Hiro

Are you sure there isn't one too many zeros there? A million k in 5 years (because no-one drove anywhere last year) is 200,000k a year, 10 times what the average person probably does. And if it is true, no offence but no-one in their right mind would buy a million-k car with no service history (especially not a late-model one).

Every one of the videos Tony posted were from Just Rolled In...

Not only is the 3.0L a diesel, it's also a 4-cylinder 😛

Really depends on whether it is DC (battery voltage) or inverted AC. If it is truly meant to be an emergency mains supply in Japan then it would have to be 100V inverted AC, which would then correspond to 15A (which is still a sizeable amount of current). I think Toyota's hybrid batteries tend to be around 250V which would mean only 6A, but 250V DC will fry just about anything you would normally plug in to a DC source (normal cars are only 12V).

Japan uses the same NEMA 1 socket/plug as the USA does, 150V seems a bit high for Japan though (their domestic supply is 100-120V).

120km/h is probably killing your consumption. Dropping down to 110 or 100 will make a big difference. Any additions like bullbars, roof boxes, off-road tyres etc will also have an impact

Stock TRD Aurion is 240kW. There's no such thing as a stock JZA80 Supra, and even if there was there's almost no chance it's putting out the same power it did back in 2002 (and who knows what that stock figure even was, due to the figures being fudged as part of the Gentleman's Agreement). But if we do go off the official numbers, then the VVTi 2JZ has ~50Nm more torque despite having less capacity and less max power (which means that the 206kW is likely to be _heavily_ underrated, more like 240-250kW), and 0-100 tests tend to show it pulling in the low-mid 5s range (some places even list high 4s), whereas the TRD Aurion was in the 6s. Aurion is also ~100kg heavier than the Supra, FWD with no LSD.

Methinks you've read the range of the diesel model (which @ 7L/100k can get 2100k out of 150L) rather than the petrol (which is only rated at 9.4L/100k on the highway)... 1200km out of ~150L (call it 140L just so you're not draining the tanks absolutely dry) is 11.7L/100km, which is bang on the average combined economy for the 1GR petrol model.

TYK6932 was the standard clutch for the older A-series powered Corollas (AE102, AE112 etc), and was probably the original clutch on the 1ZZ-powered ZZE122s as well. The TYK7334 was the uprated clutch fitted to the 2ZZ-powered ZZE123, which consists of the same friction disc and throwout bearing but a higher-rated pressure plate. Thus, it is quite possible that that TYK7334 _is_ the TYK6932HD, and thus the 7334HD also corresponds to the 6932HHD (as far as all the internal parts are concerned), but the "kits" are numbered differently because of the different applications (and maybe to stop people trying to cheap out and put a plain 6932 on a 2ZZ). In short, standard 2ZZ clutch = heavy-duty 1ZZ clutch, heavy duty 2ZZ = heavy heavy duty 1ZZ. Looking at Exedy's website now, they don't even list the 6932 for the ZZE122s any more, so I wouldn't be surprised if they're just letting it run obsolete (they do still list it for the 102/112 however)

The 1ZZ and 2ZZ clutches are interchangeable (flywheels are not), however I would still only run the 2ZZ clutch behind a 2ZZ (it could be considered an upgrade on a 1ZZ). Bolt pattern/dowels/area are the same, however the 2ZZ clutch will have a higher clamping force (to suit the ~40% extra power).

Considered getting longer studs?

The Rav4 isn't a PHEV (plug-in hybrid) so it isn't designed to be recharged from an outside source (only via the transmission/generator). Not saying it can't be done though

It is still in the range though. Also, the M20A is by far and away the most sporty engine that any standard Corolla has ever had, so it isn't underpowered even when you slot it in to the bigger Rav4 (it also goes in to the Camry overseas too), and is more than sufficient for the soccer-moms and commuters who make up the majority of Rav4 owners. Plenty of countries/markets around the world get by just fine with engine sizes and power levels that most of us would cringe at.

First time is always the hardest, you constantly doubt everything you're doing and usually make the wrong decisions when it comes to the best way to attack things, but it is all a learning process and you pick it up very quickly. First time I did brake pads it took me probably an hour on the first caliper, but only 15 minutes on the second. Now, I can do them in my sleep.

It does have the Camry 2.5L, in the Edge model. And the 2.0L Dynamic Force engine has as much power as the old 2.5L 2AR did in the previous Rav4 (which was the same size/weight), so I really don't see the issue here? The previous model also had a 2.0L in the base model, with only a paltry 107kw (the old 3ZRFE that the Corolla Ultima sedan used to have), so nothing out of the ordinary here.

No need to remove anything up top, the top pin will act as the pivot point (might be a little bit sticky if they're old). Also make sure the handbrake isn't on at the same time, as these cars use the rear caliper for the handbrake and not a separate internal drum.

When doing brake pads on a floating caliper you should only undo 1 bolt anyway (the lower bolt), and just swing the caliper up out of the way (the top pin/sleeve can just slide out). Much easier to reset the piston and slide over the new pads if you keep the caliper still partly attached rather than completely unbolting it.

Battery tray notched to clear the selector counterweight (first time with an angle-grinder and managed to avoid setting fire to anything or cutting something unintended), selector cables test-run through the firewall (could be a little shorter) and solid brass bushes added to the eyelets. Can now officially select all 6 gears + reverse (doesn't mean much without an engine and driveshafts though :p) [ Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Well not much has changed in the last year (what with COVID and still being in warranty and all), but not long after the above lowering was done the SX/ZR wheels that I had stashed away copped a load of Pilot Sport 4s and went on (was waiting for the lowering springs to go in and for a 25%-off tyre sale) Here's how she sat, waiting for the train of cars to arrive at Nepean Dam for CCAD 2021

It'd mean taking your intake off, but it might be worthwhile seeing if you can get a look down the intake ports of the head and see what there is in the tract that generates the swirl. My concern with sealing the relief hole is that there is a good chance the actuator has failed internally (which means the o-ring isn't to blame, it's the diaphragm itself) and if you seal the relief it'll either build up pressure or flow up the vacuum tube back to the source, which means oil in places that it wasn't meant to go. Obviously if you plug the vacuum source it won't go anywhere else, but you'll still end up with an actuator full of oil that was only meant to hold air. Also, locking the actuator in position will mean you'll either be left with always swirling or never swirling (depending what the "neutral" state of the valve is, which is why I mentioned scoping the intake port above), so if it isn't the situation you'd prefer then maybe you might need to jam/weld the actuator shut/open. And a bit more info, seems like this isn't an isolated issue http://toyopetcoronadeluxe.proj.jp/st150/a-sca.html

It's the swirl control valve, it actuates a rod which turns butterflies (or the like) inside each intake port which makes the incoming air flow more turbulent which apparently atomises the fuel better.

5.9Nm according to the Toyota engine manual, make sure the washers haven't disintegrated (they are wont to do so) otherwise they will leak (and they'll break if you do them up too tight)

They were everywhere when I was in Beijing three years ago, definitely one of the bigger "domestic" Chinese brands rather than a partnership with a global one (VW etc) or a bought-out classic brand (Buick, MG). On a lot of them the badge actually lights up in the dark, which was kinda cool but also looked incredibly cheap. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Not looking at it from the top by any chance? Seems like the 2ZZ takes the same type of spin-on filter as most other Toyotas (and the 1ZZ takes the exact same filter as my 7AFE, which is definitely a RH/clockwise thread)

First I've heard of a LH-threaded Toyota oil filter, are you using a relocation kit? Or was it just cross-threaded to buggery?