Hiro

Because of course you can prove that they intentionally set about to rip you off, and are now currently sitting in a dark room rubbing their hands together with a big pile of cash in front of them..... Trent is right, these sorts of things _can_ just be honest mistakes - think about how many sets of hands and mouths that the communication will pass through in order for that car to get serviced. Typical service procedure (note I don't work for a dealer, just common sense) 1) You drop car off at service desk, tell desk clerk etc "I want it washed, this checked, that checked, oh and can you rotate the tyres please 2) Desk clerk will create a file/whatever for your service records 3) Service manager will take file, look at work required, and assign workshop time and personnel to complete it 4) Car is left at dealership for the day. Over the course of the day, it will probably be moved around several times, by several different mechanics or apprentices 5) At any particular stage, an apprentice or mechanic will be given the keys to the car and told to "go do this" or "this needs fixing", or "customer complained about such and such, check it out and see if anything is wrong" 6) Work will be carried out according to above instructions 7) Once each block of work is done, car will be returned to pool or to suitable waiting place for future work 8) After work has been done, mechanics will check off on what was done and/or what is needed, and report to service manager 9) Service manager will record in service records what was done 10) Service manager will inform you of further work required, or total costs of what has been done 11) You come and pick up the car, pay the costs, and receive the completed service record Another thing to remember is dealerships will service literally dozens of cars every day. When you work on that many cars, and are having a bad day, it can be very easy to overlook a couple of small items (rotating tyres isn't exactly ground-breaking stuff, something you can quite easily do at home with a jack and 30 minutes spare time, and neither is it a critical part of the safety of the car) - example scenario 1) Service manager gets handed back an incomplete service record by a mechanic - "xxxxx, you forgot to fill in here if you rotated the tyres on ABC123, did you do it?" "Which one was that, the white Kluger over there?" "Yes, that's the one" "Yeah we did that just before lunch, forgot to fill in the paperwork because the lunch-truck was here, sorry boss". Now, all it takes is one mistake to identify the wrong vehicle (and it's a dealership, so chances are there will be another car that looks similar to yours in the yard at the same time), and you can have the situation you are now in. A similar small mistake could be made on just about ALL of the steps I posted above, and the outcome could be the same. Are you willing to assume that it was a deliberate action when it is much more likely to be a simple honest mistake? Personally, having been on the end of both excellent service (including gratis work), and some poor work, from the _same_ dealership that we have used for 15 years, then I am more than willing to cut the dealership some slack and to follow things further rather than immediately tarring them with the same brush as you would a bank-robber and forever commit them to the special hell reserved for child-molesters and used-car salesmen. In short: Don't blame the dealership unless you know the full story Don't jump to conclusions, _everyone_ is capable of making honest mistakes (even you) And if how things were dealt bothers you, don't just let them slide - follow them up, there are procedures for this, but don't come out all guns blazing unless you are absolutely convinced, otherwise you might dig yourself in a very deep hole very quickly.

^This. Try and get them without the stickers though, as they look silly saying "RAVS Engineering" and "VORK Racing" I've had BSA Au229s (gunmetal with polished lip) on the AE102 for 4-ish years, never had a problem with them (and they're not overly heavy either)

For some reason, I just imagined that the scenario was going to end in a Judge Judy-style small claims court, with you on one side an a construction worker on the other...

Why do you need a bigger/better filter? What is wrong with the OEM one?

Track-finished-days-before-race-due-to-start Grand Prix Team: Red Bull Drivers: Webber, Alonso Pole: Alonso Fastest: Vettel

That recommendation would be partly based around still using the stock engine management/injectors etc. Obviously there would be possible issues with fuel tank/pump/lines etc too though.

The doors usually have a plastic sheet of some kind inside them, handy reminder that everything "outside" of that sheet will most likely get wet when it rains, so try and avoid running wires there or cutting holes in the sheet (or ungluing the sheet itself).

