TommyM
-
Posts
246 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Tutorials
News & Articles
Videos
Everything posted by TommyM
-
I brought the part from my dealer, usually go for around $64, my mate did it for $50, so i can't complain. Another 10 years of life 😂😂 The moulded hose that connects to the bottle literally is more than the bottle ffs 😂😂 A maintained one that's tight can also be a real snotty engine lol, hardly underpowered. Running 98 makes a full aray of improvement lol. Bottle - $50 Plugs - $95 Leads - $180 My price, but they usually go around the $65+, $125+, $210+ Tell me about it, i'm f**king over it.
-
@campbeam @Tony Prodigy @ZZT86 On another positive note i've decided on the new speakers i'm having fitted once everything goes back to normal, i don't care so much for noise but it's the quality i want. So in accordance to the factory setup Front run components, rear coaxial & parcel shelf sub X2 Front: Focal 165 AS (6.5" components) 60w RMS X2 Rear: Focal 165 AC (6.5" coaxial) 60w RMS X1 Parcel Shelf: Focal P20F 8" Subwoofer 250w RMS Having used Focal previously i can not reccomend them enough, they're a brilliant speaker.
-
On a positive note, i've put almost 2300km since my last service, haven't had to drop a single ounce of oil in it, still a bees ***** over the full mark, with having 200ml over the "oil capacity" which is 4.8L. 200ml ain't gonna hurt anything so i get 5L jugs, or empty a 20L into a 5L container. So i gather you were right 😉 The PCV is working properly i've determined after some quick tests.
-
It was annoying me but it genuinely cracked so i had more reason to replace it 😂😂😂 I haven't even cleaned the engine bay fully, it's just an honest/clean engine bay. I plan on cleaning it up a bit though, but them factory markings on strut towers, supports, etc i wana try keep haha ! It's worth putting up also, anyone with that style part, do yourself a favour and just buy it from Toyota, the Avalon bottle should mount up for a Camry too with that style recovery system. So i take that would be the XV20 & XV30. Part No: 16470/03062 Although the original part number was Part No: 16470/0H040 Looking forward to fitting new leads/plugs, never fit iridiums when it clearly states double-tipped platinums only, the ignition system is designed around a double tip setup, NOT a single tip. Toyota: 90919/01194 (Denso PK20TR11) Leads: 19037/20011 (I'm suprised they're still the same Yazaki Japanese part as my original leads, clearly they didn't change supplier which is well worth the extra $30 over non OEM leads, included all new brackets, protective sheets, etc. Something you won't find on aftermarket 😂 How are you lot coping with COVID-19 ? Hopefully better than Victoria, can't even get my windows done till lockdown f**ks off
-
My first moderate repair LOL They all split on the top, but it's something you can't not use OEM Toyota parts for Reason: The mount has the camry style setup that all have them two prongs that always snap, it had to be Avalon specific with the triangle type reinforced mount with a metal washer molded in 😂😂😂
-
I'm glad to hear you're well considering everything going on at the moment. And to my suprise my usual dealer who has a former tech/mechanic as manager for servicing, wasn't in, rang a few others, none of which could help with my question 😂😂 I'll just find out from my 3rd party mechanic who'll tell me straight, but hopefully it is haha ! I swear most service people lack the knowledge they should have, but that's probably just me having high standards
-
I'm glad to hear i'm not the only one going nuts lol ! Yeah this is true, welcome to melbourne, i'm keeping a low profile where i can, obviously i worry about fam in regional victoria, but i'll be able to see them soon enough. But i drive the longest possible way at the moment to ensure i know everything gets up to operating temp, order parts that are outside my area due to no stock being around, all valid points vic pol can't do anything about because i have every legal right to pick up any order i have
-
HAHAHA Thanks, i've just been dealing with a few "family issues" needless to say i've been occupied. How are you lot holding up ?
-
I'll have to double check with my dealership i 100% trust, they know me & look after my every need, labor rate is close to my 3rd party mechanic either way. It's hard to know for certain considering they say Avalon 05+ But that was the end of production, i know there's a few ways of knowing for sure but hey. I'll find out when i can see them next, they'll be able to confirm if the Mark 3's were OBD2 compliant pre mandatory, so many cars earlier were OBD2 compliant, i wanted to invest in a BlueDriver scan tool which i've used many times (not mine obviously), and strongly recommend having one over a $5000 scan tool for basic checking up lol I'll be sticking with Penrite ATF Full Syn non LV myself, but Mobil 1 0w40 engine oil, 1750km since my last service, positive results i haven't had to add a drop of oil. So i'll be sticking with it i think. Maybe i might try the LV, but either way the price is negligible, i'll be dropping it every 40k regardless. I don't wana buy a tool & not be able to use it naturally 🙂 After reading it, LV isn't backwards compatible with older type fluid specs. I'll keep it with what's in it at the moment. Did a power steering rack full flush the other day, fluid wasn't filthy but definitely due for a change
-
Need advice on something, i'm actually trying to figure out if my Avalon is OBD2 or not, because i'm pretty sure around that 04' - 05' era the Avalon's went full OBD2 prior to it being mandatory in 06' for all petrol cars sold in Australia. Could anyone shed some light on the matter ? Much appreciated 😁
-
Hahaha BMW or Holden fourms, add Audi in there too. "Oh i'm so superior to you in my Audi badged sibling to a VW Golf with a Golf 4cyl" 🤣🤣🤣 Nah i'd rather not get dementia from reading half of the bull**** BMW ****ers & Mercedes peasants pretend to be (i've worked for Merc in my past life, fake as **** half of them were) Toyota & Lexus don't forget 😉 I thought it was a mineral based fluid, yeah they want the auto to break so you buy a new car lol, we used the A541E for quite some time, but later US models switched over to the U something series 4sp. Everyone knows (atleast those that aren't dickheads) knows atf IS NOT lifetime fluid, you change it every 50k, etc On my Avalon it's every 45k but i'll do it every 40k Look the fluid in it was still red, but "service due" red, if that makes sense ?. Atleast it's learnt my driving style 🤣 Seeing as the A541E is an "adaptive learning" auto.
