Hiro

Been common on the Prius for a few years now, alloy is lighter than steel and then the hubcap on top for aero Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Body-wise there's not too much out there that I would call "sleek" apart from changing the front bumper/grille/lights to a JDM variant such as the FXGT or BZ Touring - be warned that if you can't source a bumper in the country then you're probably looking at least $500 to get one imported in from Japan or NZ (I got mine long before the recent upturn in demand for them, along with a lot of my other goodies). Lowering it will also help if you haven't already, don't go stupid-low however (really only achievable with coilovers, and cheap coilovers are crap) but a good set of Low or Super Low springs will compliment a set of 15" or 16" wheels nicely. Rather than removing the door mouldings (haven't done it myself but I believe they are just glued on, can't recall seeing any clips behind the door card but don't take my word for it) maybe look at colour-matching them to the body colour, and blacking out the window frames (unless you already have a CSX or RV) helps a lot in the style stakes.

My experience is yes, all screw-type Toyota oil filler caps are the same size (there may be one or two exceptions out there, but for instance TRD only ever listed 2 different oil filler caps - one screw, one bayonet, and then a third unique one for the 86 since it's a Subie engine)

'95 Celica ZR will be a 5SFE which means MAP, not MAF. The intake air-temp sensor normally plugs in to the air filter housing but the location isn't _super_ critical as long as it is still connected (hell, I've had cars run with the sensor just dangling in the engine bay reading hot air).

With a few exceptions there are basically only two different Toyota oil filler caps - screw or bayonet

For me, having the MAF still in the system will allow for me to revert back to the factory ECU if necessary (whether it'll run ok with a likely too-big intake and knobbly cams is a different story), but I would prefer a clean-looking intake (plus not have to worry about sensor fouling or flow irregularities screwing with the reading)

I'm still in two minds about running the on-board MAP sensor on the E440D, sure it fixes a big issue with the intake but then you have to worry about running a vacuum line all the way in to the cabin (and in my mind the longer a vacuum line is, the less accurate it is)

Early gen Celica prices have been on the rise for years, a rusted-out barn-find shell missing body panels would still fetch a few grand, a genuine complete flat-light in roadworthy condition could easily be close to $10k especially of it had a 2TG or some other desirable parts. Honestly, price-guides like Carsales/Redbook are worthless when cars start to become collectors items, find an enthusiasts group like Toymods or Garage Celica and you'll get a much better idea as to what it is worth currently. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

The unfortunate reality is that too many people are unwilling to take the leap (or unable to take the risk) in buying an alternative fuel vehicle, precisely because of those 3 factors. Societal inertia means that even if people are conscious of things like climate change or the limited lifespan of fossil fuels, they are reticent to make changes because they feel that their input is ineffective or irrelevant, or just plain lazy (it's someone else's/tomorrow's problem). The problem is that we need people making the leap in order to reduce price (through greater demand and mainstream adoption) and drive development and research which improves range and charging times (because why would most companies put the effort in to doing all that work if no-one would bother to buy it). Distributed/community manufacturing is a hallmark of a lot of sci-fi (usually through some form of matter replication, which is a little far off at this stage) but I definitely think that for 99% of users this could be a valid future method of production. There are already niche companies like Local Motors (the guys who make the Rally Fighter, that cool Cayman/P51-like offroader from Transformers and FnF) who run their business around the idea of crowd-sourcing design input as well as 3D-printing and microfactory production, which is an iterative step towards point-of-sale manufacturing. Imagine walking in to a dealer and seeing your car being 3D-printed behind a big glass wall in reception, how cool would that be? The irony of all of this is that through doing so we would essentially be "devolving" back to the cottage industry days (then again, sometimes the old ways are better)... Oh and if you are interested in that kind of Sci-Fi, I highly recommend the books Snow Crash and The Diamond Age by Neal Stephenson (and you'll also see where my avatar name comes from). I think most of the big manufacturers are well on-board with all of this, long gone are the days of "Big Oil" conspiracies. Look at how many Euro manufacturers are committing to a near-complete (or complete) electric portfolio in less than 10-15 years. The key is getting the resource companies (Chevron, Rio Tinto etc) to pivot from fossil fuels in to other areas (which they are already doing BTW)

What's worse is when they use the rattle-gun AND don't tighten them up in a star pattern...... Whilst not everyone will carry a torque wrench around with them (nor is it an "essential" tool for most processes), changing a tyre by the side of the road should always be seen as a temporary/emergency fix and the nuts checked properly when you return home (or take it to a garage to get the flat fixed/replaced). Lots of specs in workshop manuals can be ignored, or treated as "good enough", but there are listed torque specs for EVERY bolt/nut on the car, and often for a very good reason.

