Hiro

Now, swap the clips over so you have an ADM clip on the JDM seats (remembering to thread the wiring for the ADM seat warning light through the frame again so it can connect to the body loom. ADM clip on JDM seat Then, reverse the removal procedure to install the new seats back into the car, remembering to connect the seat-belt warning light on the driver's side. Comparison shot between JDM (driver) and ADM (passenger, with Autobahn-spec seat cover) And the new all-JDM front (photo was an afterthought, so excuse the quality :P)

Well, after taking a much needed week-long vacation to the Gold Coast, decided to drop by Terra's place and finally pick up my Levin front seats. So whilst the trip back down to Newy was kinda cramped (boot full of souvenirs and luggage, back seat full of front seats and front seats full of people, still managed 6.5L/100km from Ballina to home on a single tank), it was definitely cheaper and more efficient than getting them shipped. Anyway, apart from a few niggles the seats are a direct bolt-in to the ADM models, and the difference between the two is like night and day. Of biggest issue is the fact that the ADM seat-belt buckles do not engage the JDM clips, so that means that the clips have to be swapped over. In addition, the wiring for the seat-belt dash warning has a different plug, but since the clip is being swapped over and the wiring is kinda connected to that, it turned out to be a non-issue. And for those who like walkthroughs, here is one (note the driver's side was done in a hurry in dim light so no photos were taken) First, unscrew the two screws holding the boot/fuel-cap door release levers moulding and pull the moulding away from the rail (don't move it too far or you'll pop the boot etc, and possibly stretch the cable or pull it out of one of it's clips which I did a long time ago, meaning that the fuel door doesn't open and I have to manually do it through the boot) Then, pop off the remaining plastic covers at each end of the seat rails (most of mine had broken/fallen off anyway, especially the rears which tend to get kicked by back-seat passengers) After that, it is a matter of using a 14mm socket and extension bar (gives you more sweep) to undo all the bolts. Drivers and passengers are direct mirror images of each other Outside front Inside front Outside rear Inside rear Once the four bolts for each seat are removed, tilt the driver's seat back and unclip the seat-belt warning light wiring from the body loom. And remove the seats from the car. Now you need to swap the seat-belt clips over. To do so, unscrew the plastic trim piece on the inboard side of each seat This will expose the fastener holding the clip to the seat frame/rail. Note that the JDM seats use a nut and stud, the ADM ones a bolt and tapped hole - both work fine so no need to swap them over too. Also note that the ADM rails attach to the seats differently from the JDM rails, even though they bolt to the chassis the same - I figure this is so the JDM seats can sit lower as they are a "sporty" seat. JDM ADM To remove the clip, use a 19mm socket for the ADM seats and a 14mm socket for the JDM seats. With the driver's seat, remember that the wiring for the warning light is attached to the clip, so thread that through the seat frame so it comes out with the clip Comparison side-by-side of the clips - JDM on the left, ADM on the right. Note the much longer stalk on the ADM one, as the seat base is thicker

Homer, we don't have a clapper....

Fog lights are not illegal, per se, but should only be used in foggy conditions, hence their name. If you are having trouble seeing the road at night in normal weather conditions, then consider using high-beams (if no-one is in front of you or coming the other way and could be blinded by them), consider getting some driving lights (which are different to fog lights, and have their own set of legalities regarding fitment and use), or get your low-beams checked out. Any car sold within the last 10-20 years in Australia should have headlights adequete enough for night driving on a freeway, either standard or with a simple bulb upgrade.

Sounds like there's a problem with the pressure sensor then...

Unless it is the ECU (which Toyota price as if it is made from solid gold) or turbo related, it is basically all standard AE112 parts so shouldn't be super expensive.

Whatever you do, don't drive the car with the oil-light flashing. It is a low-pressure warning, and starving the oil pump and big-end bearings of oil for even a fraction of a second can cause major engine damage. You said that it's not burning any because you can't see any smoke, but do you sit behind your car whilst someone else drives it? Not all smoke is visible from the driver's seat, and not all smoke will appear at idle in the driveway either. My car almost never smokes once it is warm, but I will still get low-pressure warnings if I don't top up or do an oil-change every 6-7000km. A-series engines (especially 7As) are renowned for burning oil later in their life (either valve-stem seals or rings), best thing to do is to step up to a thicker oil and see how it goes from there. Speaking of which, what viscosity oil are you using at the moment?

Pretty sure they are shim-on-bucket like the rest of the A-series... In saying that, my 7AFE has done 325,000km and as far as I know the valvetrain has never been touched (my dad was the original from-new owner) and it's still nice and tight and quiet. Head has never been taken off either.

