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TommyM

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Everything posted by TommyM

  1. TommyM
    I just noticed the typo lol 🤣🤣🤣 Yeah i've had narva's in my VX Calais for years without any issue, the brightness is definitely noticable (with the avalon lights being far easier to change thankfully). I'll get my setup i have in it & call it a day. Parkers - Narva (Wedge type) "Artic Blue" - more a cool white Main Low Beam - Narva "Plus 150" (H4) Highbeam - Narva "Plus 100" (HB3) Fog Lights - Narva "Platinum Plus 130" (HB4) *Obviously the bulb types in my VX differ slightly but i have the same setup* Definitely notice the fog lights more so than anything. Is it worth the $350 for a complete overhaul ?, definitely.
  2. TommyM
    Off topic gentleman/ladies I'm having a slight issue at the moment, Mark 3 Avalon life ugh... I know they have impressive headlight performance compared to Ford & Holden of the time, but i'm wanting to change the bulbs over to a clearer/white look or straight LED I'm considering keeping it OEM halogen for ADR regulations, or should i just go to illumo and buy some LED's and have even better performance. Bulb prices are significantly different. But i'm more stuck on the Headlight is apparently a HB3 where other sources say H4, etc Judging by my owners manual it's HB3 for low beam, H4 for high beam, simple wedge bulbs for parkers. Can anybody clarify some stuff ? Unless i'm simply reading correctly 🤣🤣🤣 But i think i might get some higher quality halogens for obvious reasons (insurance & design) - LED's can screw you over
  3. TommyM
    I always drive safe, i'm just lead footed. Never speed, unless certain situations are required and unavoidable, rare but still.... I wasn't worried about what tires, i run 2 brands regardless (just depends on availability), tried others, they just didn't suit traction, braking performance, etc
  4. TommyM
    Hahahaha love the revised statement 😉 The GSV40's do have the ability to apply mild braking pressure to mitigate traction loss, they're a bit more up to spec compared to Ford & Holden just thinking "oh lets just cut power & retard timing massively to fix wheelspin" It's that bad your car feels like it's misfiring lol
  5. TommyM
    Not bad pricing either
  6. TommyM
    Turn off traction control 🤣🤣🤣
  7. TommyM
    Primacy 4's are pretty good, experienced them first hand. Pilot Sport 4's are more agressive i'm sure haha.
  8. TommyM
    On my 04' (MY05) Avalon Grande Currently running Continental UltraContact 6 (including the matching alloy spare) Stock setup was 205/65/R16, where as now i've improved handling slightly with the current setup which is 215/55/R16 Sits slightly lower, ever so slightly, speedo accuracy is actually improved funny enough.
  9. TommyM
    General topic of discussion on what tyres people are running on STOCK/OEM alloy wheels Discussion is applicable to basically every Camry/Aurion & Avalon from 2000 - Current Wether it be 16", 17", 18" or 19" rims, a true enthusiast won't run "no branded/cheapie tyres" If any non branded/respected tyres come into question, please don't comment 😁 Michelin, Continental, Toyo, Falken, etc etc all welcome. Include the size, aspect ratio & profile gentleman/ladies ! PLEASE BE CIVIL, KEEP IT FRIENDLY
  10. TommyM
    This is true 🤣🤣🤣 Others who viewed the thread might have learnt a thing or two lol
  11. TommyM
    Any help or advice is better than none at all 😁 Decided on Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0w40 Overkill, but hey.... it's my money lol
  12. TommyM
    Just a decent upgrade, i'm not chasing peak power, but the speakers factory are pretty below average, even my Calais had better factory subs 🤣 The head unit can easily drive another amp, keeping it within spec, it won't cause any issues running factory wiring. Only upgrading to 4ohm, etc you'll probably develop issues. Keeping in within spec you'll be fine.
  13. TommyM
    Only reason i asked is because i wanted to keep the stock amplifier, headunit, etc Hence why if they're 2ohm i'd want to keep them 2ohm, unless by wiring the rears with factory wiring would mean running 2 rear 4ohm speakers would tailor down to a 2ohm load, etc Which had the nav maps updated just last year (god Denso went overboard back then to still offer map updates on an old system that still works)
  14. TommyM
    If anybody knows too, all speakers in the Avalon are 2ohm correct ?, i know the sub is Just wanting to replace the factory ones with 2ohm replacements. If they're similar ohm's to the sub
  15. TommyM
    Well it's 4.5L w/out oil filter change 4.7L with oil filter change 5.5L Dry fill So a flat 5L if you let oil drain for 15 - 20min (enough time for a coffee), i chuck the full 5L jug in. Barely touches over full, realistically 200ml over won't hurt anything. And with 1MZ's you let them run for a minute or 2 then check the engine oil level. But knowing manufactures, they're never always true, my L67 took 5.5L before it touched the full mark, etc, that runs 0w40, only having just touched 110k, i don't plan on changing it. Well i did do some digging, what can i say 😝 Just wanted to clarify some things, get opinions, etc Oh btw that's a proven 300k miles, not km's (or roughly 480,000km Basically the TBN determines the grade of oil, higher TBN's not only cost more, but are superior at protection, neutralizing acidic deposits, etc. Kinda why i was considering a 0w30 or 0w40 simply because compared to 5w30's varying from 7.3 - 8.5, they're well over 10. Considering how much sulphur we have in our fuels, it better protects against deposits like that also 😁
  16. TommyM
    It is, hence why i was considering a 0w30 or 0w40, higher tbn's Toyota adjusted the oil visco for 1MZ's later on, so i'm simply tossing up options as to what is going to suit best based on how well it's kept after 234k on 5w30, etc Shell Helix Ultra with PurePlus (made of natural gas), i really was interested in considering it's apparently brilliant oil, great at cleaning, wear, etc
  17. TommyM
    Hey, it's up to you entirely, but the 1MZ's were built around the time of tight tolerances, pretty much most cars post 2010'ish have looser tolerances to "reduce" friction & "improve" fuel efficiency, personally i think it's an excuse to cut costs, but i'm relatively old school even though i'm 23 😁 The only 5w30 i've seen from penrite is non-hpr range (more the vantage, etc) - which in my opinion from experience are no where near as good. I know there is a HPR 0w30 & 0w40 Maybe try them ? I considered the 10 tenths racing 5w30 due to the high zinc content, but in saying that, the flashpoint was 30°C+ lower than comparable oils that had similar protection but higher flashpoint, TBN's were similar, etc Maybe try Valvoline SynPower 0w30 ? (Toyota/Ford spec), very high tbn of 10.1 Compared to other fourms i've been part of, i can say Toyota's fourm is definitely more knowledgeable, inviting, helpful & talkative so thanks !