Why go to the effort of swapping internals? Same engine/series, so the gearbox as a whole will most likely swap over entirely (or maybe just by swapping a few mounts)

Tried Amayama?

Which model? '85 was a changeover year from the AE71 (RWD) to the AE82 (FWD) and they are _vastly_ different from each other. In saying that though, auto-to-manual swaps of that vintage are pretty straight-forward due to the lack of EFI, you basically need the appropriate mounts/crossmember, pedal box (and maybe a hole or two drilled in the firewall), clutch master/slave and lines (or cable, depending on the model) as well as the transmission and driveshafts. If you have two cars side-by-side 90% of the work is simply unbolting stuff from one and bolting it in to the other (RWD being much easier to swap the transmission on)

Sometimes but not always the case, I'd be more worried about wear if it was a highway patrol car as they would have seen much more in the way of pursuits etc. GD cars that rarely get thrashed but idle for long periods would be like taxis, they can rack up very high ks because they go through fewer cold-startup cycles.

Other way to remove studs is to thread two nuts on there and then try and unscrew the inner nut, gets more purchase than a pair of vice grips and less likely to strip the thread (although you need to have enough thread sticking out for it to work)

Most C-series transmissions will mount up with the appropriate brackets. I actually have a Celica C60 sitting in my AE102 as we speak using the factory C52 brackets (just one additional stay on the top gearbox mount that doesn't fit, due to the selector on the Celica 'box being on the top/front rather than the back). The issue will be the bellhousing pattern, as the later C-series boxes come behind ZZ-series engines which have a different bolt pattern to the A-series engine (also, if you're indeed looking at a C66M then they are a horrid sequential-manual setup which would be a nightmare to transplant). Actually come to think of it, I think the MR2s only came out with the C56M or the C66M in Australia, so I don't even know where you'd be getting a C66M from, and they're certainly not worth importing from overseas compared to a normal C160. The best factory ratios would be the C161 or C162 but they only came out in Europe in the AE111 G6 which had the 4AFE (and thus needed the taller ratio to make up for the lower redline compared to the blacktop/C160)

You don't need to press the bushes to measure the size of the eyelets (it doesn't need to be mm perfect, it's pretty obvious once you see them if they are the same size or one large and one small), just pull the cotter pin out and remove the washer

I don't believe the hybrids use the new Direct Shift CVTs (in fact, Toyota's hybrid CVTs are actually more of a conventional auto that balances the input between the ICE and the electric motor to give the sense of a CVT)

Just take off your air intake and have a look at which bushings you currently have on the end of the shifter cables.

Spacia (same chassis as the Liteace/Townace, just the passenger version) and quite possibly the YR20 Tarago would be worth checking out for replacements. The Tarago is probably the most common out of them but we're still talking about a 20-30yo car so be prepared to go wrecker-diving (and don't expect many places to stock new parts)

There are significant differences in head design between the two generations, so wouldn't be out of the ordinary for it to be a physically different size Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

There could be variations between a Gen1 4AFE (AE92) and the Gen2 (AE101) which might account for different dimensions/part numbers in catalogues.

Go by the generation, not the year. That way you are more likely to avoid issues where one market got a generation a year earlier or later than another (and also remember that the US uses Model Year, which is usually a year later than Build Date, ie what an American would call an '03 car would have gone on sale in the middle of '02)

HEICs are what iPhones spit out (I think after iOS11 or something) if you don't specifically go in to the camera app and set it to Most Compatible (JPEG, H.264) instead of High Efficiency (HEIC/HEVC etc). I had the same problem with my company-issued work phone, sneaky bastards...

Were both oil level checks done on a cold engine (ie letting all the oil drain back in to the sump)? Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk