Hiro

Because the TV isn't quoting RRP price, it is quoting driveaway price (which all dealers must now do), which includes stamp duty, dealer delivery fee (the "$2000 car wash") etc etc.

It should only be used as a short term solution though - as soon as you can get the flat etc fixed then get it back on. The biggest issue when using odd pairings of wheels is if they are used on a driven axle, in which case they will be permanently loading up the differential which can affect its life significantly.

They look pretty decent stock, better than the Cube and a mile better than the fugly Kia Soul. Kitted with the right accessories they'd make a great town cruising car, or keep it stocko and use it as a family get-around

well i really push it flat foot from a rolling 5km it changes gears just under 60...but i noticed that some times its taken till 65-70km/h to get into the 2nd gear. It just got me thinking about it when my car struggled to merger on a freeway following a friend in their camry to get into the city. I had the accellorator flat to the floor and it was just driving like a normal cruise....it had no guts left in the little engine which made me feel worried. These cars dont have much kw's but alot of torque which it didnt prove at day. Definitely check the basics first - oil + filter, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, timing etc. If it's not there, then I'd be taking it to a mechanic, tranny services by the home enthusiast are really limited to changing the fluid and flushing the filter and it sounds like it'd need more than that (then again, I'm by no way an auto transmission expert, I have never owned one and avoid driving them as much as possible)

Won't be facing forwards if it's the same side as the exhaust manifold, ZZ engines have the intake at the front and the exhaust at the rear...

Has it been serviced regularly? Recently? I'd be willing to bet it's either fuel/spark related (old plugs or injectors needing a clean) or the transmission is in dire need of a service/overhaul. When you say "old and high ks", remember it is a Corolla - they will run until the end of time if you look after them. My '97 AE102 is coming up on 340,000km and it still has stock clutch and brake rotors, and the head has _never_ been removed, so all internals are still exactly the same as when they came from the factory, and it still runs as well as the day I started driving it. Things like suspension bushes etc do tend to wear out, and the 7A is renowned for oil consumption as it gets old (either valve stem seals or oil control rings), but thats not enough to kill the car by a long shot.

Pod filters are pretty much universal - you just get the one with the right pipe size to fit into your system. It's the factory-replacement panel filters that are model-specific (although you will get some overlap/double-ups with other models, by pure luck)

Just for the record, all unleaded petrol sold in Australia can (and does) contain a maximum of 2% ethanol. If anything, ethanol content correlates with an *increase* in RON rating, rather than a reduction. Mixing ethanol into petrol does increase the RON, but it also decreases the energy density (which is the reason why you use more of it). Put two and two together, and you find that you'll tend spend about the same amount on normal 95 premium (which will last longer but costs more) than you would on 95 E10 (costs less but doesn't last as long).

You are probably better off cruising around at 60 in 4th... lower rpm does not always equal better fuel economy. Really how does that work? Engines run more efficiently at certain revs and throttle inputs. If you labour the engine too much (like trying to cruise at low speed in too high a gear) you'll pull the engine out of it's most efficient operating band, and coupled with the large throttle opening you'll need to keep it going you'll end up possibly using more fuel.

The main raw sound you get from an engine is the compression and expansion of the gas inside the combustion chamber, not the combustion itself (note that an air-compressor sounds like an engine even though there is no fuel or combustion involved). What you end up hearing though is this sound muted, muffled, filtered and modified by the exhaust system. Note that the raw sound itself will vary from car to car based on things like compression ratio, valve patterns, cam profiles, firing order, displacement, RPM etc etc.

Partly true, even the best filter will still let stuff in and the injectors will slowly clog up over time, but injector cleaner isn't something you should need to run every 6 months or so, especially if it doesn't feel like it is needed.

Engine-bay is engine-bay Except for extensive earth kit Current insurance policy.

Took it to work today (probably the only time in the next 6 months that I'll be allowed to :P), dropped by the local park on the way home and took a few more photos - clouds had unfortunately come over so once again all the detail of the wheels is lost, but still... Looks like it has two black holes for wheels... Mid-life taillights are the best of the bunch Can see some of the phat-ness of the rear tyres there Plates are like that because previous owner's mate had a HQ with a worked 202, so he did what any self-respecting Toyota owner would do Neat boot install. Amp is tucked up underneath parcel shelf where stock sub would sit, completely out of site Interior is interior It's a headunit No wait, it's a DVD player! Custom door pods...well entire bottom section of door-trim is custom actually...

