Milgram

Have a look at this video on You Tube: I'd get your mechanic to perhaps take a look at the Idle Air Control valve and throttle body. I've read about this issue in the past and it seems to be related to these components.

Try cleaning the glass from the inside, this may help the problem. Dirty glass is supposedly more prone to fogging up. I find putting the heater on with the air outlet set to the windscreen is usually insufficient, particularly when it is humid and/or raining. Therefore I just constantly run the air conditioning with the temperature on cool or heat depending on the outside temperature. Running the air conditioning demists the windscreen very quickly.

The phasing out of ULP 91 in NSW is being pushed by the NSW State Government. The Government there is trying to encourage increased use of biofuels. The cost to fill E10 may be cheaper than regular ULP and PULP, but I have read in some cases it can increase fuel consumption by up to 10 per cent. I had someone try and tell me that in his car, he gets better mileage on E10, but the statistics say otherwise. I read a letter in "Ask Smithy" last weekend regarding E10 and his response was to stick with PULP until more information is available regarding the long term effects of E10 on engines and fuel systems. Based on Melbourne prices this weekend, here is a comparison of fill costs for 40 litres: E10: $1.229 x 40L = $49.16 ULP 91: $1.259 x 40L = $50.36 ULP 95: $1.349 x 40L = $53.96 ULP 98: $1.399 x 40L = $55.96 As said, for peace of mind, just pay the extra $4.80 for PULP.

I believe they are permitted to blend up to 10 per cent, as per Australian Fuel Standards laws. You might find that E10 does not always contain 10% ethanol, the oil refineries may alter the blend depending on the time of year. However, the amount of ethanol in E10 must not exceed 10 per cent. If the blend is greater than 10%, it is law that the servo must declare so. Vehicles that can operate on ethanol blended petrol can usually handle up to 10 per cent anyway. If they cannot handle up to 10 per cent, owners should not use E10 (or any ethanol blended fuel) in those vehicles. United Petroleum sells a Premium 100 blend which contains up to five per cent ethanol. Shell previously sold a similar product called V-Power Racing but removed it from sale in late 2008. I did hear that a lot of non-performance vehicles do not run well on Premium 100.

The cigarette lighter takes a 1.2W wedge type globe, base is T and type is 5mm (T5?). Not sure for the heater control backlight, but I suspect the same type of globe. There appears to be two that light up the three dials along with individual bulbs for the A/C and rear demister buttons. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction with removing the heater control unit fascia. cheers.

Hi All, Last weekend I decided I'd have a go at replacing a couple of globes blown behind the instrument panel (cigarette lighter and one half of the heater controls). I managed to replace the cigarette lighter globe easily enough but got stuck on the heater controls. I removed the plastic fascia surround and unscrewed the heater control unit (four screws) but could not work out how to get the front of the HVAC unit off. I could feel some clips along the bottom of the unit (one of the three was broken to my surprise ). Any advice would be most appreciated as I do not wish to break anything (looks like previous owner already has!). Thank you!

The service stations like E10 because in places where they still sell it alongside ULP 91, it allows them to display a cheaper board price. Coles Express has introduced E10 into a limited number of sites in Melbourne and have replaced ULP 95 with E10 at many locations. They sell E10 for three cents per litre cheaper than regular ULP and with the shopper docket discount, it is a further four cents per litre cheaper (a total saving of seven cents per litre over regular ULP). Therefore, the price board reads something like this: Discount E10: 112.9 Unleaded E10: 116.9 Unleaded 91 : 119.9 Motorists get tricked into thinking one service station is selling petrol cheaper than another which only sells your standard 91, 95 and 98 because they might, in the Coles Express case, see 112.9 versus maybe 119.9 at BP. E10 is sold at all United branded sites in Melbourne, a large number of independents, selected Coles Express outlets and selected Caltex sites. 7 Eleven has started to sell E10 as well (supplied from Shell) but the roll out was delayed because of tight supply due to Shell's agreement with Coles.

Do you mean as in an automatic transmission oil cooler? I have a manual, but pretty sure I have seen a Denso supplied unit behind the grille on my other half's automatic Vienta. Workshop manuals are available online at the link below. However, they are written for the US. Gen 4 manuals

Hi Ozzcaddy, I have a 1999 MCV20R Touring V6 sedan, just ticked over to 201,000kms last night and she is still going strong. The only issues I have had are a leaking power steering pump, leaking power steering rack and a small oil seep from the rocker cover. My mechanic works on a lot of 20 series Camrys and has found these to be common issues, but in the scheme of things, they are relatively inexpensive to fix - I fixed all those issues for about $1000. Oil changes every 10,000km are important, some owners have a tendency to push it out to 15-20,000kms (a big no no) citing Toyota reliability, so just check service history to ensure all is in order. Have a look around for the Conquest wagon or if you budget stretches, the Vienta VXi wagon. Even if you pick up one with slightly higher kilometres than the CSi you are looking at, provided it has been well looked after, age should not wary it. The Conquest and VXi have additional luxury features, but more importantly have dual airbags and anti-lock brakes as standard. That might be something to consider given both features are a "standard fit" on modern cars today.