  18. TommyM
    Yeah Nulon oils are great, especially those with MolyDTC, more slippery than a high zinc content oil, but not all nulon oils contain zinc as the main anti-wear package, where as i know the 5w30 doesn't, but 5w40, diesel 5w30 & a few others contain MolyDTC But Penrite's HPR range is near untouchable
  19. TommyM
    I'm just a nosey *****, just trying to familiarise myself with what to expect based on temperatures, etc etc Yeah analogue isn't a bad thing, you've got 2 speeds, low & high, depending on if A. The engine calls for the high speed cooling fan or B. The a/c system pressure gets above a certain threshold (mostly in summer where load is high & system pressures increase due to that extra load, i'm presuming) I mean.... running a 40 weight oil might not be that bad, personally i'd run a 0w40 if i decided to run a 40 weight, otherwise i'd just stick with the preferred 5w30. I'm still considering giving 0w40 a try, but not sure if i should considering it runs like silk still on 5w30. Having not owned a Toyota before now, just simply trying to understand more i guess, probably should get a workshop manual 😄
  20. TommyM
    Stupid question, does anybody know the default cooling fans strategy ?, i've been trying to find info, but nothing definitive has popped up. Cooling fan ON - @ what °C ? Cooling fan OFF - @ what °C ? A/C high pressure toggles high speed cooling fans at what kpa/psi, do the cooling fans vary in speed according to the A/C load, or simply have a low & high speed depending on system pressure. Cheers !
  21. TommyM
    Heat range, viscosity index, tbn, etc A high quality full synthetic 5w30 offers very comparable protection to a 5w40, in terms of flashpoint, etc Very negligible, the viscosity at 40°C & 100°C is what i go by. I know the old trick in the book is use thicker oil, but that just isn't necessary. Especially with basically newer engines (made after 2000). I'm considering a Valvoline Toyota specific 0w30 simply because the tbn, flashpoint, viscosity index, etc are fantastic Tbn is around 10.3 vs commonly 8.5 from Penrite, etc
  22. TommyM
    I wouldn't be running a 40 weight oil in a 1MZ, anything above a 30 weight then they tend to be a bit lethargic, 5w30 by the book Offers a more broad heat range over 10w30 & 15w40 5w30 i know is the preferred oil for 1MZ's, by Toyota. Unless you're ****** out oil, then i think you need some engine re-sealing lol
  23. TommyM
    With the revised PCV system, etc the only 1MZ's affected by sludge were 1996 - 2001 globally, revision basically rectified every 1MZ 2002 - end of production. Toyota made the oil changes to every 7500km not just for sludge, but to better protect owners long term, and the fact that Toyota went above and beyond to make maintenance simple/well planned, but every 7500km is perfect, even in a brand new car i would still change it every 7500km, but that's just me & the experience i have with varying engines. They made the 1MZ's to last with high quality oils, etc. Later 3.5's were more notorious for sludge over the 1MZ, for some reason...
  24. TommyM
    That's a very good question, it's a bit like the old Avalon, it was a pretty big seller in the states when it was new on the market, although it didn't really catch on here in Australia, as i mentioned, it's a really underappreciated car, because yes it has part relation to the Camry, but the wheelbase is longer, slightly wider, etc - by comparison i'd much rather have an Avalon with 4 airbags over a camry with 1, the 1MZ-FE was always bagged for sludging, but some have gone well in excess of 350k without a drop of sludge. which brings to my attention that people are selectively choosing to still change oil at 10,000km intervals with semi-synthetic oil, it's an age old question that 1MZ-FE's do last and are a lot less sludge prone using a full synthetic oil. Also, they have a standard service every 15,000km BUT,BUT,BUT there's an "interim" service that's in all 1MZ-FE owners manuals have oil changes stated every 7,500km (not 10k like i see people doing). But lucky for me, the previous owner was doing it every 6 months or 7,500km (whichever came first). But the majority of people never look, they only go off what's told to them, i'm aware that oils have changed since 2004, but the service intervals originally printed in the book, the dealership might say "next service in 10k km's", NO, simply NO, read the book, it says 7500km, so i plan on keeping it at 7500 km or 6 months (basically an interim service at 6 months & full service at 12 months). At least our Avalon got some of the old ES300 goodies which was fantastic, the Mark 3 Avalon had more of a Lexus-like rear end which really looked cleaner than Mark 1 & 2 models. I'm just stuck on wether to keep it on 5w30 or go to a 0w30 If you look at the images provided to any 1MZ-FE owner, the service intervals are 7500km, simple !
  25. TommyM
    I don't have a sludge issue so i'm not worried 🤣 The 3.5's in later Camry's are notorious for gelling/sludge. Good quality oil by the book 5w30 full synthetic or 10w30 alternatively but 5w30 they prefer long term, regardless of km's
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