Hiro

It was a joke, as in you'd have to pay all that money to get a custom-built car just to get adjustable headrests.

The only O2 sensor is on the engine pipe, if you've still got stock headers then it'll be just after the exhaust manifold-engine pipe flange and the heat shield - if you look down into your engine bay you'll see the sensor and the wiring sticking out towards the radiator, the wiring should run up towards the radiator fan. Be careful taking it off as you don't want to round the nuts off, like any exhaust component it will have gone through a lot of heat cycles so be wary of snapping the studs too. If they are too tight then try heating the nuts up with a butane torch or the like, and use a breaker bar for extra leverage. And 2000rpm @ 80km/h sounds a little low if anything, the manuals are geared to be doing ~3200rpm @ 110km/h, but then again the autos could be geared a little taller.

That's the price you pay for adjustable headrests...

Which temp sensor? Intake air or coolant? The intake air-temp sensor is purely used to fine-tune the fuel-injection, as the density of air changes with it's temperature - however the full range of the sensor only accounts for a relatively small change in density, so even a faulty sensor won't stuff things up too much (and certainly wouldn't affect starting). Coolant temp sensor on the other hand will determine whether the engine is cold or hot which can make a big difference in starting - if the sensor is faulty and saying that the engine is warm then the ECU and idle-up won't go into cold-start maps and the engine will quite likely struggle to start. If the sensor is stuck in a cold reading then the ECU will constantly think that the engine is cold and add extra fuel (as it does on cold-start) which can significantly increase fuel consumption - think of it as a choke on an old carbie car; it helps starting when cold but makes the car run rich when warm, chewing through fuel. You can get similar problems with a thermostat that is stuck open, although in saying that my thermostat was on its way out for quite a while (and the engine would never get up to temperature unless it was idling in traffic) and my fuel consumption was barely effected (6.5-6.7L/100km on the roadtrip up to Brisbane for last year's TOCAU annual meet)

1990 with a 3SFE?? I'm guessing it's an import because all Australian ST184s had the 2.2L 5SFE

O2 sensors? Technically there's only one, in the exhaust, but if it is faulty then it can definitely lead to the engine chewing fuel (what a lot of people also call an O2 or oxygen sensor is the intake air-temp sensor, but this measures temperature only and has only a small effect on fuel consumption). Have you tried pulling error codes? You'll need to go for a drive in test-mode to really check the O2 sensor out, as it could be an intermittent thing or only when under load. Also, is it auto or manual? Obviously autos have worse fuel consumption than manuals, but if the transmission isn't locking the torque converter or not shifting into 4th/overdrive when it should then you could simply be using more fuel because the engine is working harder. As for the size of the tank, it is indeed a 50L tank, however like a lot of Toyotas the fuel gauge (and low fuel light) is quite pessimistic - the light will initially come on when you have about 12-15L left in the tank, and stay on when you have about 10L - I know several people who get extremely paranoid and fill up at the nearest servo the instant the light comes on, not realising that you can go for upwards of 100km further and still not run out. The most I have ever put into the tank is about 47L, although that was so low that it was starving the fuel pump going around a roundabout and up a hill, something I would very much not like to experience again. Since I know my car well and am rarely far from a servo though, I tend to fill up around 43-45L.

Kiama/Kangaroo Valley is stretching it for me, Bathurst I do every year with Twincam, and Redhead is 15 minutes away......hmmmm gee I wonder which one I'd choose :D

the 2011 1GZFE VVT-I * a In addition to the adoption of the (continuously variable valve timing mechanism), and reduction of friction by 7.6km / L JC08 mode fuel consumption traveling * 2 run (10.15 mode 7.8km / L fuel economy * 2 to achieve outstanding fuel economy with it), FY 2010 fuel efficiency standards * 3 achieved. In addition, over single or promotion of the exhaust manifold, also low-emission gasification, such as fine particles by high-injector. Has obtained certification from the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport in low-emission vehicle certification system "level 75% lower than 2005 emissions standards."." The 1GZFE has ALWAYS had continuously variable VVTi since it's launch in 1997. I repeat, it is NOT a new engine. Why? there are Toyota's that have similar shape Markx, Genius, Crown, Crown Majesta, Crown Athlete. All have 2gr-fse RWD and AWD. Mentioning AWD because its east west and RWD north south. So that isn't so unpractical in 1 model. AWD in those models isn't an east-west engine, it is still north-south with a transfer case and front diff. Aurions/Camrys are FWD with an east-west engine. Obviously there isn't a physical reason why the 2GRFSE can't fit, but I can think of a bloody good reason why the 1GZ and 1UR wouldn't - exactly how many east-west FWD V12s and V8s have you seen in your lifetime? Hell, there have been barely a handful of FWD straight-sixes (which would be the same length). The Camry/Aurion chassis will stay FWD for several reasons - the cost of changing the entire chassis and drivetrain to RWD would be huge; in a market which is seeing the decline of the big Aussie RWD sedan introducing a whole new chassis or model would be akin to climbing aboard a sinking ship to put up a new flag; and the Camry is FWD everywhere else in the world and Toyota Aus actually exports most of the cars it makes, so it would need to be a global decision.