They are indeed proximity/light sensors and are used to turn the screen off during a call when the phone is placed to your ear, but contrary to belief in this thread they are not a battery-saving measure, they are to stop your ear pressing the touch-screen buttons and doing random things during a call - my Samsung i8910 HD has the exact same style of system and they specifically state it is to turn the touch-screen off to prevent mis-touches. The amount of battery they would save would be miniscule in comparison to the energy expended in the phsyical act of making the call and playing sound through the speakers - see how much your battery drops just sitting at the idle-screen for 5 minutes, and that is essentially all that the screen is doing during a call.

What I did last week - drove the 102 up to Surfers, had a week's holiday, picked up some long-awaited 101 Levin seats, attended the meet for a Twincam QLD cruise, and then drove it back home. Trip back saw me get from Ballina to Newy on a single tank and a fully laden car, 6.5L/100km is nothing to sneeze at for sure. What I did today - put in the driver's seat. Would have done the passenger's seat too except fading light, rising mossie levels and having to swap the seat belt holders and seat belt warning light harness over took up a big wad of time

Yes, the dome fuse does double up as a radio fuse, however there is still a separate cig/radio fuse (in the kick-panel, the dome fuse is in the engine bay)

There's no real majority, both are common (my parent's Mazda2 has the intake at the front), the main advantage of exhaust at the back is that the secondaries don't have to go under the engine, thus saving height and allowing the engine to sit lower, but it will push the engine forwards because you need to route the exhaust around the steering components between the block and the firewall. does the engine still spin the same way? Generally, yes.

If properly designed and positioned should give you something slight from as low as 60kph or lower. Look at this being an upside down aero wing, gliders start lifting off the ground with people in them at around this speed or slower. The stall speed of a tiger moth aircraft was 45mph (approx 72kph) with a crew of two and that is ancient technology. Point taken you did say noticeable? down force . A _properly designed_ spoiler will give downforce even at low speeds, but making the comparison to a plane is a bit different considering they have wing areas several times greater than that of the average spoiler/pizza-box holder (especially gliders, which have massive wings and very light weight because they need every ounce of lift they can get). In your average road car, the difference between a full and empty tank of fuel at 100km/h will probably be greater than the downforce caused by the spoiler.

There's no real majority, both are common (my parent's Mazda2 has the intake at the front), the main advantage of exhaust at the back is that the secondaries don't have to go under the engine, thus saving height and allowing the engine to sit lower, but it will push the engine forwards because you need to route the exhaust around the steering components between the block and the firewall.

If you expect ANY spoiler on a road-car to make a difference in downforce then you are gravelly mistaken. It is only once you get significantly above the open-road speed limit before a boot-spoiler will produce noticeable rear downforce.

Ring up Telstra and say you want a silent number? Or go on the Do Not Call register? Can't exactly take your number out of the phone book until they update it in July (although they start collecting data), but telemarketers generally don't pull numbers from the phone-book anyway (they get them from mailing lists etc)

No, Toyota builds Corollas in the US at the NUMMI plant in California, the old joint-venture project with GM (which is why US got the Pontiac Vibe, Geo Prizm, Chevy Nova etc as they were re-bodied Toyotas). This is going to shift to the Ontario, Canada plant though as Toyota pulls out of the NUMMI contract

Umm, chances are Channel9 didn't do the editing, the BBC release an "international" version which fits into a standard 44-minute commerical hour, as opposed to the 50-minute commercial-free hour they run in Britain. When SBS started doing ad-breaks I think they switched to the international version too, so we're not really losing out much (you can always tell coming back from some ad-breaks that bits had been cut, traditionally it was the "news" section as it was mostly UK-focussed)..

The HD looked pretty decent to me, better than SBS at least (but then again I've got NBN, not Channel 9). And it wasn't a two-hour episode by the way, it was one normal episode with bits cut (ie the international version, as the BBC version goes for 50 minutes and no ads), and then the second half (with a very obvious cut) was the Winter Olympics special which is from 2006 (although the Evo/bobsleigh bit was from Season 5 in 2004).

Except Andrew Symonds isn't Aboriginal, he was born in England and one of his biological parents (he was adopted, and he moved with his foster parents to Australia at an early age) was West Indian...

If you only noticed the $17 missing (not $20 :P) in the morning, then you could have been drunk enough to also forgot that you jumped out of the taxi before he could give you the change, or you just said "nah mate it's cool keep the change". People say and do things when drunk that they swear they never did once they sober up.

Not bad, needs a bit of work but should turn out ok with a bit of blood sweat and tears... Don't expect the engine to pin your ears back though, it's still only 2.0L and has less power than your V6 ES300, and probably heavier too.

That was the good thing about the First Decade set, even the original C&C had been fixed to run in XP.

No photos though...

Rear wheels have been on and off the Celica all week like a yo-yo due to swapping spacers over, new custom-machined ones are on now and hopefully should curb the scrubbing issues. In other news, drove the Corolla down to Sydney yesterday for Top Gear Live, and it appears to have developed a nasty clunk/knock in the rear suspension over _some_ bumps, going to have to spend the afternoon checking it out (driving up to Qld in a week's time so really need it to be in full working order for that)