shielded pod). That's a 2L V6... Fuel consumption efficiency has certainly moved on.

Got a custom set for the 4a-fe. 4-2-1 design to promote low and mid range, top still benefits. They've also been ceramic coated inside and out, which made a big difference.

Between all three engines (the 4age 100kw, blacktop and silvertop), i'd probably go for a 4age 100kw (16V) if i were looking at a conversion. Not only are parts abundant for the 16V 4age, there are plenty of tried and true recipes for modding the venerable 4age 16v to near 200hp quite easily (while remaining n/a). However, if you were looking to simply buy a car, and want it zippy without spending additional money on it, then perhaps look at the silvertop and blacktop. As stated above, the blacktop makes a whee bit more power than the silvertop but the silvertop's internals are a bit tougher. Edit - actually, if you can find a rolla where someone has done a 3s-ge conversion on it, that may be your ticket. Just make sure the 3s-ge used is a later generation one. The early ones had less power.

Damn, nice looking ride buddy! Love white cars.

Looks great! Looks like i missed out on a fine night to check some other rollas out *sigh*, but what can you do when you're flooded with uni work =/.

The first model corolla i don't like...ehhhh it looks all euorpean pretendy imho (at least the front does...), not a fan of the interior either. Hopefully the hatchback will be nicer.

Nice photos mate, those wheels look hot on it! :) Wow that's a small battery :o , did you get a smaller one to run the piping for the CAI ?

The JDM look is very neato. Sets it apart from others. Goodwork!

metal made monster