I had a leaking steering pump in my 1999 Camry replaced around the 155,000km mark. Toyota quoted me $800 to overhaul the pump, therefore I opted for an independent mechanic who fitted a reconditioned OEM pump for under $400. So far, two years and 50,000km later, there are no issues with the overhauled pump. I also had my steering rack replaced as one of the rubber boots was seeping slightly. A reconditioned rack along with all the labour and a wheel alignment cost me about $450.

I've heard alternator failure is a common problem on the Gen 5. I know of one person with a 2005 model Altise who recently had to replace the alternator at less than 100,000kms. Who is the supplier of the OEM alternator in the Gen 5?

That price seems a little steep. My mother had the alternator replaced in her Hyundai last year, all up for the alternator and installation it was $309. Annoyingly, the alternator was not installed properly and was loose, resulting in a trip to the mechanic. The alternator was installed by the RACV, I suspect they sell and fit generic alternators as opposed to genuine ones. Perhaps go to Toyota and buy the part from them and get a mobile mechanic to install.

I understand coolant expands and contracts based on vehicle temperature, but until recently it would consistantly read full when hot and sit at the halfway mark when cold, regardless of ambient temperature. I had a more detailed look with a torch around the rear of the engine and noticed some dots of red fluid on a bolt towards the bottom of the timing belt cover. I am now thinking perhaps the water pump might be the culprit. I will see what comes of Saturday's visit to the mechanic.

Hi, I am curious about coolant level and if there is any relation to cooler weather. Over the past month, I've noticed that the amount of coolant in the overflow reservoir when cold has dropped from about the halfway mark to just above low. Likewise, when hot, instead of sitting on the full mark, it is sitting about halfway between full and low. I have booked the car in at the mechanic on the weekend to have everything checked, I cannot see any traces of coolant on the ground. Therefore, I assume any drop is attributed to the weather (if possible) or an internal leak? I've checked the oil, it appears clean with no milky residue and there are no signs of burning coolant from the exhaust. Any thoughts?

I don't get my car serviced by Toyota, I go to an independent mechanic but generally do the power steering flush every two years along with the coolant and brake fluid (both of which are in the service book as 24 months). I also did the air conditioning service about two years ago because sometimes it would smell a little stale but since running the system almost constantly, the smell has not returned. I've never done the injector clean, so cannot comment.

My 1999 Camry has done this several times over the past 3.5 years of ownership. I tend to find it happens if the car is restarted within a couple of minutes of running, usually after jumping out of the car briefly to visit the ATM, refuel, etc. In the past few weeks, I've had it happen a more than often but generally I find switching the key to "on" for a few seconds before starting helps prevent it. My partner's Vienta of the same era does something similar, but it has never stalled. I recall a road test of a V6 Camry some years complained of the problem in the test car. I think it might just be something that the 1MZ-FE is prone to. Perhaps look at cleaning the throttle body.

Are the doors open or closed when you are trying to lock the car? I lock mine for safety when driving at night and have found that if I try to lock the car (using the rocker switch) with the key in the ignition and the door open, the locks flick back to open. I need to have the doors closed in order for them to lock. As for the rattle, without riding in the car, it is difficult to diagnose. Perhaps check for anything loose near the passenger seat. Rattles and squeaks are considered normal wear and tear and are something you have to expect on a nine year old car. My 1999 model has a few squeaks and rattles and whilst I have tried to various degrees of success to fix some, I have given up fretting about them. I know people with far newer vehicles than mine which squeak and rattle more.

Has the door been replaced in the past and if so, it could be an el cheapo non genuine door, which I understand don't measure up in fit and quality of genuine part. I don't believe the door panel has been replaced at anytime, it appears more that it is not sitting as tight against the actual door as it once did, namely around the tweeter. Is there a screw or pin that holds the door in around this region?

Hi All, I've noticed lately that the panel gap between the drivers door panel and dashboard is uneven on my 1999 Camry - its tight at the top and becomes increasingly wider. On certain road surfaces, the top of the panel rubs against the dash and rattles. Looking at other Gen 4's, it appears part of my door trim around the tweeter is not sitting as tight anymore which is creating the uneven gap. What is the best fix here?