Not sure which I prefer yet, will need to give it a bit of time to settle in (plus see how it looks at work too), but one thing that immediately stands out is that even at 1680x1050 the page can still scroll slightly to the side, even on the main forum page (which shouldn't have any overly large pictures etc like a post might)

Will be there as usual.

Even genuine top-of-the-shelf wheels can warp and buckle if you drive them on too-rough roads or hit pot-holes, the Made In Italy Momo Twins that are on the ST162 have accrued 3 separate flat-spots since we got them (albeit secondhand), and word around the block is that Momo wheels (a fairly well known and quality brand if you spend the money, their cheap stuff is a bit meh though) are very soft despite being good quality.

I don't actually use anything to hold mine down, the box sits firmly on the carpet and doesn't move even in decently earnest cornering, and the amp is wedged between the box and the back seats. Then again, I do have a ported twin 12" box, so it has a lot of weight and a lot of surface area to increase friction, and if I'm going to do really serious chucking into corners then I'll probably take the box out anyway to help with weight.

Fans being on when cold and turning off when hot doesn't sound right at all, either the switch is wired in incorrectly or is busted itself.

I think this topic is a little mis-guided. Not all Japanese wheels are high-quality lightweight racing rims, and not all non-Japanese ones are lead slugs.

Umm, you just post the URL of the picture on photobucket inside IMG tags and it's done? Or are you after video?

what ? do u think the size of the heat shielded pod would restrict flow? No, it's red. Red ones go faster.

The drain tubes run down the A and C pillars, that is the path that the water would take, and the reason why the floor gets wet but not necessarily the roof.

Get the red one, it goes faster?

Got Sunroof? It's a known problem with the Aurions that the drains for the sunroof clog/fall off, causing water to leak into the cab.

Why do you need a dodgy roadworthy? Are you buying an unregistered car or simply transferring from one name to another? And surely a "mint condition" car would easily pass even a non-dodgy roadworthy test.

Unless of course you go too small or too large, and it either becomes a restriction or a resistance (too small and you'll choke the intake, too large/thick and you might get too much of a pressure drop through the filter). You'd have to go to extremes for that though.

The black plastic lip? Good luck, they cop a beating on just about any driveway or speedhump, very rare to find second-hand in good condition. Never seen any aftermarket ones, as for brand new hit up Amayama, they might be able to get a new one for you from Toyota in Japan (if they still make them/keep the moulds)

yeah it comes out from the console... did you just have to disconnect from the wiring and just tightened it? old pensioner really did it good from smoking.. damn Assuming it is the same/similar to the AE102, the cigarette lighter is held in the console by a locking collar at the rear - by twisting the lighter/socket over the years the collar slowly works loose and the whole socket can slide in and out and twist around, which can cause a short and blow the fuse. Pull the centre console trim out and make sure that the wiring loom is connected correctly, the socket is aligned properly and the collar fully tightened, and that should solve most of the problems (assuming it was the problem in the first place).

Check that the cigarette lighter socket itself is nice and tight too - I blew the fuse in mine at the national meet because it had slowly worked loose over months and years of twisting from phone chargers etc (which had caused the locking ring to come off).

Bought a LHS Holden LG Nova front indicator from the friendly local Toymods member who works at my friendly local Jap wreckers (they only had left ones) Did a test fit of said indicator on my JDM FXGT front bar (because ADM Corolla ones don't fit) Found it a perfect fit Found a RHS genuine OEM one on eBay Bid on it Won it Paid for it Received notice of shipping All this between the hours of 4:00 and 5:00 on a Friday afternoon. Awesome way to end the week

Need a big points haul, so putting all my eggs in one basket: Japanese-Grand-Prix-at-Honda's-Test-Track-which-should-have-been-at-Fuju-but-Toyota-couldn't-handle-the-pressure-and-pulled-out-of-Formula-One-yet-Honda-pulled-out-as-well-and-they-still-race-at-Suzuka. Team: Red Bull Drivers: Vettel, Webber Pole: Webber Fastest: Kubica Odds that Webber will stuff the start up again: 68%