-
Not going to lie though, since i drained & flushed the trans twice & switched it to full synthetic atf, not Toyota WS which is mineral based (i believe), massive improvement in shift quality and overall performance (upshift, downshift, kickdown, etc).
-
Nah i'm not going to bite your head off don't stress mate 🤣 Yeah new set of Denso plugs & NGK leads (which are next best to OEM), but Toyota OEM ones for the 1MZ-FE aren't made in Japan anymore, so i know the NGK ones are actually made here, some of their products are local. Hence why i'm going with them. Also OEM are well over $200, NGK's are about $115 for 3 leads lol. But the front bank is COP but rear bank is shared (hence the 3 separate leads), think they run a waste spark system off memory. Double platinums FTW, i'm not a fan of Iridium's Marketing bull****. I've done everything but the 2 fuel filters which are a prick to do lol. I hope your sister is well !
-
I can't wait for lockdown to be over, because i'm taking the Avalon out for a long ***** drive to see some of my closest mates. But i do wana chuck new leads on & a set of plugs. Because i can, dunno when plugs were done last, etc But everything else is clean, changed, etc
-
Well mates & i just call it the long drop, gods disposal service, etc I know the term crappa now i know what you're on about 🤣
-
But in saying that i'll be voluntarily standing down & finding something else until everything settles
-
The **** is a crappa 🤣🤣 To my understanding basically the ****est of crap car around (VN Commo) 🤣 It's all good man, dw about it. Now i know you're just taking the *****. Hey you can drive 20km within that 5km radius, i have some 80k roads in that radius i can blow cobwebs out, or do it up someones street 😉 (if you really needed to)
-
I had just got home from work, so i was pretty done with the day 🤣 Seeing that i was like "oh for **** sake here we go" hahahaha, it's all good though. Everyone in Melbourne has a short fuse at the moment i think. But ehh, **** happens
-
I'm not even going to comment about before 🤣🤣🤣
-
Wide Open Throttle from time to time does have a positive effect in breaking down carbon deposits that might have a oil ring or compression ring hanging up slightly. That is a known fact. Everybody's maintenance & driving style is different. Do your research 😉 Because i wasn't joking.
-
Depends on how it's driven, from time to time a good WOT loosens up the rings again & makes them seat properly 😉 But i'm relatively conservative, transmission has learnt my driving style considering it's adaptive learning strategy. No complaints
-
I think you mean Volkswagen 🤣🤣 Considering half the engines are from the VW junk parts bin. I always allow up to, but mine isn't burning anything noticeable. I can say though, switching to a 0w is a god send. It will shear down to a 30 weight over time so meh. How is everyone coping in lockdown ?
-
My apologies 😉 Still coming down off it's cold start idle, which on the 1MZ-FE i always thought was high, but hey... it's not "abnormal" for it to raise up to 1800rpm - 2000rpm then come down after 30 seconds roughly, improves heat up, which in turn reduces emissions, better oil pressure, less wear, etc
-
Actually wrong, all engines will burn the slightest amount of oil (crankcase vapour), and even by the book it's "up to X amount every X amount of k's" I can't remember exactly but mine doesn't burn anything noticeable, oh i actually mentioned it in a prior post 😉 Full Toyota service history MY05 2004 Toyota Avalon Grande. When i say full, i mean all the way back to 3km on the odo with every interval documented at Toyota & now me lol. One owner, elderly guy. I couldn't not buy it. All the extra cooling options part of the tow group has severly extended it's expected life span. Ticked over 237k the other day, doesn't drive like it Now running full synthetic fluids where applicable. Mobil 1 0w40 (and Toyota OEM filter) Penrite ATF full synthetic (also flushed the power steering rack/cooler), etc etc Upgraded the bulbs to phillips XtremeVision all round (+130%) massively improves light performance & colour) high, low & fogs Only thing it needs is D bushes & that's it. Otherwise there isn't a thing wrong with it apart from it not being driven, now i've been driving it, runs like a top Freezing air con too 🤣 Even the auto headlights work properly how they should be done (not how ford/gm of the time did) i run it on 98RON Because i choose to run all my cars on it, yes they do noticeably benefit from it (being a high compression engine 10.5:1), also having an adaptive ECU that tailors to octane rating (Ford had that on the Barra), Toyota had it on the first gen (Well Mark 1) Avalon. Either way, it kills EcoTec's gracefully & smoothly 🤣🤣🤣 Basically i only use OEM filters. Unless it's Mercedes where i worked for quite some time, then i just go Mann which manufactures them for Merc but sticks them in a Merc box lol.
-
I'm just taking the shank/tounge off i gather. The system is still there, i've got backup sensors sooo 🤣 I hate backup cameras, call me old school for preferring sensors. Well the Avalon actually was a suprisingly stout car when it came to towing, in terms of braked and unbraked towing capacity, etc. But i'm not going to be towing with it full stop. I have plenty tricks up my sleeve don't worry 😉