My understanding from a reliable source is that TRD had its problems internally too in relation to the way the company was run by management and the attitude of Toyota Australia. Aside from quality issues, there was a lot of confusion over the direction of the brand and exactly where it sat in the market. Lets be honest, TRD was no threat to the likes of FPV or HSV and whilst it was marketed as "premium", it could never take on the likes of BMW-M and AMG.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the water pump is often driven by the timing belt and the difference in tension after the timing belt has been changed can sometimes cause the water pump to fail prematurely. Therefore, a new belt and a new pump ensures an "even playing field" so to speak. As pointed out, sometimes it is just best to spend a little bit extra for peace of mind. If you are on a tight budget, it is understandable you might choose to only do the belt, but you could end up with a larger headache if a problem arises.

When I did my timing belt, Toyota had a special on the belt kit and fitting of the new belt. All up, that component was $220 regardless of your vehicle (excluding grey imports). I also changed the water pump. Off the top of my head, the 150,000km service, timing belt and water pump replacement ended up costing me close to $1000 at a Toyota dealership. My other half recently had her timing belt and water pump replaced for about $700 by an independent mechanic. The cost difference is primarily due to labour as genuine parts were used.

You are unlikely to get much support from Toyota because your Tarago is functioning as designed. I am familiar with the Eastlink tunnels and have driven both new and old vehicles fitted with cruise control through them. As others have stated, OEM cruise control systems will not brake for you, they will just cut the throttle on downhill sections because they sense the speed rising. Those tunnels do have a steep descent and I find it is better to control the speed myself (i.e. not use cruise control) given there are speed cameras as you reach the bottom. I have spoken to Engineers in the past about cruise control and many recommend using it on flat sections of road only. The reasoning behind this is on uphill sections, the cruise control can make the engine work harder than necessary to keep it at the set speed (and subsequently use more fuel) and on downhill sections, it is better to control speed yourself incase the cruise becomes stuck on.

I replaced the stock Bilsteins on my 1999 Touring with Monroe GT-Gas shock absorbers and cannot fault them. The ride is quite firm and can be a little jittery over rough surfaces, but I like a firm ride with good suspension rebound particularly given I drive along a lot of roads with tram tracks where I feel a car that floats can be a bit of a handful as you hit the corrugations in the road. The Monroes are expensive (about $160 ea plus fitting) but one thing that won me over was the 3 year/60,000km warranty. I did not get the springs changed, they are still stock and do the job fine. The only thing I need to do is sort out the clunk coming from the rear suspension - I suspect its some worn bushings or strut mounts. Nothing the radio cannot hide though for the moment.

Are they still reliable? In terms of fit and finish and mechanical? Has the quality of these cars dropped in recent years from where they were to have achieved the said repuatation? I'd just like to know because i'm thinking of buying one for the first time. I need an absolutely unbiased opinion though. The reality is all cars today have a certain degree of cost reduction built into them and the majority of brands on the market today build reliable cars backed up by warranties. The number of features (particularly expensive safety features) that are fitted as standard today on cars adds a significant amount to the cost to produce a car and manufacturers are forced to look at "cheapening down" vehicles in order to produce vehicles and sell them to consumers at competitive prices. A Corolla today costs little more than one 10 years ago, yet you get much more car for your money but it could be argued that the fit and finish and quality of interior materials used today is not as good as 10 years ago. Some may not agree. I do not think Toyota's reliability has suffered too much, I think the competition has caught up to them which narrows the gap and the perception of reliability and quality that Toyota once held so dearly. All car companies build lemons from time to time (including Toyota), some more than others. You also have to factor in how good the customer service is at a company. In the US, it could be argued the Big Three (GM, Ford & Chrysler) suffered because of their customer service which ultimately let to their financial woes because they became out of touch with customer wants and needs. Toyota has slipped in this area going by reports in the US, which has possibly led to the sticking accelerator issue becoming as large as it has because customers were not getting results from Toyota and thus turned to authorities and the media to resolve the situation. As others have pointed out, the number of reported cases is minimal given the number of Toyotas on the road but nonetheless the correct thing to do is acknowledge the problem and fix it. Toyota was slow to do this (others have too) and it took instruction from the US Government for them to act on the problems which has resulted in a lot of bad press. I would feel confident buying a Toyota but to be honest, I would also take a look at what else is out there by means of looking at dealers, reading reviews from the media and owners and talking to new car owners. The only vehicles I am not comfortable recommending are European vehicles as they can be expensive to maintain and repair and quite often people find they are not too well suited to Australian conditions.