Introducing Lexi (yeah I know, original, but I didn't choose it), Cara's first turbo car, and also her first car which is noticeably faster and better than mine :P. Looks like I'll have to tread the family car route in a few years then, maybe something like a Chaser for the practicality as well as the speed, can't let her out-do me can I? Anyway, I digress....... Specs: AS OF 09/08/13 1995 JZZ30 Toyota Soarer GT-T (thought it was a GT-TL, but the build plate says otherwise) Engine-related 1JZ-GTE twin-turbo APEXi Power FC + hand-controller Front-mount Hybrid dual-core intercooler K&N pod BFI in sealed box, custom alloy intake pipe Lews split dump pipes with separate wastegate pipes, split twin 2 1/2" stainless mandrel exhaust with two twin-tip Lukey mufflers Suspension/driveline R154 5-speed factory manual HKS HipermaxII adjustable coilovers Polished alloy strut-brace KAAZ 2-way mechanical LSD DBA 4000 Clubspec slotted rotors front, DBA 3000 slotted rotors rear EBC Redstuff brake pads f+r TRD leather gear knob Exterior 18x8" Speedy Cheetah wheels 235/40 Kumho tyres - KU39 front, KU36 rear Interior Tan interior, velour Electric seats Sunroof Flip-out cupholder Scroll dash, blue filtered Refurbished climate control screen w/ blue button lights ICE Kenwood DNX5360 2DIN DVD/GPS receiver Audison Bit One processor JL Audio 2.1 amp Front Morel splits in custom door trims Rear Morel speakers 12" Treo Sub in a moulded box in the boot Entire cabin + boot Dynamat'ed except for roof Mongoose alarm/immobiliser Waiting to be installed: HKS adjustable cam gears Future list of mods/fixes: Paint Re-leather steering wheel New bushes Paint cam covers New cams (a while off now) Seeing as how it's not parked out the front right now (I don't drive it, unfortunately), you'll all have to wait for the full/detailed list of features as well as photos, these are the only ones we grabbed from the Carsales ad

HOLY FARK!!! i only got like 40,000kms or something like that... :( The weight of the car must play a big part in rotor wear, because my 1050kg 336,000km 1997 AE102 is still on original rotors (and was on original pads until 280,000km):P They've been machined once because of slight warpage, but still ....

The second link actually gives a fairly negative/indifferent review, in the sense that they seem to offer no benefit whatsoever but appear to be decent plugs by themselves.

Blow-by does not indicate a stuffed or clogged PCV valve, the PCV valve's job is to vent blow-by gases into the intake when there is manifold vacuum (ie part or off throttle). A clogged PCV valve would present as blow-by gases being forced into the air intake upstream of the throttle (ie you might find oil pooling in your intake and a black air filter) or blowing the dipstick out of the tube (the PCV valve isn't allowing the crankcase to vent, thus the pressure builds up and pops the dipstick out). Blowby is caused by stuffed piston rings, a whole different kettle of fish entirely (bear in mind that all cars suffer some form of blow-by even when completely 100%).

TOCAU doesn't have a large (or small, for that matter really) population of classic Celica owners, so you're unlikely to find anything pop up here, especially on demand or short notice. Best place to look would be Toymods, classic Celica owners there are a dime a dozen and will be much better suited to assisting you.

Early pov-spec SV21s (and JK Apollos) were carby 3SFCs with EFI on the higher-spec models, it wasn't until mid-life (and the Apollo went to JL code) that the whole range went EFI (much like the AE92s). But yes, the 4AFC is a major downgrade from the 3S, plus it won't physically bolt to the gearbox (S-series engines use a different bellhousing pattern to A-series engines). yeah thats the model car in question :D thanks hiro, would you have any idea of other options/engines/ or whichever to be of help to me? If it's just a daily, then I see no reason to put anything other than another 3SFC in, or get a wrecked EFI model and swap the engine and all electrics/fuel-related stuff over - neither are particularly uncommon nor expensive. Barring that, if you want something with oomph then your best bet is a 3SGE or GTE, but you're getting into conversion territory there which means $$$$. Best standard engine you'd get would be the V6 model but they're not that common.

Early pov-spec SV21s (and JK Apollos) were carby 3SFCs with EFI on the higher-spec models, it wasn't until mid-life (and the Apollo went to JL code) that the whole range went EFI (much like the AE92s). But yes, the 4AFC is a major downgrade from the 3S, plus it won't physically bolt to the gearbox (S-series engines use a different bellhousing pattern to A-series engines).

The Lotus philosophy has never been about the engine anyway. The base Elise still uses the 1ZZFE, and previous versions used the Rover K-series, itself nothing special. Even with their light weight they've never been flash in a straight line (except for the twin-turbo V8 Esprit), it's about the chassis and the handling - the engine simply provides the means for getting between the corners, you could use just about any light-weight reliable engine (remember the track-special roadster a few years ago with the 2AZ Camry engine?) and still get the same results.

Are you talking about the Toyota Camry (XV20)? Isn't that the 4th gen Camry as the 5th gen wasn't out until 2001/ Depends if you count the Celica Camry or not :P Besides, the XV20s had the 1MZ and 140kw (not 120-130, even the widebody had 136kw from the 3VZ)

VVTi has always been "constantly adjusting", it was only the VVT (note no 'i') in the silvertop and blacktop 20V 4AGEs that was on/off. Valvematic offers both infinitely variable valve timing as well as lift, but it isn't the demon that VVTL-i was in the 2ZZGE. If you look at the numbers, the 2ZR-FAE puts out about 10% more power, which for the cost of getting a head and the associated electronics to run it (since they haven't been released here yet) you'd be better off just doing conventional mods to get the same power increase for less money.