Hiro

Next step was trying to sort out the brake shudder - previous owner indicated that they had been told by the mechanic at last service/rego that the rears were almost done, so I figured that would be the first place to start. Ordered new rotors and pads (didn't bother with the parking brake shoes), arrived quick-smart so got to work swapping them in.... Man I forgot how much I hated drum brakes. Even though the rear brakes are disc, the parking brake works via shoes against the inside of the rotor hat, which means you have to back them off when replacing the rotors otherwise they can catch on a lip. Well, it turns out that I mustn't have backed them off enough (or they stuck to the inside of the rotor), because when I pulled off the right rear (had to use the jacking screws because it wasn't coming by hand) the shoes had grabbed on to something and managed to _bend_ the entire backing plate (despite the only connection between the shoes and the plate being two nail-thin pins). This meant that the new rotor (or the old one, for that matter) could not fit back over the shoes regardless of how much they were backed off, so I was up Schitt's Creek without a rowing instrument. Cue a fit of inspiration to literally rip the entire parking brake hardware off the backing plate, smash the thing back as close to flat as possible with a sledgehammer, tie up the cable to the back of the hub and then make a break-of-dawn run down to Sydney the next day (with no working handbrake) to pick up a new wheel hub....which just turned out to be an entire rear torsion beam assembly, because it required less disassembly (and also gave a few spares). Good thing I bought a wagon, and in a moment of poetic irony the first part the parts hauler hauled was literally it's own rear end (like a Babuskha doll) All goes back together without a hitch, then the new rotors and pads finally fit and my brake shudder problems were solved. Except they weren't. So I figured that it must be the fronts, instead (not like there was any other option, apart from the uncomfortable possibility of excessive runout). Didn't really have time before Christmas to order new rotors (at least pads I could get off the shelf), but fortunately I had a spare set of DBA T2s lying around that were slated to go on the ZZE102 (since the SuperStrut brakes run essentially the same 275mm front rotors). Bit of overkill for a daily wagon hack, but time was more important and I wasn't driving up to Coffs to go camping over NYE with shuddering brakes. At least these went in without a hitch (apart from having to take a few hours break whilst I tracked down which mate I had lent my caliper piston resetting tool to). And lo and behold, the shudder was cured. So speaking of camping, this was one of the reasons why we bought a wagon in the first place (other than being a parts hauler). Still tonnes of room (pretty much from window line up to the roof) Anyway, after we got back in the new year, I set about getting stuck in to the rest of the planned initial mods. First up, towbar. Should be simple, new towbar and straight car (no accident history) should mean everything lines up nice and neat, right? Right? Guess again. Looks like Blind Freddy got a job at TAG some time last year, and welded together my towbar as straight as Mardi Gras So now I've got to go through the hassle of an eBay return of a metre-long chunk of steel, which is always fun. Still, at least the day wasn't a total write-off, as I acquired a set of 16" wheels to progress one step further along the path to Dad-bod Sportivo.

First mod done - replace the (disconnected) factory headunit with a Bluetooth/ACP/AA unit, so I no longer get bored ****less driving a 1ZZ down the freeway with no audio enhancement Still need to get the reverse camera installed and wired up, but that can wait until the towbar goes on

Has it rained a lot lately? You'll always get scraping noises etc from the built-up surface rust on the brake rotors after a bout of heavy rain, goes away in a few seconds of driving or the first time you hit the brakes (the handbrake will often be stuck too and will break free causing a jolt in the same situation)

What is included/required in the service? It might sound like a lot but there could be key components due for replacement that are going to be expensive regardless of where you take it. Conversely, someone offering you a cheap rate might be skipping out on those jobs to cut corners.

Very neat solution although I wouldn't benefit from it for most of my sockets (all my regular 12-point Cr-V sockets and most of my short impacts) as they sit vertically in the tray, could still be useful for when I have a couple lying on the ground next to me especially if they are close in size (hard to confuse a 10mm for a 17mm for instance).

Toyota's diagnostics of this period consists of a paperclip or short length of wire bridging the TE1 and E1 pins of the diagnostic plugs, and counting the flashes of the Check Engine Light.

Looking at the Toyota website, the Workmate and SR do not have built-in navigation but the SR5, Rogue and Rugged X do. However, all models come with Apple Car Play/Android Auto compatibility, so you will be able to use the navigation apps built in to your phone if you connect to the car via USB.

It could well be pre-wiring for a remote electronic release, it could also possibly be linked to the central locking system as I believe the top-spec models (Ultima) had a proximity keyless entry system, maybe they had a sensor and switch/handle in the boot lid for opening without the key. The boot light (if fitted) is normally triggered from a switch mounted to the body rather than the boot lid/hatch, so it won't be that.

I can now confirm this does fit, with the exception of the additional brace that connects the pipe-work to the end of the head - on the Aus-market cars there is a vacuum surge tank installed where the brace would mount to. Thus, the pipe just rests on the pinch-weld rubber seal that goes around the hole in the heat shield - if everything is snug then it doesn't rattle but I'll need to double-check after a few more thousand k to make sure it isn't rubbing through.

You're mis-remembering things - all Toyota engine numbers will always start with the engine block/series code (ie the first half, without the head/injection detail), and a 2ZZ is a completely different engine (never found in a Camry anywhere in the world, let alone Australia). The engine number should also be recorded on your registration paperwork (I know it is in NSW) so if you have an old copy you can always check against that. And most likely the engine cradle was dropped so that the front end could be adjusted on the alignment machine, since the cradle would have been attached to the lower radiator support panel and thus could affect the operation. Or, also possible, is that the front of the cradle itself was damaged and thus needed replacement. I'm not saying that something hasn't been swapped, but you're making a _lot_ of assumptions with only circumstancial evidence. Things like missing coolant overflow bottles or horns (almost certainly damaged in the accident) definitely should have been replaced but don't imply a swapped engine.

