Hiro

Plenty of old-skool aircraft engines had sequential supercharger setups. This was where the term "intercooler" came from, as it was placed between the two stages ("inter" = in between). The proper term for an intercooler in a car is a "charge air cooler" or "aftercooler" (as it is after the supercharger phases). We're talking about 20L V12s here though, and the superchargers were to combat the loss of power at altitude due to thinning air, but the concept is the same.

First rule of modified cars - what you paid on the mods is irrelevant. What the finished product is worth is what "value" is based off. Example - we bought a Soarer last year for $13,000, that included a sound system that the owner paid $15,000 for. Does that mean the car by itself was worth -$2000? Of course not. Maybe you should post some photos up, it is very hard to gauge value based on a few lines of text. Pictures tell a thousand words. EDIT - going off the list of mods (I'm assuming "serspaion" is suspension), it'll probably be worth LESS than a clean stocker. Every man and his dog has modified an AE92 with bodykits, big wheels and loud paint jobs, so much so that a clean original stock model is worth more. Remember at the end of the day it is still a 22 year old car that wasn't particularly expensive when it came out, so don't expect the sheikhs to be knocking at your door offering an oil-well and an emirate in trade.

Is it an AE92 or AE82? Unless it's a Twincam/SX, it's worth bugger all, maybe $1.5k if you're lucky and it is absolutely mint. Twincams and SXs command higher prices, but it would need to be in exactly in the same condition it rolled off the showroom floor or professionally restored, meticulously cared for or highly highly modified to get anywhere near $5k. Sure the k's are low, but that can mean that it has sat in a shed for a lot of its life and hasn't been looked after/serviced properly (especially if it has been serviced based on kms and not time)

Touchwood it doesn't lol if the rain ruins my tunnel run i will cry ahahahah Doesn't rain in tunnels though :P

Enter-on-the-day but it is requested that you bring the entry forms pre-filled and exact cash, costs $10 to enter per car (free if you're just spectating).

ECU sold, rest of the gear still available, need funds for brakes and diff

Will be there as usual, not sure about which cars we'll be bringing this year though...

6mm extra in your sump will probably be fine, the level drops by easily double that when the engine is running so you shouldn't have problems with windage etc. If it was an extra 2L or so then I can see issues but chances are if the car didn't feel any different and there were no visible signs like smoke then all is well. Does sound like placebo effect though after you drained it, would have felt better simply because you weren't worrying about it anymore :P

People seem to be forgetting that whilst power stays the same between flywheel and wheels (ignoring drivetrain losses), torque is multiplied or divided by the change in speeds through the gearbox, final drive, and the wheels themselves (since a dyno will be measuring torque on the rollers). For example: 180Nm at the flywheel would probably equate to around 800Nm at the wheels (1:1 4th gear ratio and 4.4:1 final drive ratio, for a rough example), but that could then drop down to 400Nm on the rollers (if the wheels are twice the size of the rollers). Then take into account losses through the drivetrain (power, torque and RPM are intrinsically linked), and you can see how you might get 360Nm displayed on a dyno chart for a car only really putting out 180Nm at the flywheel.

Adjustable shocks don't change ride height one iota (coilovers do though)

Dyno torque cannot be compared to flywheel torque as readily as power can be... Most of the time it is output as tractive effort anyway, which is a much more useful figure

Stood around waiting for 4.5 hours whilst the dude installed the new double-din Kenwood/Garmin GPS DVD headunit in the Snoarer. What initially started out as a 10am booking turned out to be more like a 3pm one because of a nightmare of a STi and a douche who didn't know how to adjust his equaliser and was complaining to the installer that he'd been ripped off...

Make sure when you take it out to give the thread on the plug and the block a good clean and then hit it with some thread sealant, the last thing you want is a poor seal and for coolant to drain everywhere...

Yeah i'm planing on changing the gear ratio as well. just needed confirmation that the engine would fit. Didnt they come out in a rwd version anyway for the sprinter? only the 16V 4AGE was in RWD. As an interesting note the AA63 celica came from the factory with a 4AGE. And even then it was only the 3-rib bigport that was longitudinal/RWD, and that is the least powerful of the lot - 86kw and ~130Nm in a ~1100kg car isn't going to set the world on fire. The easiest install is to swap the 18RC out for an 18RG, that'll instantly give you ~100kw and ~180Nm plus you get the aural enjoyment of twin sidedraught carbies...

Comverting a 20v to RWD takes a fair bit of work. Also, remember these cars came out with a 2.0L standard so you'd be probably going backwards as far as torque goes so don't expect a rocket ship for your efforts...

Definitely not normal to be using that much fuel, my parents have a '96 5SFE Camry and it gets better than Redbook figures around town (that is with manual though) and it has done 300,000k. The temp gauge staying cold unless in traffic is a classic sign of the thermostat being jammed open, which can increase fuel consumption (as the engine isn't warming up and running rich). Could be a few other issues, try checking for error codes and then resetting the ECU, good old-fashioned tune-up/service (oil + filter, air filter, spark plugs, good fuel etc) can't hurt either.

Essentially the same engine and drive-train though so wouldn't make much difference...

How about the 248fwkw Sportivo owned by our very own moderator Xoom?

Back up to the top...

Down to $450 now, need these gone...

If you check the RTA website you'll see that the Parramatta Rd/Burwood Rd intersection is a safety camera, not just a red-light camera, and thus the flashes could be for someone else speeding through the intersection to miss the red. Personally, don't fret about it until you actually get a notice in the mail, otherwise you could be just working yourself up over nothing.

So did Jase get those 4-spokes off you for his 82 FXGT John?

Dropped the Snoarer off to get the radiator fixed, was hoping to stretch it until Xmas so we could splurge on an alloy JAR one but the top tank said no....

If the starter motor is turning over but the engine isn't firing, then it is unlikely to be battery or starter related. Engines need 3 main things in the right quantities to fire 1) Air 2) Fuel 3) Spark + timing This would be the order in which I would try things 1) Jump start - if this works, then the battery is most likely defective and not supplying enough power to the starter motor (unlikely cause unless the starter is sounding weak) 2) Clutch start (if it is manual) - this will rule out any fuel/air/spark problems and basically narrow it down to battery or starter. 3) Check battery terminals and ground wiring - poor connections can limit the amount of power being supplied to the starter 4) Check for ECU error codes 5) Check for spark + fuel - pull a spark plug and test the plug against the head to see if you are getting spark. If not, then there is a problem in the distributor, coil or leads. Check timing with a timing light, although this won't be super accurate during cranking 6) Check for fuel - check that the fuel pump is priming the engine, and that the injectors are operating (they "tick")