Hiro

Interesting, what was interfering that caused you to have to modify it? Been looking for a short-shifter for the wife's ZRE182 ever since MWR pulled their old version (which fitted to the gear lever itself), with the ZRE182 being very similar to the US ZRE186 iM it might be a bit better.

I'm glad you used your arm for the reference length in that last photo, and not something.....else...

-03A will be the differential code, the numbers refer to the ratio (not the actual ratio, but in this case the 3rd variant for that transmission) and the letter will be whether it has an LSD or not (A is usually open-diff, B would be LSD etc).

I'm still debating whether I'll use the onboard one on the E440D, does make the intake design easier but I'm kinda averse to running a vacuum line through the firewall (just because of length and possibility of vac leaks etc).

Can't remember if I've asked you this before or not, but what MAP sensor setup did you end up going with?

Was the same adage with the old 253ci Holden V8 - the power of the 202ci straight-six but the fuel-consumption of the 308ci V8.

One of the problems with glass is that it is very brittle - if it is constantly under stress then one small crack or weak point can make the whole thing fail, often instantly and catastrophically (especially safety glass). Just look at the videos of people throwing ball-bearings at windows Frameless rear hatches (ie with the latch, hinges and struts bonded to the glass) have been around in various cars for decades though, so I doubt there is some fundamental design flaw with Toyota's implementation in this case. More likely either a defect or unseen damage.

Bit late to the party, but gas struts don't "trigger", they are always loaded when compressed and it is the release of the latching mechanism (on the hatch itself) which will cause it to open. Obviously in this case the failure of the glass has disconnected the latch from the struts, which then extend out easily as they have no resistance - they are sized to the weight of the complete hatch (you'll often see this on cars which have different struts depending on whether the hatch/boot has a spoiler or windscreen wiper etc so extra weight) so the lightweight spoiler on its own is relatively nothing. Now, the glass could have failed _because_ the struts were putting too much stress on it, but the glass would have to have been weakened by some other factor (either a defect, weather, or some kind of damage/impact/stress) in order to fail otherwise these would have been popping left right and centre from the day of manufacture (gas struts often lose their "strength" over the years too which would impart even less force as the car gets older, which leads to them getting replaced).

I reckon the speedo in my work D23 Navara is right on the max allowable limit - I can safely fly by roadside cameras and cops with the cruise on 115 in a 100 zone without them batting an eyelid. Utes/4x4s etc tend to be the worst offenders too, although whether that is to accommodate the large proportion of buyers who put chunky offroad tyres on them or not is up for debate.

How was that fuel usage measured? What type of driving? 54km is also probably way too short of a drive to get any kind of accurate consumption measurement as individual variances (like coasting downhill or stopping at lights) will have too much of an effect on the total - need to go through at least half a tank (if not a full tank) to get a more indicative average.

Oh EMF can definitely be an issue for keyless entry, my parents' old SXV10 Camry would have central locking issues if you parked it underneath high-voltage power lines (so you had to open it with the key and then either wait half an hour or put the remote rob in to the glovebox socket to disable the immobiliser) but that would be several orders of magnitude greater than a simple 12V-5V converter.

What's the bet that the cars that wouldn't start because of all the stuff plugged in was due to voltage drain, not EMF... Forget a grain, Scotty Kilmer videos require a whole silo of salt....

Feb 2014 was the official launch, but the first ones were quite likely built in the end of 2013 and it could be possible that some were pre-sold or soft-launched prior to the official launch. https://pressroom.com.au/print_version.asp?kitID=344

No Camry engine will be identical (from memory the Celica 5S doesn't run the balance shafts but the Camry does), but as far as electrics go the 4th gen (SXV10) will be closer as it ran a distributor, whereas the later 5th Gen (SXV20) Camry had twin coil-packs

The earth point may not be on the steering wheel itself, but checking the combination switch pins would be the first port of call. Try and get a copy of the wiring diagram for your car to work out exactly where the earths will be in the circuit

So the Aurion _doesn't_ have a bigger engine then...

It's pretty typical for headlights to actually be earthed through the combination switch, which is why the wires would be going back in to the cabin

Carsales has 6 Aristos up currently, all S160 series and all 2JZGTEs, ranging from $18k to $29k. Considering a non-turbo Lexus GS300 of the same year was $100k new with similar amounts of features, they're still reasonable value... Also, why do you have two accounts?

Are you you're talking about an S140 Aristo (the first generation) or the second generation S160 (which was sold here in non-turbo spec as the Lexus GS300)? Either way, being an import it'll most likely be the twin-turbo 2JZGTE model (especially the S160, as the N/A one wouldn't be eligible) which would obviously justify some of the premium (also the used car market is stupid at the moment, almost everything is massively overpriced due to COVID and the semiconductor shortage so what was ~$10k two years ago is now $15-20k).

5/7 topic, much information, very detail, will read again. Seriously, you need to work on your posting skills.

No strut brace from factory, front- and rear-sway bars however but there don't seem to be many (if any) aftermarket upgrades for them. Remember too that these do not have IRS so there is little benefit from a rear sway bar upgrade. Also, be careful looking at coilovers as you need ones that are designed specifically for the torsion-beam rear end as some overseas models (in particular Japan and the US, where the vast majority of coilover designs will be for) and the ZWE186 hybrid have IRS which is completely different.

The 'R' just means right-hand drive. See the Members Ride link in my signature for photos, I don't have a video . From memory he bought it from Garage 88 in Sydney but no idea if they can still get them. To be honest, it's not worth what the probable retail value is brand new compared to just going to an exhaust shop and getting a Lukey or Magnaflow installed (and its main value apart from the badge is that it bolts on to a stock standard system). I got it second-hand (obviously) so much more cost-effective. What you're seeing is the changeover from the 11th generation Corolla (ZRE182 hassis code, 2ZR-FE engine) to the 12th generation (MZEA12 chassis code, M20A-FKS engine), which happened mid-late 2018. Completely different engine, completely different chassis, nothing will swap over.

It doesn't fit _in_ the stock airbox, it replaces it completely. And it looks like this (not my car, just found it on Google)

The TRD axle-back exhaust formerly owned by Rattle Rattleson now lives on my wife's 2018 ZRE182 Ascent Sport hatch. It bolts on 100% no problems, however the tip does sit a little lower than the stock tip so it looks a little out of place. The sound improvement is more a quality vs quantity thing, it is barely louder than stock at idle and around town especially when cold but is more noticeable up top or if the exhaust has gotten nice and hot after a long spirited drive. I would assume that any exhaust for the American 11th-gen Corolla would not fit, for two reasons 1) The sedan (as are Australia-market sedans) are technically a different chassis to the hatch - E170 vs E180. The pipe routing and muffler design is also different between E170 and E180, with the Aus-spec E180 having a cigar-shaped tubular rear muffler and the E170 (US and Aus) sedan having a conventional oval muffler. 2) Exhausts for the US-spec hatch (Scion/Corolla iM) are completely different as they ran an IRS setup compared to the Aus-spec torsion beam, so the pipe routing is completely different US-spec sedan exhausts may fit Aus-spec sedans, but not the hatch.

Are you sure there isn't one too many zeros there? A million k in 5 years (because no-one drove anywhere last year) is 200,000k a year, 10 times what the average person probably does. And if it is true, no offence but no-one in their right mind would buy a million-k car with no service history (especially not a late-model one).