"Remote" release just refers to the lever in the cabin (a lot of old cars didn't have even that - the key in the lock was the only way to open it), it doesn't imply the remote-control on the keyfob.

In the 7th gen (the model before this) we had a "ghost vent" - a blanked-off air vent (ie it had the louvres but they were fixed, with the back closed off and no pipe feeding it) where the digital clock goes on JDM models. Was a great place to put a clip-in air-freshener since you didn't have to worry about damaging the louvres, and since there was no airflow coming through the vent the scent lasted a lot longer

ASV50 is the code for the entire car, not the engine specifically. In particular, the code breaks down like this AR - engine code, referring to the AR engine family XV - chassis code for the widebody series Camry (prior to 1993 it was just V) However, Toyota in general only uses 3 letters to represent the combined engine and chassis codes, so ARXV gets condensed to ASV 5x - generation code, in this case referring to the 5th generation Camry (the number doesn't always match the actual generation as Toyota does skip numbers, for instance the 10x Corolla is actually the 7th generation) x0 - model within that generation code - this will also usually determine which specific engine from the engine family is used And finally, the R (outside of Japan, which uses the last letter to often signify body shape) simply means Right Hand Drive (and at the time, Toyota Australia was producing RHD Camrys for local consumption and LHD Camrys for export to the Middle East). A lot of catalogues don't bother with the last letter (as it often doesn't make a difference) And after that code will be the trim codes, such as -DETDKQ, with each letter denoting spec/options like drivetrain, body shape, trim/spec etc etc In short, there is no such thing as an ASV50 engine, there is simply a 2AR-FE engine _from_ an ASV50.

Not only leaks, but it is directly above the steering wheel....so when it rains overnight etc the steering column surround fills up with water, and the first corner he takes dumps it all over his legs

I've got a set stashed for when I build my 2ZZ, don't think there's anything wrong with the ones in there at the moment but I like a clean slate

List of mods and fixes in the short-term future (depending on availability), in no particular order Headunit (already ordered, factory unit not wired up due to previous owner doing a cut-n-shut) Rear brakes (rotors and pads already ordered), brake shudder at higher speeds (>60k), fronts look OK though Slimline weather shields Front foglights Power windows (at least fronts) Towbar Lowering (not excessive, still needs to handle gravel roads on occasion for bike trails/camping etc) + wheels

Got a mate who drives an LDV people-mover for work, hasn't hit first service yet and the windscreen already leaks.

So I went and did a thing the other day. Barring a KE10, we have now completed ownership of every single odd-numbered Corolla generation (3, 5, 7, 11 and now finally 9), and in some ways the fact that my pending existence caused my mother to have to sell her KE10 is kinda poetic (and ironic). So, meet Marvin - both after Marvin the Paranoid Android from HHGTTG (the movie remake unfortunately, since the BBC miniseries version was silver rather than white), and Lee Marvin from the classic Western musical Paint Your Wagon (I was just stretching for any name connected to the word "wagon" really). Pertinent details 2006 Ascent wagon 218k Manual (I am pathologically unable to buy an auto if manual is a viable option) All 3 cupholder dividers present and correct (apparently a minor miracle) Boot room for days Yes it will be getting some (minor) modifications No I won't be putting the 2ZZ in to it instead of the 102 Yes I still have the 102 No it isn't finished yet. by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/156852526@N07/]Ian Rigby[/url], on Flickr

There were a couple of revisions, pretty sure the last of them was after the Sportivo went on sale but the last change or two were pretty minor.

Don't forget lift bolts

That is the air-injection/smog pump pipe, basically on the more stringent emissions packages fresh air was injected directly in to the exhaust stream to assist with complete combustion/oxidation of un-burnt hydrocarbons caused by running rich. The smog pump wasn't fitted on Australian-delivered 2ZZs (either Celica or Sportivo), so if you get a set of headers from overseas with the feed pipe you need to remove it and block the ports.

Easiest way to be sure is to just pop the blown bulb out and take it with you in to the store - online catalogues are sometimes wrong or show different parts from different markets etc

In saying that though, there was another post on here recently about another VX 150-series diesel struggling to meet the rated consumption, so could well be a common thing (or that the testing regime isn't 100% reflective on real-world driving, not the first time that has happened)

What type of trips are you doing? Fully loaded? Roof racks/boxes etc? Have you changed tyres to something more offroad-y? Big 4WDs are often sensitive to even slight variations in cruising speed as the aerodynamic drag is much more significant than a passenger car, so you might be able to achieve 8L/100k @90-100km/h but as soon as you accelerate up to 110k it plummets to 12L/100k for instance. Driving style too will also make a big difference Also, how are you calculating your economy?

Max 5 years old but only 8-10k is a tall order in the current used car market, except maybe for something like an MG or other bargain-basement runaround (possibly Hyundai or an un-loved Nissan or Holden). In Toyota-land you _might_ just be able to scrape in a 2015/2016 high-k Yaris base model, but depending on how strict you are with the other requirements it's a no-go anyway (still got handbrake lever). For the reversing camera just get one installed aftermarket, since you're going to be looking at base models they're often fairly bare-bones in the equipment stakes (and if you're doing lots of road trips you'd most likely want a new headunit with Bluetooth etc).