bozurolla

Tell me wen Im gonna wake up my tech to do this job

hahah lol I now see the problem, you should be using Mobile1 not vegitable oil hahhahaha At least the oil doesnt boil over & make a crackn good meal on the go!!

Agreed ,The dealership will allow u to supply own oil,as long as its withn specs (check the S(?) rating)The WA dealerships use a Castrol magnatec equivelent,I have heard about (some ?) of the Syns having a Glazing effect but sadly my stay with them was brief & did not witness any cases.

Ive got the same part numbers so were still in the same spot?! My suggestion would be to get it off the ground & measure the shaft diameter with a vernier,I know it may be difficult but this may be only way to get the correct info/diameter,Itll prolly take ten minutes tops if the hoist is free or drive on ramps.thats if the local mech will allow it.

Lash adjusters are hydraulic & supposively quiet,but without substantial lubrication still makes noises,& they are not considered a consumable part so they are under warranty,I have seen new cars with the same problem some have opted for shimming in the end,worse lash adjuster replacement.But before they do this theyll check the oil pick up & pump & check the whole lube circuit.Theylle check for leaks external first & internal (worse case) Youlle neva noe bud,prolly just a case of under lubrication..Its all warranty anyways

yep i agree with your 5k and a bit left over get the whole exhaust done, the intake (cai) maybe a cam upgarde and the piggy back ecu.. you will get a nice little gain and be pretty happy i think.. Agreed,Ive got the older of the rollas & 5K under ive spent is well spent,If u need any names & contacts for your upgrades give us a buzzAll mine are SOR,but i have NOR contacts as well??

i've not parked near anyone else outside of work so it must of been I got done@ Caro last weegend,parkd up @ the hoyts entrance..BAM..got done..Dark green paint..I was parked up next to a beemer too,Shouldve checkd the plates or sumthn,Who wouldve known got done by a beemer?? So much for classier peeples in europeen cars,More like dopes??!! (sorry venting)

why dontcha hook up with the TOCA members??

which shaft bushes do u need& i'll give a part number ,Ive got the catalogue at home ..

hey ?! Check youve got plenty of oil in the engine,How long ago since last service,Check condition of oil on the stick( dark,cloudy ,clear etc)How many ks since last service?Any on the floor?? (which I hope u dont) With my experience with the rollas as a service advisor at Toyota,engine discrepencies are next to nil but they do have a tendency for 'Valve slap' or noisy tappets,Youlle know if the oils topped up to capacity,If the oils low theres not enuff lubrication upstairs,So check the oil then thats cool,It may be valve slap,The easy fix is different oil viscosity & maybe a additive worse case is to shim the tappets or 'lash adjusters' good luck

r u malaysian? :P Siapa malaysian? hehehehe

I was thinkn maybe next Saturday,This weekend Ive gotta family day & my mech is doin a shakedown of mates car before licensing.] Cobra Rally heh?? lucky you my son :P I'll confirm if my guys free next saturday (& urself) & arrange a meet up

Kyp are great,Not all too confident about Jshop tho,Ive got the AFc in my rolla I had mine tuned by my own technician,If u run put of options give me a buzz & i'll see if my guys free to tune it for you.

hey mate, Check the wheel arch area,Check the integrity of the sound deadening,Might have to take off the tyre?? PM me if u need help,I can correspond with the technician that did it.. Bozurolla my Aurion Prodigy has water leaking from underneath the speaker grill, ie. where the speaker grill sticks to the door. This only happens when it's raining heavily and the car has been exposed to it for 20 or so minutes. The leak happens in both the passenger and drivers side door. Has happened about 6x now since November. I took it to the dealership who tried to reproduce the problem with no success. Mind you they did it on a 40 degree day. YOu don't happen to have encountered this problem too? Ive spoken to my toyota guy & he thinks it may be the door skin (panelling) thats not properly secured or fully welded (its a long shot but happens)

Heybud,First of all.welcome to the TOCA west & hope our inputs during your time on the forum helps, Congrats on the Toyo choice I recommend the brand to any for value & optimum driving properties,I do recommend keepn the spare dude,yknoe 'poo' happens & with no spare & tools how r u gonna help damsels in distress's & urself hehehe,& where abouts are you I can see if i can get a reputable fitter to do it for u (the AFC neo that is) :P

hey mate, Check the wheel arch area,Check the integrity of the sound deadening,Might have to take off the tyre?? PM me if u need help,I can correspond with the technician that did it..

Once again I saw this,& there was recent recommendation to readjust the K frame under the gearbox after doing this I didnt hear a peep from the customer as I saw him three times prior.There is a delay from the trans ecu to the gearbox (slight sec or so) so the dealerships do recommend a lil in between shifts. good luck

Hey mate, Working for a dealership I saw this on a new Aurion & Camry,apparently its a fine crack/seam weld discrepency & we rectified it with Sikaflex 227.bring it back to the dealership buddy

'In theory' platinums last 100 000kms,but I recommend regular checks esp if the vehicle does limited 'city' kilometres,but i'de change them close to 60-80kms,For non platinums i'de change them over at 15-20 000 km,(thats just me) mainly because of the city K's i do & our dodgey bowser fuel..

I disagree buddy the engine would run cold,Meaning the computer would change its running parameters differently becoz of it,If ur car was of the olde carby type yes i would agree but modern 'No' it would throw out your economy out the window,If u wanted to a different thermo switch might help that open & closes earlier but like i sed 'out the window' ;)

working for a Toyota dealership briefly,$120.00 plus 60 labour is pretty reasonable,It does include taking of the plenum chamber to get to the rear bank,Takes bugger all to do the front but the rears a bitch,also they recommend to replace the gasket too (cha ching!! ) takes like one & a half if u know wat ur doin just dont disconnect any vacuum hoses. Working for a supplier sparkys (platinum) are abouts $18-$25,But u can put conventionals spark plugs back in just u gonna service them more frequently,Or ive had some customers request conv in the front bank & platinums in the rear (purely for cost cutting) conv spark plugs are abouts $6-$8 each (depending on brand) hope this helps

Its seems the battery has still got a power(check the CCA Cranking amps first)and NO dont use screwdriver to join the poles :blink:If its clicking its sounds like the starter motor points are struggling to ignite,Temporarily a wrap with a hammer will get u going (only kidding ) but off to the sparkys u go to replace the contact points (two half moon shaped copper points with mounting bolt holes) Good luck

Halogen & Xenon are two differents gases or discharges,The Halogen are of the olde as the Xenons are the latest,The Xenons apparently cooler during burn than the Halogen,& the Xenons express the blue tinge everybody likes better than the halogens,Working for Coventrys for ten years ive been exposed to many brands (Philips ,Narva, Hella)& technologies (convglobes to the HID units),Someone might prove me wrong,but this is all the perspective of a salesperson & numerous product training nights.

Hey matey,Could be anything but Ide check the ignition switch & barrel first,the switch might still be stuck in the on circuit (if u know wat i mean?) I dont think itll be the engine bay coz it all starts & finishes at the flick of the switch? Good luck

RIP Heath a young & promising life cut short,My condolences to the Family,Will be missed.. :(