ahem!! OK Okka Bill, if you think Australian build quality is finer than Japanese you haven’t been anywhere! How many Holden’s have different coloured front and rear bars, Ford, Holden’s, Toyota's s made in Australian gaps left, right of boot and bonnet unequal? Ummm all of them!! How many Holden employes weld the word F-U-C-K in the chassis 20% of them, Will we get fired if we tell the supervisor there a 3 mm gap either side of a SSV, or W420 on the line, Yes! why? to much work, and paper work. Trust me x Holden's employee for 13 years! Mitsubishi 4 years. How many Austrlain built cars are downgraded in luxury even high end models? All of them! How many Aussie built cars have dash rattles and cheap plastic crap? All of them! How many Aussie Built cars have Large engines and Pissy brrakes!! All of them Do you see a trend! Now back on topic, Wow, congratulations on completely mis-reading my post and then blowing it way out of proportions. Sounds like you're a disgruntled ex-employee with an axe to grind with Holden and Mitsubishi. Nowhere did I state that Australian was worse than Japan. I simply said that the previous poster needed to get out of his attitude of automatically assuming that everything that comes out of Australia is crap (an attitude that you seem to share). Yes, we do have some inconsistencies (the classic Monday/Friday car) but so do cars made just about anywhere in the world. Japan isn't this shining beacon of awesomeness, remember the scandal a few years ago in relation to Mitsubishi Fuso trucks in Japan when over 500,000 units were recalled and half a dozen executives were arrested for a litany of defect coverups spanning 10+ years? Wow, awesome. Now, in relation to Australian-made quality, I have been a witness to the quality of 3 Australian-made cars in my life bought from new for a sum total of 43 years of ownership - a 1984 KE Laser GL (made in Homebush) and a 1996 Camry CSi and 1997 Corolla Conquest (both made in Altona) - the Camry my parents still own and the Corolla I own (the Laser was sold to make room for the Camry). Over those total 43 years I can probably count on one hand the list of problems that we've had. In particular, the Corolla has travelled almost 360,000k with EXEMPLARY quality - no rattles, no dash trim falling off (there are a few missing screws that I lost when I had to remove the whole lower dash to install a short-shifter), the body is still in good condition with no rust, good panel fitment, the dash hasn't faded and cracked like so many JDM models would have, the engine is completely un-opened, the car is still on it's original clutch, original brake rotors (that's right, quite competent 4-wheel disc brakes the same size as the JDM Levin sports models, so certainly not underbraked with an 85kw 1.8L engine), the stock pads lasted 280,000k, there are no oil, fluid or coolant leaks, it does burn a bit of oil like every other A-series engine but on the whole it has been an extremely reliable car. The Camry likewise - apart from the classic rear main seal developing a leak, it has been the epitome of reliable motoring, and has driven interstate and on country dirt roads a LOT (my parents are cross-country runners and venture into the forests a lot) for 300,000km. As for your statements about the specs of Aus cars being low, that is ridiculous. Australia doesn't have the market to have extremely high-end models (Japan has a population 6-times that of Australia, and a high turnover rate of new cars because of registration costs so people always want the latest and greatest), but I would say that our specs are "generous", maybe not luxurious, but still decent (and definitely better than a lot of places in the world, the US for instance). As you said though, this is getting off topic. Feel free to continue your ignorance via PM.

Umm, "new" 1GZFE? It's been out since 1997 dude, with no real upgrades. It's a nice engine, though. Completely useless for an Aurion (being north-south only), but still nice.

No it isn't, but so what if it was? I think you need to get over your "Japan is awesome, Australia is crap" mentality, the most reliable car I have ever owned (and the one with the best build quality) was built in Altona. Sure Australia has made some dungers (usually with a Holden or Ford badge), but for the most part we have a reasonably high quality auto industry - I certainly wouldn't baulk at buying an Australian-made 86.

Coming up on 360,000k soon, should hit it before the big road-trip to Melbourne for the national meet. Geez, it's taken me a year and a half to do another 25,000k....positively glacial to the first few years of it's life when it was doing 1000k a week....

There were 77 ST205s imported by Toyota Australia for sale here and all are individually numbered (as they were a part of the official 2500 WRC homologation models, which is why they had all the good bits), which could be what the guy was thinking about, but they were all '94-'95. As Mick said, try somewhere other than Supercheap - if you're car doesn't start with Comm or Falc then the odds of being able to order something in through SCA drops dramatically, places like Repco/Bursons/AutoOne actually take notice of what you drive and are more than willing to accommodate.

New TOCAU website runs slower than a slug with a hangover on the computers at work...

Limo tint, glass an inch thick and climate-control aircon that could power a small office building means that you can pretty much guarantee it'll be 18 degrees inside, no matter what the weather is like outside.

Hume for speed, Princes for sanity....so probably Hume, especially if it's going to be another Big Pete midnight special

No idea sorry, only recommendation would be hire a ute and trailer. The car is basically spoken for anyway, if that falls through I'll let you know.

Would have been about a dozen of us that made the full loop 2 years ago (maybe 20-odd that made it as far as Wollombi for lunch), I bailed at Broke last year since we stopped at the village fair/classic car show for a while and the day would have been too long if I'd done the full loop.

Toymods Putty Rd cruise

If you think that's long, try combining it with a there-and-back trip from Newcastle......Newcastle-Glebe-Berowra-Wollombi-Broke-Putty-Windsor-Castle Hill-Newcastle, with only one driver.....man that was long day, but an awesome cruise.

What about heads of state of oil-rich African countries who get chauffeur driven everywhere? Sure, they may be a minority group, but let's not discriminate, okay. When you're that rich you don't buy a car, you get the car you want made

Negative, he is a meat popsicle.

JZZ30 Soarers don't run the hydro fan, they run a clutch-style fan driven directly off the nose of the water-pump.

Can't claim the craftsmanship as my own, unfortunately...

Technically was on the weekend, but I forgot this thread existed until yesterday :P Copied from member's ride thread... Well, I thought that it was such a lovely day this morning that I'd go outside and stare at the engine bay of the Snoarer for a little while... Yep, all looks normal there Woops, I was carrying this small section of pipe and some other stuff and I just slipped...is that supposed to go there? Ahh much better now Om nom nom nom.....