Hiro

They're actually one of the biggest Japanese harness makers too, any dorifto worth his flat-cap will have knock-off green Takata harnesses fitted to his knock-off Bride bucket seats.

I'd say more likely the OP is asking about approach/departure angles in the ground clearance sense (ie how steep a ramp can you hit before bottoming out)

Was tongue-in-cheek, me and Rizzi go way back...

Pictures aren't loading properly, I keep seeing a 1ZZ...

We had that for years with the Tarago, and sales were obviously not strong enough to continue it. Spending millions to re-engineer the Sienna (which isn't actually much smaller than the Granvia) would not be a wise decision for Toyota considering how small the minivan/MPV segment is relatively speaking.

Considering Toyota Aus has just discontinued the Tarago and replaced it with the Hiace-based Granvia, I highly doubt they'd consider the Sienna (plua I'm 99% sure they don't even exist in RHD anyway, being designed and built for the American market)

The number for sale probably isn't that unusual (similar thing happened with the 86), but I'd say a lot of people would be holding off on buying one until the updated version comes out (either to see how much better it is, or for it to drive the value of used ones down further).

Take a photo of the build plate/s under the bonnet, that should instantly tell you what it is. V20 Camrys were built in Aus except for the V6 model which was imported from Japan. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Just remember if you have the type of CV axle where the nut is staked in to the side of the shaft (as per that picture) rather than a castle nut, that you have to completely knock out the stake with a punch otherwise it will completely strip the threads on both the nut and the axle when you try and rattle-gun them off. Ask me how I know.

They are metric in the sense that the threads are metric. Quite possible that the hex is slightly under-size (or is sized to allow the 13/16" socket to fit for commonality EDIT: For reference, the vast majority of Toyota wheel studs have been M12x1.5 for donkeys years

It is an "ECU" in a way because it is an Electronic Control Unit, just most people normally think ECU only refers to the one for the engine. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Didn't actually see the photos initially (they don't show up in Tapatalk), that's 100% a hub-centric ring Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Check to make sure there aren't any hub-centric rings fused to the hub hiding under a layer of crud, there was no change to the ZZE12x centre bore. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Finally got around to convincing the wife to let me fit the springs, actually ended up getting a new rear pair as the other ones were a bit pitted and rusty. Blue springs for a blue car, of course. Ended up with 40mm drop on the front and 30mm on the rear (but the rears should settle a little more seeing as how they are new). Passed the shoe test (cheated and used a boot :p), does make getting in and out of the driveway a little trickier since we have rolled gutters (so there is no dip on the driveway portion). Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

AutoOne Castle Hill, the owners are two long-time Toymods club members Pretty sure it was me who was doing the suggesting, on Toyotanation

So, time for another little catch-up - time for SuperStrut brake fitment (just in time for it to get de-registered and taken off the road for the 2ZZ conversion, natch) Calipers and carriers vapour-blasted ready for overhaul (second set for @theguitarhero4) Primed Top-coated (I went matte-black, Andrew went silver) Interestingly when I got my wheel bearings replaced back in 2017 the new hubs came without the 55mm step in them.....so the AE111 rotors I sourced would no longer fit properly (also meant that the new rotors I got when trying to diagnose the wheel bearings have been flopping around with a mil diameter clearance for 2 and a half years, well that explains the brake shudder...). Good thing I still had the 54.1mm AE101 rotors as a backup Rotor now centred well in the pad carrier, if I wanted to use the more commonly available DBA759 Sportivo rotor I'd probably have to get another 2mm machined off the carrier and that would be a little too much for my liking Make sure to use the SuperStrut pad not the ST204 Celica pad (Celica pads are thicker and the caliper won't fit over them), I used DP3995C EBC Redstuffs but any pad for the later SW20 MR2s will fit (same pad as the SuperStrut Corolla) Caliper fitted And new braided lines just for bling And the end result

Damn that's a good deal (assuming quality is decent), you're normally looking at like ~$80-100 for even a single 1/2" Kinchrome one or a couple of hundred for a Bahco/Warren&Brown (although they'd be overkill for a home mechanic)

How much did it cost you for the set? I've got an old 1/2" torque wrench lying around that I used to use for wheel nuts but it's a bit rusty and I have absolutely no confidence in its accuracy, could really use a new 1/2" and 1/4" for when I start my engine conversion (don't have any 3/8" sockets, it's all 1/2" except for anything below 10mm)

One pair of freshly overhauled twin-piston Superstrut brake calipers and Celica pad carriers done and dusted. Was pretty nerveracking installing the dust seal circlip for the first time but got the hang of it by the end. One of the slide pin boots does have a tiny split in it but I figured I'd do more damage removing and replacing it with another fresh one, especially since I don't have a bench vice. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Well, I managed to just avoid having this thing in my garage for 2 years.....by one freaking day. I really do move slowly sometimes... Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Aaaand now the brake lines Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

What are the regulations in your part of the world for grey imports? They weren't sold in Australia either, they have to be imported used from Japan.

We had two separate starting problems on the wife's SXV20, first one was an almost non-existent negative terminal (and I mean non-existent, I've seen Swiss cheese with more structural integrity) which meant that the ground was downright ordinary, so on hot (or cold) days it would randomly just not fire at all. Second time it was really reluctant to start (you could hear it lugging over and often just didn't have the guts), swapped in a second-hand Denso reduction unit from an SXV10 (the SXV20 had a Bosch unit) and that fixed it for a while but even then it eventually started losing power after a while. By that time we had gotten rid of the car though so it was the new owner's problem.

Pads have arrived, just waiting on the braided lines now Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Painted the Superstrut twin-piston calipers, was torn between matte black and silver but eventually went with the black (got both cans as @theguitarhero4 wanted silver regardless) Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk