Hiro

Seriously? Tracks have differing conditions, whereas dyno's can be controlled environments. Tracks also take into account driver error. Dyno's have a controlled airflow with the use of fans as well. They both have their purposes, but in this case a dyno is sufficient for the intended purposes. If the weather conditions stay consistent, with back-to-back 1/4mi runs (with short cooldown to get intake temps back down) I'd be favouring the drag strip over a dyno for reliably showing improvements. Auto would help to limit variability in launches (or you could do a rolling start like a 40-100km/h test for instance in a manual). Whilst dynos do have controlled airflow it doesn't fully replicate the airflow that a car would get at the speeds it is going on a dyno (for instance, the Snoarer got up to 190km/h when it was on the dyno), dyno cells can be substantially warmer than outside air (which can defeat the effect of a "cold" air intake), and back-to-back runs almost always yield different power results (from heat-soak etc). I've seen 10-20kw drops on back-to-back dyno runs on a turbo car, despite being run within a minute of each other and the operator flooring it each time.

I'd take that comparison with a grain of salt. Firstly, it was at least 5 years ago (I've seen it as long as I've been posting on car forums) so there is a very good chance that all the filters in the test have changed since then (what company doesn't improve it's product over 5 years?), it wasn't a terribly scientific test, and it could quite easily have been skewed towards a particular product (anyone who's read the Street Commodores oil comparison will know what I'm talking about).

Geez, so is ANYONE actually coming from Queensland now?

Doesn't make sense? Overdrive in a 4-speed auto is 4th gear, so it is strange that it would be in 4th when cold. Drive isn't technically a "gear" either but rather allows the gearbox to select any gear, so it can't drop "into" Drive from 4th/OD - the gear selector will be in the "D" slot but the auto can actually be in 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th depending on road speed and engine load. Maybe you're thinking that the transmission isn't dropping into OD/4th from 3rd when cold? If so then it is completely normal, a lot of 90s transmissions prevent the gearbox from selecting 4th/OD when the engine is cold, even if the OD button is pressed in, as it prevents the engine from being loaded up in too tall a gear whilst still cold (and also helps with warm-up times).

Got to be quick with me around...

I'll eat them...

More intelligent than those who do! I wouldn't say more intelligent, just less unintelligent....

Automate it with a radar detector! by the time it detects the radar you are ****** up the **** anyway. *hands over some vaseline* Radar detectors would work as they can pick it up before line-of-sight occurs. LIDAR/laser on the other hand, is invisible to detectors up until the instant you're painted.

Also, CAIs will benefit more from actual road driving conditions, rather than sitting stationary on the dyno (which doesn't have great airflow for instance).

CAIs can be effective on turbo cars too, if anything.go moreso as turbo cars are more sensitive to intake air temps than N/A

Aaaannd Pete's beaten everyone to the punch..

Guys I'm going to be booking a room at the Jika Internaitonal this week, any interstaters who wants to go halves (rooms have two beds and the rate is per-night not per person) is welcome to tag along but I'll need to know by Friday arvo as I think they've got 10% off this week ($100 per night for the room so $50 each if sharing)

Tried to bump the ride height up on the Soarer to try and fix the extra scraping caused by the lower downpipe only to find that the HKS coilovers don't have independent ride height adjustment, just the spring pre-load....bugger. Also stuck my head under the rear wheel to try and work out the cause of the extreme alignment, couldn't see anything visibly bent or broken so it is looking more and more like a chassis problem, which is just what I need right now, not...

Not going to be able to make it tonight, Soarer is pretty much off the road at the moment so not going to Dyno Day either

Newcastle, so maybe a tiny bit more

Since I'm the token Newcastle member, probably not (since I'm staying the night for the dyno day on Sunday)

Tempted, postage might be a bit much though...

The alternator is the tensioner - loosen the lock-bolt and the sliding bolt on the bottom of the alternator, then pivot it down to release tension on the belt - don't touch the top bolt except maybe to loosen it half a turn just so it can pivot.

Umm, there are Australian distributors/retailers for BBS wheels (Magwheel Centre are the official distributors). Also, BBS are originally German not Japanese, so unless the wheels are physically made in Japan (I believe some are, but not all) it means you're paying for double-handling.

There was a comparison test done ages ago that gets posted up almost any time there is a discussion about K&N filters etc, the K&N didn't exactly perform the best but it certainly was far from the worst (I think the 3A filters came out on top for both filtration and performance but it is a very easy test to skew bias towards a particular brand), and it has the added benefit of being an oiled reusable filter that saves money over the life of the car compared to washable dry or disposable filters, providing the servicing is done according to the instructions.

Completely different wheel and company, just similar style (most wheel companies will do a mesh-style rim). Compomotive are a UK company specialising in wheels for motorsport, and have a rich history with rally cars. BBS are a German company, and do a lot of OEM and motorsport wheels, but are famous for their mesh-style wheels (especially the LM). Both are what you would call "premium" wheel manufacturers, not cheap knock-offs/copies that you get at Tempe or Ozzy Tyres.

Old mate sounds like an idiot - the whole point of a filter is to keep dust and dirt OUT of the engine....K&N filters are traditionally oiled, as long as you don't let them dry out then there should be no problems whatsoever.

AE102s have a timing belt (not a chain), but it is behind a cover and highly unlikely to be the problem (plus, toothed belts are highly unlikely to slip and thus squeal). The culprit will be one of the exposed accessory/drive belts that power the air-con, alternator, water pump and power-steering pump.

I think I'll have to take you up on that offer - dyno day is the next day and it'll save me a crack-o'-dawn dash down the freeway.

That's the 2007 Toyota FT-HS concept hybrid. As with most concept cars, it was never really intended for production. As for the ST18Xs, I'd hardly call them a classic shape. Yes, the ST185 does have a pedigree in rally, and is a classic in terms of performance and results (it was Toyota's most successful rally car and the dominant car of the early 90s) but the shape itself is pretty ordinary to be honest, especially the ungainly coupe.